positioning a 250-6

[Anonymous]

Gentlemen,
Has anyone ever tried to install a 250-6 in a Falcon by positioning it back about 3/4"?
I now have a HD rad (2 1/4"thk) and a flat flex fan in my'65 to keep a modified 200-6 cool. The blades now clear the rad by 3/4". I measured my 250-6 and it is 5/8" longer (31" vs 30 3/8") at the water pump than my 200-6. The double crank pulleys are ok because they are the same 30" to the bell housing. The rad can't be moved foreward because of the frame crossmember.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, Hotrod Bill

 

[Anonymous]

get a pusher electeric fan and that should give you enuff room

 

[addo]

Bill, this is a curly one we came up against sometimes. Unfortunately, the exact solution may not work for a US block.

The OZ 250s have block mounts that look like small versions of the V8 jobbies. They are secured by a through bolt each side. For the early Falcons (like your '65), you could buy a set of "V8 conversion" engine mounts from Dellow Automotive in Sydney. They are no longer available - I checked. But they worked for the later sixes.

These paired flat plates bolted onto the shock tower bolt holes for the original mounts, and the idea was you lined up your block, and the through bolts slipped through these adapter plates, securing the unit. It didn't take much to figure you could move your motor back 1/2" this way, and pack out the extra space with washers.

If you can only fit the earlier style mounts to your block, you are likely stuck with making some offset plates for where they meet the body brackets. Either way, the aftermarket crossmembers should swallow up the difference at the rear.

This may have totally confused the issue! My essay on the 2V might offer some views of the Oz mounts, but not too clearly.

Regards, Adam.

 

[addo]

This is about the best image from my "essay". I hope it makes things a little less muddy!

 

[MustangSix]

Respositioning the engine is the easy part. The pain in the tail is all the other stuff. A 3/4" shove back would mean a change to radiator hoses, tranmission coolant lines, fule lines, transmission mount, driveshaft, shift linkages, throttle linkage, kickdown linkage, exhaust, and possibly the floorpan.

Relook that radiator mount and see if you can't simply move the radiator a bit. For example, instead of bolting the radiator on from the engine compartment side, can you move the radiator to bolt on from the grill side of the mount? It can be done on a Mustang by cutting two small slots at the top of the rad support and inserting the radiator mounts down thru them.

 

[Anonymous]

To answer all the people who helped me:
76 Maveric,
Not real wild about elect fans as I have one on my '32 - only as a last resort.
Addo:
Your picture gave me the idea to fabricate new engine mounts. I think it would be the easiest thing to do. For the trans ( I have a T-10 4 speed) all I have to do is drill another hole 3/4" forward in the leaf spring type mount.
Mustang Six:
No coolant lines or kickdown since I have a T-10, but I will have to slot the clutch linkage holes. Using diff carbs so I already have new linkage and fuel lines. Drive shaft sticks out 1 3/4" from trans so 3/4" shorter is ok. Wanted to do what you suggested about moving the rad to front of support, but on "65 Falcon rad would hit crossmember before it is low enough. Floor pan ok. Will have custom exhaust anyway.

Thanks for the help, Hotrod Bill

P.S. Mustang Six, Years ago I raced a Lotus 7A in SCCA.

 

[MustangSix]

Years ago I was actually svelte enough to fit in a real Lotus Seven!

 

[Anonymous]

All I did was take the spacer from the 200 (which is that 3/4" shorter" and just drill the center adapter bigger. Gave it the space I needed. Much less work than fabricating

Edit - this was in a mustang.... Not sure about the spacers on your fans.