Removing log intake end plugs

[Lagniappe]

I've been reviewing the Ford Six Performance Handbook, and in the Porting section I saw the recommendation to pull the intake manifold end plugs to work the outboard intake ports.

I've done the search here, but haven't seen anyone write about having done this, and if replacement plugs are difficult to source. I'm considering working a head over to remove casting flashing and do a conservative bit of porting and polishing. It makes sense to pull the plugs but I'd like to know before hand that I could get a set that would fit properly when I'm done.

Has anyone done this, any tips, and what plugs did you use to close up the log when you were done? Was it really helpful?

Thanks!

 

[CZLN6]

HOwdy Lagniappe:

My machinist found the replacement end plugs for me. BUt I will also say that the return for the effort is small. I was able to round and smooth the turn from the log to the port or inside radius. We also looked at creating a diverter plug that would be inserted into the end of the log to direct flow down and into the port. We gave up on that idea. We also looked at cutting off the end of the log and welding on a plate to direct flow into the port. This was doable, but we decided to pass on it for a number of reasons- time, comparison testing to validate its worth. An undenyable plus for this procedure would be access to the down angled port. Anyway, it didn't happen.

I can't tell you how effective this effort is because I had no before-and-after comparison and this was only one of many changes that happened all at once.

The greatest return for you porting efforts will be within an inch or two of the valve seat.

Sorry, not much help.

Adios, David

 

[rbohm]

if you do decide to remove the plugs at the ends of the log, and you cant find replacement plugs, then just tap the ends and use pipe plugs. they are readily available in a variety of sizes.

 

[CNC-Dude]

HOwdy Lagniappe:

My machinist found the replacement end plugs for me. BUt I will also say that the return for the effort is small. I was able to round and smooth the turn from the log to the port or inside radius. We also looked at creating a diverter plug that would be inserted into the end of the log to direct flow down and into the port. We gave up on that idea. We also looked at cutting off the end of the log and welding on a plate to direct flow into the port. This was doable, but we decided to pass on it for a number of reasons- time, comparison testing to validate its worth. An undenyable plus for this procedure would be access to the down angled port. Anyway, it didn't happen.

I can't tell you how effective this effort is because I had no before-and-after comparison and this was only one of many changes that happened all at once.

The greatest return for you porting efforts will be within an inch or two of the valve seat.

Sorry, not much help.

Adios, David

I agree! A lot of work for little or no gain.

 

[Lagniappe]

David, rbohm and CNC-Dude,

Those comments were a lot of help. I'd rather focus on areas where the effort expended produces commensurate gains. You guys saved me some time on the project. Thanks!

 

[chad]

the Classic InLines.com flow charts ("Flow Test") for the AZ cross flow, lrg and sm log heads, etc were helpful to me for real world data and choices ($. time).
have a look on that page or the others~

 

[JackFish]

If I were to do it all over again I would only pocket port the valve bowls.
Anything more and you'll get diminishing returns on your dollar spent.

In fact I have a Chevy LT1 in the shop right now and along with a 3-angle valve job it's getting only pocket porting.

 

[Econoline]

I knock out mine before tanking. They're standard plugs, easy to get anywhere. It's good for eyeballing any flash if nothing else. You'd knock them all out of the block before a dip why not the head?

 

[JackFish]

I knock out mine before tanking. They're standard plugs, easy to get anywhere. It's good for eyeballing any flash if nothing else. You'd knock them all out of the block before a dip why not the head?

Because no coolant or water or combusted gas flows through it to plug it up with rust and carbon.