Replacement Head

[CrashBob]

I am going to have to replace the head on my '65 200 because the rear exhaust flange ear is missing, 3 bolts are broken off and the threads are wallered out in the front bolt hole.
Money IS an object.

1: Which stock head would be compatible?
2: Does anyone here have a decent (rebuildable) head for sale?
3: Where would be a good place to shop for a rebuilt?

CrashBob, poor wannabe mechanic

 

[mach1 mark]

I'm confused, the bolts are broken off? why do you need a new head. I know $$$ is an issue., but I would buy one of the new Classic in-liners aluminium head. After you spend $200-$300 on a used head, $200 on machine work and more on valves and springs, just buy Mike's. Just an opinion

. Maybe someone can chime in to help you keep the old head and just fix your bolt problem, but we would need more info.

 

[JackFish]

I was able to pull a '78 head off a fairmont for $35.
That included just about everything that was attached to it that I could carry, carb, exmanifold, pushrods lifters, aircleaner, etc.

 

[CoupeBoy]

I agree with both Jackfish and Mark. It really depends on how you want to proceed. You could use a large washer on the backside of the broken off ear on your head. You could use bolt extractors to get your broken bolts out. You could drill and heli-coil the 'wallered out' hole. Then again you could go to a wrecking yard (one that guarentees good parts) and buy a complete head from a newer motor ('73-83, I paid $50 for one) and then I paid another $60 to have it steam cleaned and checked for cracks. Then after a little measureing on your part (piston dome, how far down is the piston from the top of the block, how thick is your next head gasket) you could have it 'milled' to make up for lost compression. So long as none of the valves are burnt you could possibly get away with just putting in new valve stem seal and reassembling. I live in a very rural area and we actually have an old valve grinder and a seat grinding stone so I've never paid for a valve job, no clue on actual price or value.

It comes down to replacement parts availability, your timeline, your skillset, and how much you really want to work on it. I see these situations as an opportunity to learn. You could try and fix your head first all you need is a drill, a few bits, an easy out set, and a heli-coil installation kit (even if you had to buy everything it should be around $55) and if it works out that's great, and if it doesn't you really should have a drill and easy out kit onhand anyhow, so you aren't really out that much.

-ron

 

[Bort62]

I got a junkyard head from a '78 fairmont for 40$ and spent like 80$ having it milled. I replaced two of the valves and replaced the valve guide seals.

I lapped all the valves in, and it works great.

Total cost was probably about 150 $

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Bob and All:

"Money IS an object."
A- this is always a balancing act. Many times using what you have and modifying, repairing or getting along is the cheapest way to go. Too much dinking around and it not only gets spendy, but become a nuisance. IF you have to take off the head to extract the broken bolts, your car will be down for the durations. You will likely need a valve job gasket kit at about $50.00. As long as you have the head off you might as well grind the valve seats and install new seals. you will need to have it milled to compensate for the thicker, new head gasket, if you want to maintain CR.

1: Which stock head would be compatible?
A- Any C5 to C9 (Pre "M") casting will be compatible. That is to say they will have 52cc combustion chambers. All else is a direct swap. You will still need to mill the head about .025" to compensate for the difference in the thickness of the stock OEM steel shim head gasket and the new one.

2: Does anyone here have a decent (rebuildable) head for sale?
A- Shipping on a cylinder head is expensive, so unless you can find one locally, this is a long shot. Best bet for a builder is your local recycle yard.

3: Where would be a good place to shop for a rebuilt?
A- Depends on your location. The other option is to find a local, reputable mechainist, builder. Get a core and have it built to your specs and standards.

"The bitterness of low quality lasts long after the sweetness of low price."

Another option is to get a later head as in Borts suggestion. The advantage of the '78 and later head is larger intake valves, hardened vavle seats, greater intake tract volume and a larger carb hole. The only down side is a larger chamber of 62 ccs, which can be reduced to 52 ccs by milling it .050". The later heads are also reinforced in stress areas like the end ears that typically break.

This option also gives you the use of your car while you're building the head. Swap when you're ready and minimize down time.

Let us know what you decide to do.

Adios, David

 

[CrashBob]

Howdy Bob and All:


"The bitterness of low quality lasts long after the sweetness of low price."

Another option is to get a later head as in Borts suggestion. The advantage of the '78 and later head is larger intake valves, hardened vavle seats, greater intake tract volume and a larger carb hole. The only down side is a larger chamber of 62 ccs, which can be reduced to 52 ccs by milling it .050". The later heads are also reinforced in stress areas like the end ears that typically break.

This option also gives you the use of your car while you're building the head. Swap when you're ready and minimize down time.

Let us know what you decide to do.

Adios, David

David, Bort and all

Thank you for the direct answers! I understand directness. My thoughts were along the lines of Bort's and your last suggestion. I am fortunate to have a quality automotive machine shop here in town. Now to find a suitable core, it seems as though a lot of salvage yards don't keep older cars around anymore. That's kind of sad and does make part scrounging difficult. However, once again I am fortunate to have a large salvage yard in my town who can search thier network and have things brought in at a reasonable cost.


Will keep y'all up to date.

CrashBob, wannabe mechanic

 

[Bort62]

The late 70's early 80's cars are still pretty prevalent around here...

 

[BUZZ]

If you can't get your old head worked out Rockauto has rebuilt heads.
They're marshell part#H3032, total price with out a core is 316.79. If you give them a core your total will be 231.79. I'm not sure what shipping is but the price seems pretty fair.I found them while looking for parts for my capri.

 

[Kstang]

If you want to ship I might have a head for you for really cheap next week? PM me if intrested. I have been told its from a 67 mustang. That is all i know right now.

 

[Anonymous]

I had no idea that a used head that still needed to be rebuilt would cost $200 - $400. When I was in the market for an engine, a few posts on this site had the purchase price of a used stock 200 at $100 -$200. Rebuilt at $300 - $400...and thats the whole engine.

Is that the going rate for a used head...$200-$400?? What is the cost for one of Mike's Aluminum Heads, isnt it like $1300??

 

[addo]

I think head prices will reflect the seller's ambitions, location, exact product (as all are not alike), and of course condition.

If you can find a whole cheap motor close by, there is always the option of paying full ticket for the engine and only taking what you want.

If you edit your profile information to mention that you're in Dallas, might find someone close enough by who has what you need at the right price.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[aahsac]

I was able to find a core head at Bishop Engine here in Dallas. They have a giant core business and still run across some of the old stuff. They ran my head through a steel-abrator, check it for cracks, it was complete with rocker arms, shaft, etc for $125 and they would stand behind it if it wasn't rebuildable.

I think the core price is only part of the equation if you have a machine shop do what needs to be done. In my case mill the head, surface the exhaust flange, repair one tiny crack, replace all guides, replace two intake and three exhaust valves, three angle, back cut intake valves, replace three valve springs, remove one broken stud, heli coil one exhaust bolt hole. That was more than $125 by a bit!

 

[Bort62]

Like I said, I went to pick n' pull and grabbed my head for 40 bucks. Someone had even taken it off already, it was just sitting there.

Every time I go, there are 3-4 late 70's early 80's I6 cars.

If people are paying 2-300 $ for a rebuildable core, Ill start selling them.