I need a little help with procedures for replacing the valve stem seals on my stock 1966 200 I6. I would like to do with the head still mounted on the engine block in the car. I have read in the past about the rope being inserted into the plug hole and rotating the crank by hand to compress the rope against the valves. What is the best method? Compressed air against the closed valves ? I just dont want to drop a valve and have to remove the head. Also are there retainers on the existing and new valve seals? Where is the best place to get new seals? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
replacing valve seals 200 I6
- Thread starter franko66
- Start date
Vin Man
Famous Member
franko66":3cbfkfej said:
I don't know the answer to your question, so you can stop right here if you like.
However, I'll ask "why not remove the head?" If you are mechanically inclined enough to replace the seals, than removing the head shouldn't be much of a challenge. Remove carb and exhaust manifold and the headbolts and you're there. Wouldn't it be easier to do the seals with the head off? Extra cost would be head gasket and exhaust gasket?
I just painted everything after the used engine swap. I installed new plugs , replaced the exhaust manifold gasket and carb gasket.no smoke for a few months. Maybe the motor sat a while and the seals dried out. I think it will be easier to just do the rope trick.My guess is a few hours of work with the rope rather than the full removal which will take longer and costs more money and time. Just wanted to know where to get the best replacement valve stem seals and any additional info from people who know these engines and have done this.
Vin Man
Famous Member
franko66":3eu20aii said:
Thanks. ClassicInlines, this website, Antioch Mustang Stable, and a couple of my friends made it happen. Along with my checkbook!
Here's the story: http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50725
Yes you can do "the rope trick" and replace the seals with the head still on, provided you have a valve spring compressor tool designed for that sort of operation. I prefer using the rope because it gives you a firmer push against the valve than compressed air.
You can check the condition of the valve stem seals before taking them apart, just take the valve cover off and use a strong light to inspect the seals inside the springs. Are they all intact? They look like little black umbrellas inside the springs. When they get really old they get brittle and pieces begin to break off and find their way into the little oil drainage valleys in the head, and into the block and oil pan. If they are all intact, use an uncurled paperclip to gently poke at a few of them through the springs- are they still kind of flexible or do they feel hard and brittle?
If they are all intact and feel kind of flexible then they are not your problem. More likely it is valve guides or rings.
If they are broken and/or brittle, you change them by using the rope, using the tool to compress the spring, removing the keepers (they are held in place by the spring pressure, so they will fall off when the spring is compressed), uncompress and remove the spring, then just slip the seal off the valve stem and slip a new one on. There are no keepers on the valve seals, they are held captive by the spring retainer, which can be reinstalled when the spring is compressed. Seals can be bought in bulk at most auto parts stores for about 25 cents each.
You can check the condition of the valve stem seals before taking them apart, just take the valve cover off and use a strong light to inspect the seals inside the springs. Are they all intact? They look like little black umbrellas inside the springs. When they get really old they get brittle and pieces begin to break off and find their way into the little oil drainage valleys in the head, and into the block and oil pan. If they are all intact, use an uncurled paperclip to gently poke at a few of them through the springs- are they still kind of flexible or do they feel hard and brittle?
If they are all intact and feel kind of flexible then they are not your problem. More likely it is valve guides or rings.
If they are broken and/or brittle, you change them by using the rope, using the tool to compress the spring, removing the keepers (they are held in place by the spring pressure, so they will fall off when the spring is compressed), uncompress and remove the spring, then just slip the seal off the valve stem and slip a new one on. There are no keepers on the valve seals, they are held captive by the spring retainer, which can be reinstalled when the spring is compressed. Seals can be bought in bulk at most auto parts stores for about 25 cents each.
mustang6,
I have the same problem. I checked mine and they are hard and brittle and one of them broke into chunks.
I cleaned out the broken pieces on that one valve.
My question is:
What will happen if I run the engine with one valve stem seal missing?
Is it really nessesary to replace all of them if they are all hard and brittle? Thanks.
I have the same problem. I checked mine and they are hard and brittle and one of them broke into chunks.
I cleaned out the broken pieces on that one valve.
My question is:
What will happen if I run the engine with one valve stem seal missing?
Is it really nessesary to replace all of them if they are all hard and brittle? Thanks.
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