Rebuild Questions?

[Anonymous]

Hello, fairly new to this forum. I am in the process of rebuilding the 200 in our 65 Mustang. I have scoured this forum and gained a HUGE amount of information, so I thank all the contributers. I will try an be specfic as to what I need.

The machine shop told me the head is toast (Cracks) so I located a 78' 250 Head. I am gettting a 3 angle valve job, 1.75 & 1.5 Vavles, hardened seats, etc. I am getting .060 Cast Aluminum Dish Pistons, 264 Cam, dual roller timing chain, hi-po balancer, having the block zero decked, and .060" off the head. I am putting on a header and a Weber 38cfm.

The questions I have are as follows:

1) The engine kit I am getting comes with new chrome moly push rods. Are the pushrods different on the 250 head vs the 200?

2) What Distributer should I get? Rather than buy a new stock one and put on the Petronix, I would rather just buy a nice hi-end new model. Any suggestions?

3) Does anyone make a hi-performance water pump for the 200?

4) Does anyone make a hi-performance oil pump for the 200?

Thank for the help!

Mark

 

[Anonymous]

i think the answer to the water and oil pumps are no

the rest...guys?

btw...you did the rest right...with the 78+ head and 3 angle...nice!!!

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Mark,

1) Don't go with .060" over pistons. Maximum bore won't increase power and will only bring out cooling issues due to higher heat transfer from a thin cylinder wall. If the cylinders will clean up with a .030" cut then stop there.

2) Water pumps on post '78 models with air conditioning are slightly higher volume and can be bought new in aluminum from AutoZone. The downside is that they need to use a later model puller to mantain belt alignment.

3) Melling is the only oil pump manufacturer for the 200. All the other bands are re-boxed Melling pumps. These supply adequate volume/pressure for almost any application.

4) Consider mounting the Weber carb directly to the head and avoid an adapter.

5) New distributors are not available, but you can upgrade to a DuraSpark II unit from a post '76 model 200. You can wire these very simply with the stock Ford module, a GM 4 pin module, an MSD, Crane, or almost any other ignition system.

6) You will use 200 pushrods with the 250 head. You will want an adjustable rocker arm shaft however, especially when decking the block and milling the head. A rebuilt unit is available from www.rockerarms.com

7) Use a bottoming tap to chase the head bolt threads. You will also want to use some hardened washers under the head bolts to keep the head bolts from bottoming out.

 

[Anonymous]

see....much better answers than I could have given

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks John.

1) Yes the machinist said I could just do a .030" over and your justification makes sence.

2) Think I'll just stick with a new OEM replacement

3) So I belive what you are saying, is no matter who I buy a NEW oil pump from, it will be a stock unit made by Melling? I looked at their web site and they don't have one listed for the 200, but I have seen them offered through other distributers.

4) Doesn't the 250 head have a bigger intake to it? Will the Weber mount right to it, or do I still need an adapter?

5) I'll have to check into that

6) Isn't the stock setup on the 250 head already an adjustable unit? Any idea which part# I would want from www.rockerarms.com ?

7) Great idea.

Again, thanks for the support.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back Mark and All:

John's advice is right on.

The '78 200 and 250 heads are identical. Both will have a 1.75" carb hole. Your stock '65 head has a carb hole of 1.5". John is suggesting that you have your '78 head carb pad milled off, creating a flat surface with a larger oval hole. To which you will mount a flat piece of aluminum stock as an adapter to mount the H/W. This will greatly increase the efficiency of the intake.

No, the 250 head is not adjustible. It again is identical to the '78 200 rocker arm. The push rods need to be specific to the adjustible rocker arms. Be sure to thoroughly dissassemble and clean all passages in the shaft and the rockers. Be sure that your machinist re-establishes the oil transfer slot on the head deck surface after milling. It is a kidney shaped depression near the back of the head.

Have you run a CR ratio check with this much machining? What is your goal CR? I'm assuming you'll be using a composite head gasket? If you haven't already, click on our website below my signature and go the the Compression ratio Calculator. It's fun and easy to use.

The standard replacement water pump is sufficient, unless you plan to run AC in a hot locale. The AC water pumps do move more water, but they also eat up a few hp to move the extra water.

Consider the added step and expense of balancing the rotating and reciprocating masses. You didn't mention what trans or gearing you'll be using in the '65 Mustang, but it's likely you'll be turning some revs. A good balance job will be worth while.

Enjoy the journey.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

John is suggesting that you have your '78 head carb pad milled off, creating a flat surface with a larger oval hole. To which you will mount a flat piece of aluminum stock as an adapter to mount the H/W. This will greatly increase the efficiency of the intake.

Couldn't have said it better myself.

"F-44" is Rocker Arm Specialty's part number for the adjustable shaft. And if memory serves "PR-13" is Melling's part number for the correct pushrods.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks, you guys are awesome!

 

[mugsy]

I recently had a motor rebuilt . It was a '66 block and I used a '77 Granada 250 head. I too had the block cut for "zero" deck (about 0.030) off. Then using the Faclon 6 web site's compression calculator I basically "backed in" to the CC's on the cylinder head based on a composite gasket. Please do yourself a favor and see if the machine shop can cut your heads to a specific combustion chamber volume versus a generic "0.060" off . I found a place that let me CC the head while it was in the mill . Remember, if too much it cut then its a real chore to add metal!!! :x

Mugsy

 

[Anonymous]

I used the compression calculator, determined the combustion chamber volume in CCs, CCed my head and converted the difference into inches (thousandths to be removed). Wrote all the calculations down on a print out of the compression calculator results and gave it to the machine shop (L&R Engine). They really appreciated the data. They also rechecked everything and let me know that my calcs were right on.

 

[mugsy]

Rag-man,

It has been awhile and I am going from my poor memory..... I had the machine shop take 0.040 off (that is for sure) to get to the 52 cc (I think) volume, or maybe it was 56 cc... whatever!... but as you pointed out, make sure the amount removed is based on "SOMETHING" and not just a SWAG!

tanx,
Mugsy