pictorial update 250 motor build

the pistons were a custom forged Al set form Ross Racing next to where I work in El Segundo, CA
according to my receipts they were $225 a slug. that's with ceramic TBC top, moly-lube on the skirts, chebby pins, total seal ring pack, spiro-locks, and pin fitting. It was the best price for what I wanted in a forged piston compared to all the other manufacturers out there.

so 225 x 6 = $1350

lets see and just in case the connecting rods are also custom pieces from Cunning ham Rods in Torrance, CA where the 110 and 91 fwys meet. they cost about $1350. they are ford on the big end and bronze bushed on the small end for full floating chebby pins.

I know it all sounds expensive but my goal here was indestructibility baring the possibility of me doing anything stoopid :wink:

Keep Sixn'
 
This motor is either going to fly like and eagle or blow up like the Hindenburg
The reason I went custom on the pistons was b/c I couldn't find an alternative that didn't involve taking too much material away from the block by over boring it. I wanted to remove as little as possible form the bores considering that this block had never been rebuilt before so I was starting with 3.680" bores
I have been saving for 6 yrs to do this right so I have the budget.

If I were braver I might have designed this build with a higher compression ratio that 8.7:1 something like 9:1 might have been better considering the aluminum head.

I get a lot of flack when I talk about prices but this is a balls to the wall daily driver and these motors aren't cheap to build. I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too :oops: :bang: there are more economical ways of doing this I know there are but I hope to never have to do this again lol.

Keep Sixn'
 
The machinist I work with calls it : Horsepower per cubic Dollar.

It' s encouraging to see a planned build with the details and costs necessary. 'Was wondering what dish volume the forged pistons have and is the block decked or piston compression height altered?...

Have Fun

Powerband
 
the dish volume is 16.3 cc's
and the pistons came in a little on the heavy side at 429.5 grams
I also lowered the compression height to 1.470" compared to the stock 1.51"
I am using full floating chevy pins and the con-rods are 6inches center to center

I am having a lot of fun and this project is finally winding down there are still a few hurdles:

-Megasquirt
-pulleys for the FEAD (Front End Accessory Drive)
-I also still haven't purchased a starter or an alternator
I would like to use a higher amperage internally regulated alternator but I am afraid for the wiring until I do some more research on exactly how to do it I am learning alot.

Keep Sixn'

Dan
 
Engine: Ford 250 cid L6:
+Block: bored and honed 0.030” over decked to 9.440”
+Pistons: Ross Racing Forged Al 8.7:1 Compression, Spiro-Locks, Full Floating Pins
+Crank: Turned 0.010 & 0.010 and Cryogenically Strengthened, Machined rear snout and rear main cap to accept 1 piece rear main seal from ’89 mustang 5.0.
+Rods: 6 inch C-c Cunningham 2 piece forged I-beam Bronze bushed for full floating Chevy pins
+Comp Cams: Dur @ 0.050
-Int:224° Exh:218° LSA: 115°
-Gross valve Lift:
-Int:0.494 Exh:0.447
+CI Al Head & Cast Al Intake:
-street / strip porting option 1.56” Exh Valve
-Viton seals
-64cc chamber
+Transmission: Ford Racing T-5 and associated Mcleod Industries Clutchery
+Rear end: 3.70:1 Detroit Tru-trac worm gear posi, 31 spline axles,
+Tires: 245/45/ZR17
+Turbo: Garrett GT3582R 1.06 A/R Turbine hsg with TiAl Waste gate and BOV
Fuel Injection will be mega squirt I am going to purchase an assembled unit this week and try it on the 200ci motor in the mustang right now just to cut my teeth on configuring and tuning w/o out a turbo then try to transfer that knowledge to the 250 ci and get it running right before I put it in the
 
it is a modified stock oil pan and the only one I had I looked EVERY WHERE and I couldn't find one finally I acquiesced and cut this one up
I've gotten comments from "ugly" to "great" to "gitter done" :lol:
a local muffler shop did it for me for about $80 another local oil pan "specialist" wanted a minimum of $400 to do it right with baffles and a windage tray but my short block wasn't ready at the time and it really didn't seem like a $400 job to me.
what with a (let's be generous here) $80-$100 Shop labor rates and good planning and cutting I didn't think it should take more than 1.5 hrs to 2 hrs max this isn't a race car either it's a street / strip daily driver that I intend to pounce on "occasionally" hence all the money spent on "high reliability" items like forged Al pistons and two piece forged Con Rods with floating pins. these improvements are for service life and durability not HP so I am partially working in years / dollar instead of Hp/ dollar which may be the wrong way depending on how you look at it but I am at peace with it :beer:
first he built the trapezoidal box on the bench using measurements
then he TIG welded the box to the uncut pan
then he cut the pan from the inside out
I don't have a crank scraper because I do not exactly know what the benefit is (Like really what is the benefit b/c I don't know :oops: )
I know that baffles and a windage tray would have been great but they were outside of my time / $$ line for the time being
True I have the budget but I think my money is better appropriate at the moment seeing as the head and the fuel injection are the last hurdles here.

I am also using the stock pick up so the bottom of the pan is now further from the face of the pick up (is this good or bad IDK) I guess I am fine so long as I keep the oil level up.
I might need to remove it to remove my dipstick tube not sure yet whether I want to use that dipstick hole for a dip stick tube, a turbo oil drain back line, or both.
removal of the pan may allow me some time to modify the pickup up if necessary and it will be easier now that the motor is out of the car hmmmmmmmmmm :hmmm:


we'll see what happens this weekend if the spirit moves me :wink:

Keep Sixn'

Dan
 
Dan,

Who are trying to kid? I've seen your build sheet and you've got fancier parts than I've got in my new build. That thing should fly or you've done something wrong or hurt it tuning it. What you need to do is to take your oil pan for a drive. I'm serious. Have a friend with a fast truck take your pan for a ride. Fill the pan with 6 quarts of water and do some serious hot rodding (water has about the same consistency as hot oil). After watching the water in the pan, you might rethink your plans on not using any baffles or gates to control oil slosh. You have too nice of an engine to wreck by poor oil control. You have to move your pick up to between 5/16" and no more than 3/8" off the bottom of the pan. Please get a second opinion on this measurement.

Your dip stick hole is way too small for your turbo oil return. Especially if it is on the other side of the engine. It should be about 5/8". Just bring it into the pan above the oil level. The higher, the better but not so high that it doesn't run downhill from the turbo. Also, it's better to have it between the throws of the crank if possible.

I see you picked a turbine AR. I think its a touch large, we'll see.

If you don't mind, this should be moved to the turbo section. I think more people will see and enjoy it there. (What do you think Dan and mods?)
 
drag-200stang":38fbvkbe said:
If you don't mind, this should be moved to the turbo section. I think more people will see and enjoy it there. (What do you think Dan and mods?)
Click to expand...
i agree, as he might get more tips such as the ones you just added

Dan, if you want it moved back, let me or another mod know
 
If you wish to move this thread else where I don't mind at all.

I agree that the more exposure this gets the more people can learn and share ideas it's very "glasnost" :D

Please tip away I welcome all your inputs

I will be removing my oil pan to modify the pick up now and figuring out the baffle / wind-age / scraper situation.
 
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