Rocker adjusting screw question

I've stayed away from red locktite except on parts that i was planning on removing very seldom. I was looking at the hightemp locktite as well, but wasn't sure whether this warranted it. How difficult is the red to remove? I've always thought heat was the choice of champions for removing the red stuff
:beer:
 
slimjimandtherats":2xmi3r0h said:
Right on! well as it turns out, there are about 8 adjusting screws which are needing replacing. I swapped them all around and it turns out the adjusting screws are indeed worn out.
After a quick search, i failed to find a solid source for them.
Secondly, the thread pitch on the adjusting screws are slightly off what the local hardware had on hand. I believe the 20tpi (forget what size screw. 3/8 maybe?) was what was closest, but bound up right as it cleared all threads. I tried the jam nut on several other adjusting screws, but the nut bound up on all. I am planning on just using blue locktite after shes warmed up to get my final lash.
Would anyone happen to have the specs on the adjusting bolts? I may try to massage the bolt threads back with a rethreader if i can get the stock thread pattern.
I'm gonna spend the day getting a start on the exhaust
[image]https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/13043315_10154222859839430_5545373435538371195_n.jpg?oh=88ff2fd79e1fafbb2e34d14dbbc2839a&oe=57728099[/image]
Anyways, give me your thoughts and concerns.
:beer:
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If my memory's are correct it should be a 3/8 inch National Fine (3/8 24 threads per inch) these are US specs (SAE). If it's not that and is smaller it would be 5/16 NF (5/16 24 threads per inch). You should be able to get the replacement adjuster bolts at many good auto parts stores like NAPA, Macs, etc. on lash if it's a solid lifter cam the lash specs are set with engine warmed up good to .016 (feeler gauge between rocker and valve stem) on both exhaust and intake. If it's a Hyd. Cam you would set to zero lash plus 1/4 to 1 turn additional. Back up until rockers are clicking then adjust tighter until they just stop that's zero lash. Good looking wagon. I usally set mine at 1/4 turn and don't mine if it clicks a little after start until oil pressure goes to normal. If you don't like that set them tighter by another 1/4 to 3/4 turn :nod:
 
Perfect! I'll have to give napa a try tomorrow after work. The finest they had at ace hardware was 20tpi fine thread, which was close but no cigar.
Also, i have read of people mentioning a falcon manual at http://falconperformance.sundog.net/, but they no longer exist. Is there a Bible for Falcon performance out there that someone could recommend?
 
bubba22349":3rxz9fiv said:
slimjimandtherats":3rxz9fiv said:
What do you mean exactly by interference fit? Some of the adjusting screws are a pain to tighten down or loosen, while others could be hand tightened to achieve valve lashing.
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An interference fit means that one part is slightly smaller then the other or it could also be Egg shaped to cause some resistance in turning. i.e. The rocker arms threaded hole vs the adjusting bolt. This is the same idea as is used with self locking nuts. The rockers that are a pain to tighten or loosen are working as they should. Good luck :nod:
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They are close to 7/16''-20 same as FE ,but not due to the interference fit. Ford had a .003'' over sized one for a fix
C2AZ.6249-A . Crane has a standard thread screw and nut that should work .
 
slimjimandtherats":3qsofuq2 said:
Perfect! I'll have to give napa a try tomorrow after work. The finest they had at ace hardware was 20tpi fine thread, which was close but no cigar.
Also, i have read of people mentioning a falcon manual at http://falconperformance.sundog.net/, but they no longer exist. Is there a Bible for Falcon performance out there that someone could recommend?
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Yes the Falcon Performance Manual is the right one and you can try the several different sources listed in the below link, except don't try Clasic Inlines. Good luck :nod:

http://www.falcon6handbook.com/order.html
 
Hi, If the blue loctite does not hold your adjustment you can use red next time. I would do the setting on a cold engine, just on the looser side. I"m fine with that and have had good results on regular street engines. If you want to work on a hot engine you can warm it up, loosen the adjusting screw, clean it off, apply the loctite of your choice, and make your adjustment.
 
Hey guys, I'm running adjustable rockers from a 200 on my 250. I had the same problem with the worn adjusters, but there is an inexpensive solution: jam nuts. You can get those from Gary at Rocker Arms Unlimited, for about $20 shipped. He's the guy that was building the CI roller rocker assemblies, really nice guy. I think you need SBF ball and cup pushrods but you'll want to talk to him directly; if you can't find what you need, he can make them. Give him a ring at (530)242-1316, he's out of Redding, CA.
 
66WarPony, thanks for the lead amigo! I just called napa this afternoon and they had a couple. I'm gonna try and swing those if i could just cause they have em in stock. If all else fails, ill give him a ring!! Cheers
 
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