recommendations of good carbs, please.

[StraightSixer]

How's everyone doing? well I have a stock 200 and I need a new carb. The old autolite is leaking fluid, has actually squirted out enormous quantities of fuel with the engine off and the accl. pedal released and is just tired condition. Which brings me to my query, what carburetor would be best for my little six? I would like some performance, since my old carb not only gave me terrible mileage but pathetic accleration. I also plan on adding some clifford headers and taking the old head to the machine shop for some work.(my exhaust ports and manifold are warped and the manifold gasket is broken) I've read good things about weber carbs, but some input would be greatly appreciated. Also any other suggestions would be helpful. 8)

-JC

 

[Anonymous]

i like my autolite 1100

easy to adjust

I heard webers and holley are hard to adjust

 

[cfmustang]

So far, I like my Weber 38. It is a progressive two barrel so it only uses the one ventri until you step on the gas and then the secondary opens up. In theory, if your easy on the pedel, the milage shouldn't be too bad.

I, on the other hand, have a heavy right foot.

 

[Anonymous]

quick question..do you need to remove the head to enlarge the carb opening to 1.75?

I wanna go to bigger 2 barrel carb but dont wanna remove head to open he rup

 

[barishiman]

If you are going all the trouble to update your head, then why not upgrade the carb to a 2 brl. I have the 2 brl Holley/Weber 5200 from Stovebolt. Its a great carb once you tweak everything out. So far I have luck and you sure can feel that carb at full throtle.

But if you want to stay with the 1 brl, then I suggest an Autolite 1100 from Pony Carbs. http://www.ponycarburetors.com/. I had one of their Autolite 1100s and it lasted 3 years before the carb finally gave up. They are rebuilt carbs, but they fix the factory errors. That carb lasted a good while as being my daily driver for high school and college. But you won't get the performance as a 2 brl.

My 2 cents.

 

[Anonymous]

If you are going all the trouble to update your head, then why not upgrade the carb to a 2 brl. I have the 2 brl Holley/Weber 5200 from Stovebolt. Its a great carb once you tweak everything out. So far I have luck and you sure can feel that carb at full throtle.

But if you want to stay with the 1 brl, then I suggest an Autolite 1100 from Pony Carbs. http://www.ponycarburetors.com/. I had one of their Autolite 1100s and it lasted 3 years before the carb finally gave up. They are rebuilt carbs, but they fix the factory errors. That carb lasted a good while as being my daily driver for high school and college. But you won't get the performance as a 2 brl.

My 2 cents.

I installed the Holley/Weber 5200 last month, so far I really like it, haven't driven it a whole lot since I've been so busy with college. Good performance for a good price.

 

[cfmustang]

Do you have to open it up? No. The Weber adapter will bolt right on without hogging out the opening.

Should you? Probably. I don't think you'll get the full advantage with the stock opening, but it still will be an improvement.

 

[Anonymous]

and you need to remove the head to hog it out...right?

dont want metal flakes into engine.....

 

[cfmustang]

Don't know. I had mine done when I was having other head work done. Someone else out there might know how to do it without removing the head, but I don't know of a way.

 

[CobraSix]

Why not try a Carter YF from a 300 ci? they will require a later 200/250 head with the learger 1V opening. It flows like 190 CFM IIRC, which is almost perfect for a stock 200.

Slade

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy JC:

Your stock 200 Autolite 1100 flows 185 CFM. They are easy to rebuild and unless it is badly warped or the throttle shaft holes too loose, a rebuild can be miraculous. Another option is an Autolite 1101 from the '69 250 engine. It will be a true bolt up with stock linkage and air cleaner. It is rated to flow 215 cfm.

The H?W will require an adaptor, cable linkage and a different air cleaner setup.

If you want to open your log without removing the head, carefully stuff oil soaked rags into the log in both directions and cover the bottom. When you're done grinding, carefully pull out the rags and all metal shavings. Then dawb the hole area with a brush dipped in vaseline to do a final pick/clean up. Clean as much of the grease and oil out as possible, but don't be surprised at a little extra smoke at first engine warmup.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

wow!!!

I might just do that!!!!

 

[Anonymous]

I've been thinking to upgrade my Autolite 1100 as well. I only want to go with a bolt-on solution though. I figure if I ever want to do more someday I'll get an AUS head and go crazy but for now I am wondering also what the best options are considering I only want to do the bolt-on route at this time. As I understand it I can do these options (I have a 67 Mustang with a 200):

Clifford 08-K-200 3 5/8"Weber 38-38- carb kit
This one seems to include everything (I think). Does anyone have experience with this? I am concerned about the linkage more than anything I think. Also what do you need to do with the heater hose that goes through the stock carb mount? I read something about just running a bypass somewhere?

The other two options appear to employ using the Holley adapter from Clifford to run either an Autolite 2100 (which CFM?) or a Holley 2300 350CFM. I don't see any linkage kits for this option? Also what open element air filters can you use with this?

I would like to upgrade to a header as well. I am also interested if there are any hood clearance issue with any of these options?

So if any of you guys have anything to pass along on these options I would appreciate it. I plan to call Clifford for some guidance but any real world experience would be really helpful. This would be my first foray into something this mechanical by myself. Lastly I am curious which header is recommended for each option.

Oh yeah and my main concerns are increased performance and for it to be reliable. Economy takes the back seat on this one. This is one of my daily driver cars that I want a little more umph with, something that I will notice hopefully.

Joe

 

[Asa]

If you want to open your log without removing the head, carefully stuff oil soaked rags into the log in both directions and cover the bottom. When you're done grinding, carefully pull out the rags and all metal shavings. Then dawb the hole area with a brush dipped in vaseline to do a final pick/clean up. Clean as much of the grease and oil out as possible, but don't be surprised at a little extra smoke at first engine warmup.

Adios, David

why not wrap some magnets up in the rags as well? just make sure they are good and strong ones or they won't hold through the rags

 

[michael_cini]

[/quote] I installed the Holley/Weber 5200 last month, so far I really like it, haven't driven it a whole lot since I've been so busy with college. Good performance for a good price.[/quote]

where did you get the 5200? and how much was it? it is the progressive, right?

 

[michael_cini]

So far, I like my Weber 38. It is a progressive two barrel so it only uses the one ventri until you step on the gas and then the secondary opens up. In theory, if your easy on the pedel, the milage shouldn't be too bad.

I, on the other hand, have a heavy right foot.

is the 38 series weber a progressive? from what i read it says its a 'synchronous-opening model.' i was under the impression that the 32/36 weber was the progessive, is the 32/36 the same as a 5200?

 

[Anonymous]

Does anyone know of the weber they had at cliffords. Its a weber 44 idf 71. From what i can remember its was like a 530 cfm carb that was supposed to be put on porsches, but with an adapter plate it is supposed to fit our sixes. Anyone have this? I found the specs and stuff from carbsunlimited.com

 

[cfmustang]

Ugh, you may be right...

Now I need to double check the paperwork on my carb when I get home. I may have the 32/36 (I bought it 10 years ago)...

 

[Anonymous]

I found this somewhere on the web. Not sure if its accurate but from the sound of it the 5200 likely is the 32/36 pretty much: "The Holley 5200 was a license built copy of the Weber 32/36 DFAV 2 barrel (2 venturi) carburetor. This carb was also produced by Motorcraft under license."

 

[Anonymous]

"Making The Right Choice 32/36mm Progressive or 38mm Synchronous":

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Aplica ... ice_32.htm