Running a new motor in?

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gidday, how would you recommend running a freshly rebuilt motor in? (ie, new cam, pistons, rods, crank, etc)

cheers,
 
Break in the cam, neutral at about 2500 rpm's for about 20 minutes. If you have double springs this is suppose to be done without the inner springs. Then reinstall the inner springs and run it stop and go style. To break it in you want to work the engine. Not full throttle every where you go but stop and go type driving make the tach go up and down.
 
I ran mine long enough to break in the cam, babyed it for 100-150 miles, changed the oil & filter and proceeded to beat the crap out of it! :wink:

A friend of my Dads told me years ago to break in a new engine the way you plan on driving it...works for me :D :D :D

Later,

Doug
 
Read these posts, there is some great info to be digested.
My only susgestions are using the moly grease which should be supplied by the camshaft mfg. on the new camshaft lobes,lifters & distributor drive gear & fuel pump lobe. Another precaution is use ford camshaft & lifter prelube # M-19579-A991, or use GM EOS, engine oil supplement available from any GM dealership. Then use mineral only, no synthetic oil yet. Start the engine after you have prelubed it with a drill to build oil pressure direct to the oil pump shaft. Turn the engine over with a breaker bar for several revolutions while priming the oil system. Install the distributor, top off the coolant level,make sure fuel is in the carb, get the engine fired up as soon as possible, bring it to 2500-3000 rpms for 15 minuites to break in the camshaft. Drain the oil & change the oil filter ,fill with mineral oil again 10w-30, then take it out on the road after topping off the cooling system & run the crap out of it, drive it like you stole it. Let the engine cool down, check for any leaks & proper coolant level. Set the timing & carb idle speed. Then after a 1500 mile breakin, if you do decide to use synthetic oil that is the time.
Today the synthetic oil is the only way to go, you benifit from superior engine protection & camshaft & rocker arm wear.
Using this method, i have not wiped a camshaft yet & have had no problems yet with ring seating.
Also tighten the header bolts several times a day for several days till the header gaskets compress for a proper seal. Doing this will ensure no blown header gaskets. Do this religiously & you will never blow a header gasket again,as long as the head surface is flat & the header flanges are not warped. :D :D william
After the break in period, use the mototcraft oil filter FL-299 which will allow you to use a full 5 QTS. Credit mustang geezer for this info
 
I like the babying method.

In reality though, the engine (whatever break in) will probably be the least of your concerns. Even on my modern cars, the engine failing is the least of my concerns...it's all the other crap that adds up.

Slade
 
CobraSix":3u8hpj65 said:
I like the babying method.

In reality though, the engine (whatever break in) will probably be the least of your concerns. Even on my modern cars, the engine failing is the least of my concerns...it's all the other crap that adds up.

Slade


:? :? :?
its a new engine?
 
Overdose, its your engine you can do what you want. But after the camshaft breakin, if the engine clearances are right on, let it roll, you definately want to seat in the rings & that takes cylinder pressure to do it. The main thing is after full throttle, give the engine a breather by just backing off the throttle to let vacuum pull oil onto the cylinder wear surfaces. With todays metalergy you can't go wrong. Good luck with your engine. :D william
 
when you torque down the heads isn't it usually necassary to re-adjust the valves?
 
I bed the cam and thats it
Todays engine components dont realy need running in
 
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