Quick question on removing pistons from rods



How do you do it?

I know the 200 used the typical Ford press fit pins. What are the ways youz guys get the pistons off the pins.

I am hoping to have the engine out Wensday or Thursday. Its supposed to be partly sunny and 55 and I will have help.

I want to disassemble it and inspect it, polish the rods, remove burrs, casting seams and such before I have it rebuilt.

Thanks for any info.
It's a simple three step process:

1. hand the old pistons, rods, and new pistons to your machinist;
2. tell him to change them;
3. pay him about $6 each to do it.

It requires a press and some dies that you probably don't want to buy unless you are doing a LOT of engines.
Just like Jack said,
but you will have to have the pistons pressed off then take the rods home, polish, then return to mach. to press on new pistons. If your are going to go to ARP rod bolts the best time to changed and have rod resized is when the pistons are off.

Have you polished rods before?

Just some 2.3L rods for my first 79 2.3L . My dad showed me how to do it.

Just gonna remove casting lines and polish the beams and lighten the rods. Whole assemble is to be custom balanced when engine is built.

I was thinking that was what you were gonna say. Didnt know of any other way to get them off.
Pardon an Old F**T, didn't want to step on your toes, :oops: but I've seen first timers who ground/ polished crosswise rather than lengthwise and/ or took off way more than needed, others who had rods resized then changed rod bolts. :cry:
I would rather take a chance on hurting your feelings than let you hurt yourself, car, pocketbook, etc ;)

Believe me no offense taken. I am glad for the reminders and pointers.

I have read that grinding cross ways is more harmful than leaving the rod stock.

BTW I have big toes so step away. Just dont get the necessary ones I need for balance. :D

By removing casting lines and polishing the rod LENGTHWISE you are removing any potential areas for cracks and relieving stress. Means the rod should be able to handle more stress before failure occurs.
The engineer term is "stress riser", a point where stress concentrates leading to failure usually a fault in material or design.
The casting marks and other surface flaws are stress risers, A properly "polished" rod is 30 - 40% stronger than the rod was orginally.
Have you ever watched someone cut glass? the mark, scratch, made with the glass cutter is a stress riser and when the glass is flexed all stress is concentrated in that scratch and the glass snaps. A controlled structural failure.
Bad design, the square windows in the Brit's first jet passenger plane. The square corners in some fiberglas dually fenders.