oiling mods for performance 200?
- Thread starter mattri
- Start date
Not sure about this engine in particular, but I image if you have a good machinist who is familiar with the engine, they can clean up the passages and chamfer the holes in key places. At present I'm not aware of any hi-po oil pumps, but you should definetly get a baffled oil pan (FSPP) and maybe even an oil accumulator like this http://www.racenet.net/eng/canton-accu.php
These are pretty sweet and very good insurance against starvation and if you don't ever run your engien dry then you have a lot less to worry about. Get an oil temp guage, a thermostatic oil cooler, and run synthetic oil after breakin period and I'd say you are set.
These are pretty sweet and very good insurance against starvation and if you don't ever run your engien dry then you have a lot less to worry about. Get an oil temp guage, a thermostatic oil cooler, and run synthetic oil after breakin period and I'd say you are set.
Oh yeah, you can also add an oil pressure switch on your fuel pump that ground your coil and basically shuts the engine down if the oil gets below 7psi. Handy if you fail to notice. and only costs like $10.
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
One particular issue adressed by the Scheldjal brothers was the oil transfer slot in the back of the head( the one that feeds the rocker arms).
When you mill the head (0.060" or more) this slot is reduced. It's recomended that this hole be enlarged and polished.
I also "upgraded" the rocker arms by switching to a newer style shaft and stands with no pressure relief, this should direct more oil to the rocker arms.
Alex
When you mill the head (0.060" or more) this slot is reduced. It's recomended that this hole be enlarged and polished.
I also "upgraded" the rocker arms by switching to a newer style shaft and stands with no pressure relief, this should direct more oil to the rocker arms.
Alex
Howdy All:
My first thought was that more small Ford sixes expire from a broken rocker arm shaft than from bottom end failure. Within the design perameters, the 7 main bearing sixes are fairly bullet proof. High rpm use is outside of the original design focus. The 1.5:1 rod length to stroke ratio, relatively long crankshaft and cast pistons are more of a limitation than the oiling system.
The caution that Alex raised about maintaining the transfer slot in the milled head should go hand-in-hand with using the tapered head bolts that later model 200/250 used. These tapered bolts allow oil to travel up to the topend more easily. Cleanliness is critical to the top end. Running an 1/8" drill through both oil holes in each rocker is a cheap precaution too. On a rebuild it is critical to rod and clean all oil holes and passages.
I know of no high pressure or high flow oil pumps on the market for our sixes. I know of a very entertaining story of a close family member who sought higher pressure by shimming the oil pump bypass spring. It blew off the oil filter cannister- twice! What a mess!! We learn hard and sometimes we learn the hard way. A quality stock oil pump is quite sufficiant. Any oil pressure higher than needed steal horsepower too.
Using a larger capacity oil filter is cheap insurance given the low 4.5 quart capacity. A Wix 51773 filter (or similiar) increases the capacity to 5 quarts. A lighter weight oil and synthetics work better too.
Adios, David
My first thought was that more small Ford sixes expire from a broken rocker arm shaft than from bottom end failure. Within the design perameters, the 7 main bearing sixes are fairly bullet proof. High rpm use is outside of the original design focus. The 1.5:1 rod length to stroke ratio, relatively long crankshaft and cast pistons are more of a limitation than the oiling system.
The caution that Alex raised about maintaining the transfer slot in the milled head should go hand-in-hand with using the tapered head bolts that later model 200/250 used. These tapered bolts allow oil to travel up to the topend more easily. Cleanliness is critical to the top end. Running an 1/8" drill through both oil holes in each rocker is a cheap precaution too. On a rebuild it is critical to rod and clean all oil holes and passages.
I know of no high pressure or high flow oil pumps on the market for our sixes. I know of a very entertaining story of a close family member who sought higher pressure by shimming the oil pump bypass spring. It blew off the oil filter cannister- twice! What a mess!! We learn hard and sometimes we learn the hard way. A quality stock oil pump is quite sufficiant. Any oil pressure higher than needed steal horsepower too.
Using a larger capacity oil filter is cheap insurance given the low 4.5 quart capacity. A Wix 51773 filter (or similiar) increases the capacity to 5 quarts. A lighter weight oil and synthetics work better too.
Adios, David
David, that's interesting to hear your thoughts on the oil pump adequacy.
After seeing excess cam drive wear with new oil pumps (standard and high volume) fitted to "the other brand" six here, I ended up with the following ideas:
If we're spinning the motor a little faster than stock, we're pumping more oil. A pump that has not ingested any foreign matter should have nicely matched gears after 30-odd years of turning. The covers often wear in a little. Why not just machine the inside of the cover smooth, check the clearance and call it good?
It's one less part to buy, also. I think because of what happens to water pumps and fuel pumps, people see the oil pump as more fragile than it really is.
Regards, Adam.
After seeing excess cam drive wear with new oil pumps (standard and high volume) fitted to "the other brand" six here, I ended up with the following ideas:
If we're spinning the motor a little faster than stock, we're pumping more oil. A pump that has not ingested any foreign matter should have nicely matched gears after 30-odd years of turning. The covers often wear in a little. Why not just machine the inside of the cover smooth, check the clearance and call it good?
It's one less part to buy, also. I think because of what happens to water pumps and fuel pumps, people see the oil pump as more fragile than it really is.
Regards, Adam.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Heres some pictures to show what is being explained above 
The rocker arm stand shown on the right is the preferred stand that should be in the number 1 position on the rocker arm assy. It was used on the later engines and replaced the stand shown on the left that was used on the earlier engines.
Dont know what year they switched...of course it was whenever Ford finally ran out of the early stands...
A neat trick is to replace the Motorcraft FL-1A filter with a FL-299 filter which increasces your oil capacity from the stock 4.5 qts to a even 5 qts.
I used to have a picture showing the differeance between the head bolts but I cant find it...I'll take another one tomorrow...
And lastly you can invest in one of Mike's deep sump oil pans!
I have found referances in my Ford catalogs about a heavy duty oil pump for a 200 6. The part number is D1DZ-6600-A if you ever happen to come across a NOS one on ebay sometime.
Later,
Doug
The rocker arm stand shown on the right is the preferred stand that should be in the number 1 position on the rocker arm assy. It was used on the later engines and replaced the stand shown on the left that was used on the earlier engines.
Dont know what year they switched...of course it was whenever Ford finally ran out of the early stands...
A neat trick is to replace the Motorcraft FL-1A filter with a FL-299 filter which increasces your oil capacity from the stock 4.5 qts to a even 5 qts.
I used to have a picture showing the differeance between the head bolts but I cant find it...I'll take another one tomorrow...
And lastly you can invest in one of Mike's deep sump oil pans!
I have found referances in my Ford catalogs about a heavy duty oil pump for a 200 6. The part number is D1DZ-6600-A if you ever happen to come across a NOS one on ebay sometime.
Later,
Doug
Thanks for the replies. The valve train will be a roller assembly from FSPP, probably the 1.6. I would like the FSPP pan but at the moment the site says their out of them and I don't know when, if at all, they will be getting more. This is all just planning at the moment but the idea is for a 200 short bolck, minimum overbore, forged pistons, balanced of course, in the 9.5 compression range. Argie head, fully ported with either a 500 cfm 2bbl or a small 4bbl. I would like to be able to spin this pretty high and want to be thinking about oiling mods now. Any other ideas greatly appreciated.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Another good idea is to add a Ford's Factory Oil Cooler that they put on all 2.3 Turbo motors like in the T-bird Turbo Coupe or Merkur XR4ti.
Here's the web site:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OilCooler.htm
Here's the web site:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OilCooler.htm
A
Anonymous
Guest
high volume oil pump .
if you ever did open up a orginal oil pump, you wil see 2 strange wheels turning arround ,like a root blower inside, middle wheel is 4 sided, the outher wheel is 5 sided !
high volume oil pump, change the desing in middle 5 side and outer in 6 side.
made from titaan , verry light verry durable and verry pricie !!!!!!!!!!, and verry precies 0.01 M/M fitting.
thats what i did make !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
just change the wheels in the new design and you got a high volume oilpump. not blowing of the valve and real high pressure, not to high , just good enough for a performance engine.
i did go from 40"" to almost 60"" with changing the wheels .
in about 3 weeks i gone change my oil pan with the new design alu oilpan, cobra style with cooling ribs on the outside , with more gallon oil cappacity , i wil try then to open up the pump and make pic from the new design !
if you ever did open up a orginal oil pump, you wil see 2 strange wheels turning arround ,like a root blower inside, middle wheel is 4 sided, the outher wheel is 5 sided !
high volume oil pump, change the desing in middle 5 side and outer in 6 side.
made from titaan , verry light verry durable and verry pricie !!!!!!!!!!, and verry precies 0.01 M/M fitting.
thats what i did make !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
just change the wheels in the new design and you got a high volume oilpump. not blowing of the valve and real high pressure, not to high , just good enough for a performance engine.
i did go from 40"" to almost 60"" with changing the wheels .
in about 3 weeks i gone change my oil pan with the new design alu oilpan, cobra style with cooling ribs on the outside , with more gallon oil cappacity , i wil try then to open up the pump and make pic from the new design !
A
Anonymous
Guest
nope fspp are metal pans , these are alu !!
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
Harrie , do you mean like these....
?!?!?!??!
Alex
?!?!?!??!
Alex
What I have done for my turbo 200 besides the usual oil pan and windage tray tricks is to adapt a 250 oil pump by elongating the mounting holes and redrilling and threading new holes in the block. Oil passages between them need to be elongated to line up. Oil pump drives should be checked for length - sometimes they are a touch long. I have also carried this even further by using V8 big block high volume pump gears by pressing out the drive and pressing in the 200 drive and by making a spacer from an old pump housing the amount of the difference of the taller gears. The reason I need the extra flow is to support .001 extra clearance on the mains and rods to keep them from pinching at high loads. Also the turbo is using additional oil. Old blocks hemorrhage oil from the lifter borers that is part of the main oil galley. For this reason I run an oil line from the filtered side of an adapter to the rear of the block at the oil sender to feed pressure to both ends of the oil galley. I also run a line from the adapter to a separate non-bypassed filter to feed the turbo. Obviously the pick up needs to be modified for your pan, and the pan be dimpled to clear the pump body. These modifications may be excessive but they have held up to 7500 rpm na shift points and 537 boosted flywheel hp at 6800 rpm according to Does 10s ET hp link.
Jim
Jim
A
Anonymous
Guest
i,m making them myself like lots of other parts , check my website .
nice pump , got some more details ?
twentyover
Well-known member
Hey drag-
any chance we could talk you into doing a tech article and having Jack post it in the tech section?
any chance we could talk you into doing a tech article and having Jack post it in the tech section?
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
Harrie, that a Billet 460 V8 oil pump. I thought that's what you meant when you said it was very expensive.... 
Alex
Alex
MandarinaRacing
Famous Member
twentyover,
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I like to share things I have done if it will help give people ideas but most things I do are, as xtaxi says, on the "raggard edge" and I'd hate to have someone's oil pump fall off on my account.
Jim
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I like to share things I have done if it will help give people ideas but most things I do are, as xtaxi says, on the "raggard edge" and I'd hate to have someone's oil pump fall off on my account.
Jim
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