All Small Six Log intake modification ideas. Made, started and running

[gb500]

Is that rectangular box going to sit on top of the log?
And feed thru orig inlet hole?


In my mind...with a single two barrel , I allways thought/ schemed about welding the rectangular channel to the side of the log., grinding out a rectangular hole into the log and closing off the orig single carb hole on top.( And close outer end of the channel with a plate ( obviously)
And mounting carb on the channel,

That way the carb sits lower, you aren't bound by orig carb hole restriction and get a bit of a inlet 'runner' in to the log

May need a heat shield under carb/ over exh


Sort of like my CAD model sketch

 

[funkaholik]

Sort of like my CAD model sketch

Which CAD program are you using there?

Just kidding. Seriously though, I like the idea of a pre-plenum antechamber to aid in a homogenous mixture.

 

[gb500]

Which CAD program are you using there?

Just kidding. Seriously though, I like the idea of a pre-plenum antechamber to aid in a homogenous mixture.

Crayon Aided Drawing

 

[DON]

How about doing that box on the side, then a side draft carb? No hood clearance problem

 

[ActionYobbo]

I added some pictures to post 20.

I don’t know if I will do 3 holes or just 2. The original spot is blocked off but I have been thinking if I should put a 1/2 or 3/4 inch hole there as an equalizer. Thoughts?

 

[aussie7mains]

Just an opinion here, but the objective in trying to improve on the "log head" is to reduce the number of restrictions to airflow. this means reducing the number of changes in direction, 90 degree bends are about as bad as it gets. Ive seen a few logs done where 3 holes have been cut into the side of the log and 3 sidedraft carbs have been fitted, this helps but isnt necessarily best. Best would be to cut the log off altogether and start with a new flange to come up with something like the 2v head, alas this is a big job beyond most backyarders. One thing to remember is that each cylinder needs to "see" a less restricted path and this means a decent sized carb, the stock 1 barrel is way too small so something bigger like a two barrel weber is needed, however just sitting an adapter on the single hole isnt going to get you there. just some thoughts.

 

[Engine Fan]

I added some pictures to post 20.

I don’t know if I will do 3 holes or just 2. The original spot is blocked off but I have been thinking if I should put a 1/2 or 3/4 inch hole there as an equalizer. Thoughts?View attachment 25561View attachment 25562

I would try it as is. Nice to see some fabrication. Looks good.

 

[Kritas]

Just an opinion here, but the objective in trying to improve on the "log head" is to reduce the number of restrictions to airflow. this means reducing the number of changes in direction, 90 degree bends are about as bad as it gets.

I believe this to be true. When I bought my TR6, dual downdraft Webers were mounted in place of the stock side draft Strombergs. While some people see the Webers as upgrade, I do not for a few reasons. The additional 90-degree angles created for airflow is one of them. Gas also tends to puddle in the lower bend if the carbs are not tuned perfectly.

When I posted this picture in a Mustang group on Facebook to answer a question as to the height of a 32/36 with the air cleaner, a response from one individual was to muse whether the Triumph adapters could be used to fit Webers to our log intakes. I wouldn't do it personally, as it adds two more 90-degree bends to the airflow. Now, whether side-draft carbs could be adapted to our log intakes is another matter for discussion, although I'm sure that has been done. That would avoid harsh bends and provide hood clearance.

 

[ActionYobbo]

Finished and tested. So far it’s looking good. I rebuilt the 2100 carburetor so it was at base settings. Last weekend I put the rebuilt motor in and started hooking everything up. This weekend I put the manifold and carburetor on and hooked up all the hoses etc put in a battery and it gave it a few shots of start you bastard and started first go. Set the idle and set the timing let it run for a few minutes gave it a few pokes and it seemed to like it then shut it off and got in the storm shelter.
Next step is a tune up and a test drive. I am waiting on payday so I can get an afr gauge to make it easier to get it running good. I have also rebuilt the green dot C4 so there might be a bit of trans tuning to be done. I never had a green dot before so it might be getting a valve body swap.

 

[ActionYobbo]

Working good so far. Need to do a long drive and get some mpg worked out.
It feels to have a lot more pep and better pulling power.
The motor is a stock 200 from a 71 maverick that had a leaking head gasket. I just refreshed it with a bore hone to remove some pitting on 3 and 4. Used the old pistons and rings. I shaved the deck 5thou to get rid of the low area between 3 and 4. New standard crank and rod bearings and new timing chain. lapped the valves. Electronic ignition and the .98 2100 carburetor. So noting fancy.

That was yesterday. Today it’s a different story. After yesterday’s stellar performance I got in it this morning to do a quick drive to the gas station and it would not start. It popped and chugged a few times but no go. So after a few hours of trying to figure out what was wrong I think the power valve is dumping fuel. I disconnected the fuel line and drained the fuel out of the carburetor and I can get it to start and run just on starting fluid. I rebuilt that carburetor with a walker kit for this build .I will pull the power valve and check it and rebuild the carburetor sometime this week and hopefully be driving next weekend.

 

[ActionYobbo]

Well it’s some bad news. I have no compression on #2. There is rubble in #1 and #4. I can’t see a hole in the piston or anything like cracks. Could have dropped a valve seat. Pushing this one off to the side for a while. It’s sucked up too much time now and I need to get my wife’s mercury comet back on the road.