Oil Pan, Dreaded oil Pan

[Anonymous]

So the last time I changed my oil I was not in the mood to do it myself (feeling lazy) so i took it to the local lube shop. Today was time for me to change again and so I proceeded to do my duty (not feeling lazy). After draining the oil I put the plug back in and it kept turning. I pulled the plug, and the threads on it were fine, so it was the threads on the pan that had stripped. Now I really don't want to have to get a new pan if I don't have to, are there any other viable options for me?

Learned my lesson about being lazy.
Thanks,
Jim
I have a 65 200

 

[66 Fastback]

Maybe I'm dreaming, but I thought I have seen oversize oil pan plugs and oil pan repair kits before. Short of that, I would use a washer and thread sealant. The washer sometimes allows you something to torque up against.

I found some oversized bolts listed under Dorman - Motormite products.
If link does not work, search on oil pan bolt. Not sure what size you need.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/ ... ry_list=:0
https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/ ... ry_list=:0

Doug

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Doug, I'll look into those.

 

[63comet]

I don't know if you have an Aubachons near you but if you do, they have a pretty good selection of oil plugs and oversized plugs in their bolt section.

 

[Anonymous]

The oversize plugs will be self tapping, so make sure you use a lot of grease on the threads to catch the filings. You don't need to jam up the gears in your oil pump!

I always use the "blow" side of the shop vac blowing into the oil filler hole when doing work to the oil pan, it works great for blowing pieces out while working on it.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

"its mega-maid...she's switched from suck to blow!!"

 

[mjpchief]

Before you force an oversized plug into the pan and ruin the threads forever check and see if the pan has a thread insert in it. I have found this in the past. If so you can take a tap the size of the threads and clean out the pan threads. What looks like stripped threads in the pan may be metal from the pan plug. The tap may clean out the threads in the pan so you can put a standard plug back in the hole.

Ford had the forsight to put a hardened thread insert in some of their pans to keep some quick change oil jockey from ruining the pan and they made the plug out of a softer metal so the plug would strip instead of the pan.

One of the first things my dad taught me was to clean off the oil pan plug and make sure you could run it in with your fingers before using a wrench on it.

If you use this method make sure you put grease on the tap before cleaning out the threads. This will keep the shavings from getting in the pan.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

you could also flush the pan out with some solvent (kerosene) leave the plug out and give it a splash through the oil fill, tap the hole and give it another good flush to get any shavings out.

 

[Anonymous]

Thank you all so much for your help, as I was able to solve it yesterday.
Jim

 

[Anonymous]

I was able to solve it yesterday.

Jim,

C'mon now, what was the fix?

 

[Anonymous]

I was able to solve it yesterday.

Jim,

C'mon now, what was the fix?

Sorry Linc!

Well I used the oversized self tapping bolt as recommended. But am now thinking that it is going to be a temporary solution. I'm thinking I should just see if I can get a pan from a Salvage yard.
What year did they switch from a front sump pan to a rear sump on the 200? I have the front sump, and want to give them the correct model years when calling for the part.
Jim

 

[Anonymous]

What year did they switch from a front sump pan to a rear sump on the 200? I have the front sump, and want to give them the correct model years when calling for the part.

Not sure, But I would say anything '77 or earlier.....'78 and later Fairmont/Granada/Mustang are all rear

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

all fox chassis cars are rear sump (single a-arm , struts, rack and pinion) and all falcon chassis cars are front sump (double a-arm, rear steer with linkage/gear)

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

I think it would be hard to do while still on the car but I ahve seen guys weld a nut onto oilpan over the hole and just thread bolt into the hole. Just make sure its welded all around so it doesnt leak.

 

[Anonymous]

8)

I think it would be hard to do while still on the car but I ahve seen guys weld a nut onto oilpan over the hole and just thread bolt into the hole. Just make sure its welded all around so it doesnt leak.

That sounds crazy enough to work!! I'll see if my welder friend would be willing to do that for me.

 

[Anonymous]

I think it would be hard to do while still on the car but I ahve seen guys weld a nut onto oilpan over the hole and just thread bolt into the hole. Just make sure its welded all around so it doesnt leak.

I have done that, too...but works better is a double female pipe thread coupler, like 3/8 NPT. Then you just thread in a regular pipe plug.

......OR...Just drill and tap the hole in the pan to 3/8 NPT! You can get a 3/8 NPT plug from any hardware store.

 

[Mercury Mike]

3 up 3 down where do you live? I have about.... 4 of those pans. =)

 

[Griny]

Here's my 2 cents,
If you're getting a different pan the why not first try to salvage the old one.
There should be enough metal left to thread an over size oil plug in.
A tap isn't that expensive and second just think of the warped leaky oil pan you might end up with? (not saying that your pans are leaky Wilhelmus! lol)
If not sure, maybe check out your local metal shop, they might do it for a few bucks.
Welding is an option but the surface has to be absolutely spotless and oil free... leaks are hard to see when just welded.
Good luck