"Running Hot / Overheating" Redux / Update

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Ok, gents... this is a follow up to the issues I posted in this thread:

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44610

I went ahead and plunked down the $$ for a Mastercool 52224 infrared thermometer (with the nifty laser sight).

I did some driving around during lunch break today and spot checked temps on the head. Each cylinder was reading 163*-67*... except for #3 which was reading about 155*.

I took a reading on the temp sending unit bung and it read between 163* and 167*.

It was only a short run, so I doubt it even got up to running temp. I'm going to try to do a highway test this afternoon on the way home from work.

Gotta say, that infrared thermometer is alot of fun... I've taken temps of light bulbs, ice cubes, the motor in my office fan... I even tried to impress the wife by taking a reading of her rear bumper and then telling her that it was "too hot!"
 
I even tried to impress the wife by taking a reading of her rear bumper and then telling her that it was "too hot!"
Click to expand...

Most appealing practical application, I've got to get one of those infrared thermometers.

That'd be useful to check the temp of the transmission fluid too.
 
Ok, here are the numbers (stock temp gauge was at the line at the H end).

First Reading (after 10 min on hwy at 75 mph):
Tstat housing: 175
Temp sending unit housing: 158
Block @ oil filter: 189
Avg reading across block: 205
Head (right below each spark plug)
1: 186
2: 187
3: 160
4: 189
5: 197
6: 194

Second Reading (10 more min on hwy at 75):
Tstat housing: 180
Temp sending unit housing: 171
Block @ oil filter: 206
Avg reading across block: 205
Head (right below each spark plug)
1: 187
2: 190
3: 152
4: 191
5: 194
6: 195

It would seem that my stock gauge is reading way hot when the area around cylinder 6 is at 195.

Are the temps listed within spec for this engine?

And what's the deal with cylinder 3 being 30* cooler?
 
a very good indication that #3 is running a bit richer than the rest. Considering the design of the head, sounds about right.
 
Those numbers are reasonable. #3 being cooler could be from lower compression?

At any rate, your guage is wacko.
Joe
 
Readings don't look to bad.

What thermostat are you running?
What do you have your timing set to?
 
I think the temps look fine. As mentioned maybe #3 cyl has a problem. But 190 deg is not hurting anything and many newer cars have 190 deg thermostats installed due to higher efficiency obtained running engines hotter.

The 160 deg thermostat is not going to limit the maximum coolant temp if the radiator is not capable of cooling it below 190 F. With the current cooling system components, a lower temp thermostat will only open the T-Stat sooner. It is still going to go to the 190 deg range that you are seeing. A new radiator would likely have extra cooling capacity than the worn radiator and would lower the maximum operating temp. But you obviously documented that you do not have an overheating problem, so I would not spend the money on a new radiator at this time. The nice thing is you now have a tool that can tell you when you need to pony up the money for a new radiator.
Doug
 
Again 190 is not bad. A couple things that I have done which helped keep it from going over 190.

Set your timing up to around 12 BTDC

I'm running a 160 thermostat. One thing to do with your thermostat. on the outer flange drill a 1/8 inch hole. Then reinstall with the hole facing up. This will help vent out any steam pockets that can get trapped in the system.

Also make sure you have a good non restricted exhaust system.

If you are running the stock four blade cooling fan replace it with a five blade fan.
 
I'm going to move to 12* after the next fill up. I've just put in a DurasparkII and I wanted to have it running well at a baseline before I started adjusting timing.

I've read several posts here (and elsewhere) that suggest drilling the 1/8 inch hole in the t-stat flange. I'm going to do that when I install my tefba filter.

Exhaust system passes muster (externally anyway... nothing rattles in the muffler).

The car has/had factory a/c so it has a 6 blade static fan with a shroud.

All of this worry about the cooling system is largely due to the fact I have the funds to fix the a/c and convert to r134. I know that if my cooling system isn't in tip-top shape, the a/c is going to overtax it.

Even tho the temps appear fine, I'm having other issues with the radiator...

1) the radiator is losing coolant to the tune of about 1 quart every 2-3 days. I tried installing an "improvised" coolant recovery system... but the radiator only belches coolant into the recovery bottle... it won't suck it out. Which means that either my cap isn't of the coolant recovery type OR I have a leak somewhere (likely in the top tank) that allows the rad. to suck in air (but otherwise not leak coolant).

FYI, I can find no coolant leaks in the system (and currently the spacer plate on the carb, and the heater core are bypassed).

2) the coolant (which is only 5 months old) is cloudy, not clear. The color is fine (i.e. not foamy, rusty or dark) and I'm not finding any indication that oil is in the coolant (or vice versa). As I understand it, coolant gets cloudy when it's worn out. Why so after only 5 months and maybe 2k miles?

3) as I look in the radiator filler neck, I can see some scale/plaque built up on the openings.

Should I just bite the bullet?
 
coolant can get cloudy because of contamination also. As coolant degrades, it leaves behind silicates, which form a gel-like sludge on the surfaces inside the system. This acts like an insulation blanket, causing localized overheating in the engine, or poor heat release thru the radiator. When you drain the old coolant and refill with fresh, some of that sludge re-dissolves back into the coolant, causing it to look cloudy.

If you see anything on the tubes in the radiator, then it needs to be rodded or replaced. Silicates leave behind a flaky/crusty residue anywhere it gets exposed to air, like at the top of the radiator. If you see crusty looking bubbles at the tubes, that's solder-bloom, which means the brass/copper is seriously decayed, and the rad needs to be replaced.

I'd say bite bullet.
 
All of this worry about the cooling system is largely due to the fact I have the funds to fix the a/c and convert to r134. I know that if my cooling system isn't in tip-top shape, the a/c is going to overtax it.
Click to expand...

OK dude, just trying to be a friendly voice of reason: If you have the funds for a/c, then you should spend the money on a new rad. I looked up Summitracing.com, they have an aluminum direct fit for around $290, admitedly steep, but Rockauto.com has a direct replacement for your car specifically with AC for $161.79. And a real coolant overflow tank is about $10 at any chain autoparts store, about $20 for an aftermarket temp guage. You're looking at under $250 to get some important things straight.

Because you're correct, all that money spent on AC is going to be wasted if your cooling situation isn't corrected (although it's kind of been established that it's kind of OK, but kind of not), it'll possibly destroy the AC. I live in Fla too, and the heat here kills cars.

It'll be worth it, you can flush everything, test your drilled thermostat with boiling water and that infrared thermometer to make sure it opens all the way, check the waterpump and hoses, etc. And you can feel cool (literally) and confident, and laugh when you see me drive by like this:

1129820138.jpg
 
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