Question about a rebuilt engine?

[Anonymous]

So I finally got the balancer bolt in today that was the only thing hanging my engine up.

and I was able to crank it over by hand with a breaker bar.....

It was very tight... I mean tight... I torqued the nut to 70lbs and it went a few more turns before the crank rotated. but I did make a complete rotation through the cycle and back to TDC on compression, and did get easier the second time around.

Here is the thing, I have never rotated a newly built engine before... but I am curious because it would rotate smoothly, then hang up. Crank the bar and it moves past the hang... smooth again then hangup, pass through and smooth again.

I know there are a lot of tight parts on a newly built engine...
but I am wondering if this sounds right? I would think it would have rotated a little smoother? am I crazy?

I was mostly listening to make sure the rockers clear the valve cover and to work a little oil into the cyls... and time the engine... all of which I did.

 

[Junk-Falcon]

did y

 

[Anonymous]

All of the plugs were in except number one... but they were all loose...

(could hear the compression coming out around... I was talking to my father and he said it was probably just the bottom and top of the stroke... he says a newly built engine like mine would get tight, he also says I worry too much....

 

[Falcon62]

Jimbo - A new engine is tight, try removing all the plugs and pulling it through that way. Should be a lot easier. 8)

 

[CobraSix]

If the plugs on in, even not tight, it will make it tougher.

COnsider putting some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders before you fire, that will give some lubrication before the oil pump catchs up.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Actually I found the best thing a couple of days ago...

I bought the Guide to Rebuilding Small Block Fords a few months back before I tore the engine apart... and I read it, but not all of it.
What a great book I read through the last couple of chapters last night and it gave me some great tips on assembly and break-in....

Like:

1. Remove all the plugs and crank the engine over a few times prior to starting. This will move oil through the cyls, prime the carb and fill the bowls. It also loosens things a bit.
2. Open the lower drain on the radiator and run a hose in the top setting the water to match the drain rate and thus keeping fresh cool water in the radiator during the 30 minute break-in. Since the car will be sitting and heat will be high with the new parts and the added friction.

I thought about the Marvel mystery oil.. but I primed the oil system really well with a drill and got flow through a hand crank... and I did not find any Marvel Mystery oil yet.... not sure where to get it? or how to get it in the cyls... my only access is the spark plugs now.

I will remove them all tomorrow and give it another couple of runs...


I do have an aditional question about timing....
I am running a DII setup, and I set the engine on -10BTDC that put the rotor right on the number one position... I was attempting to do a static timing making sure the rotor tang was inline with the magnetic post and according to the book the rotor should be between the rivets for correct advance... mine lines up right with the pickup. I have to rotate the dizzy towards the drivers fender to get the rotor between the rivets. then the tang does not line up.... does it sound like I am one tooth off...? does to me.. I am thinking I need to be one more tooth counterclockwise... I think I am on number one at -10bBTDC... am I making sense to someone? the thing is that little rotation from 0 to -10 does not move the rotor that much at all? it is pretty close to number one in that whole range.. so the can position is the major factor right?

(Still learning)

Always