Problems since elimination of Load o Matic, Pics

[60s Refugee]

I've been absent for a while. It wasn't from lack of tinkering though.

I converted the vac line to manifold vac. Here's a pic!

Here's another

Here's the fittings:

These pics don't show the Falcon carb. I also have the tripower linkage removed and the carbs blocked with a plate. Look closely and you can see the plate under A carb.

I also swapped center carbs. I rebuilt a hand choke 1100 from a Falcon and set it in the center to get ready for cold weather.

As some of you may remember, I have installed a DSII from a 78 Fairmont and was interested in completing the install with a manifold vacuum line.

So far my results have been unsatisfactory. After months of tuning carb, timing, eliminating the A & C carbs, etc, I have several problems. Currently the engine won't run or idle without the choke almost full on. It stumbles, hesitates, struggles to idle. It ran better with the vac line running to the carb! I'm at the point now that I can't determine any obvious solution. Could it be the advance curve springs? Maybe the vac advance isn't working. Maybe the tank fuel filter is clogged. I'm at my wits end.

Also, ever since I put the new engine in there has been an oil blow by issue. I leak losts of oil while running. It lays in the fins of the valve cover. It throws out a full quart in only about four hours of driving. I know you will have lifter noise with headers, but mine clatters off and on a great deal and just plain ticks if the oil goes to 1 quart low. I'm adding oil at about a quart a week.

I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic and the oil loss has been worse since then. I had been using Valvoline synthetic. I lost oil with it too, but not as bad. I've read that synthetic oils leak through everything but I just might hafta try Dino-oil again to see if it stops.

I have full compression in all cylinders. I have a rubber Fel Pro cover gasket and I check the bolts regularly for tightness. It looks like I lose some around the valve cover but it still looks like most of the loss is through the breather.

Any ideas?

Harry

 

[CoupeBoy]

Sounds like a huge vacuum leak. Do you have a vacuum creator tool (I know it has a real name but I don't know what it is) that you can test the vacuum modulator on the distributor.

And if you plug off the vacuum T that you put in does it idle better or worse?

I know that one of those vacuum lines goes to the distributor but where does the other one go?

FWIW, when we bought our last new car, I drove it for the first 30k miles to get everything broke in on dino oil, then changed to synthetic. I've been told that regular dino helps break things in faster.. of course your mileage may vary (YMMV)

-ron

 

[60s Refugee]

The other line goes top the automatic tranny modulator.

I must have vac OK cuz the tranny shifts fine.

I broke the engine in with dino oil. The engine lower end has 38,000 on it now, the new head set up about 8,000.

I did a suck- on- the- hose test just before the conversion and it was fine. I plan to pull the dizzy out this weekend and go over it again.

Harry

 

[aahsac]

I really think that you need to check for a vacuum leak. The fact that the host is still connected to the modulator and the xmission shifts fine isn't much of an indication of anything.

As I side note when we were at the dyno on Monday I asked the dyno operator, Jan, why he is still using carb cleaner (it might be brake cleaner) to find a vacuum leak, I've had good luck using an unlit propane or Maap gas torch. He said the gas method will work to detect a leak but spraying the fluid will tell you very specifically where the leak is. He has had no problems using this method on high end, very high performance cars.

 

[aahsac]

Refugee
Have you had a chance to put a vacuum gauge on it or anything?

 

[F15EagleE]

Hey 60s Refugee,
Ever get this sorted out? I am experiencing a very similar issue too with what seems to be a quart of oil blowing out the breather... Not sure how to proceed...

Thanks
-Glenn