Running Rough dont konw what else to do!! (Video)

CoupeBoy":3bdenigd said:
If you are happy with the carburator performance (off idle) I think you might be better off replacing the Load-O-Matic distributor with a newer ('68+) dual advance points style if your Petronix will work in it. Otherwise your next best bet is the Duraspark II.

Fixing the SCV/LOM situation is ok if you want to stay with stock performance and have a concourse restoration. But if you are thinking about long term performance improvements you will eventually want a larger CFM carburator than any of the Autolite 1100's (with SCV) can provide.

-ron


so the Autolites have more cfm than my holley?
 
I think the 1940 wuz a ford replacement (done @ dealer when U went in for service or handed over the counter to an independant mechanic who came in for a part). Some 1 please correct me if I'm wrong...
Do U plan on having the car long? Yes, then If U don't have the Ford Six Performance Handbook I'd suggest getting it. It lists out about a doz carbs. This one works well but there are better ones (more tunable). Of course this is an expense I would forgo but I'm cheep...
8^0
 
JackFish":2w9h60yj said:
Also on a side note, the bottom pulley on the I6 is wobbly at idle but when rpm increases it smooths out.. will post video tomorow with everything in it

If the rubber is shot that could be your problem right there.
I wouldn't run the car with a wobbly damper.
http://www.damperdoctor.com


Is it OK to drive with this for a while.. DONT want too spend the money right now
 
Can you afford to have it fail completely knocking the engine completely out of whack damaging it enough to require a complete rebuild? And leaving you stranded on the road somewhere?

A damper can be had for $100 or so with a core return.
Mike at Classic Inlines has them too.
 
if in THAT bad a shape is a bottom line kinda thing (ie NOW!)...
 
"if the rubber is shot...I wouldn't run the vehicle..."

2X what he said...
That thing is there for the rest of the operation!

any pointers 4 him on how to assure a diagnosis?
 
The inline 6 is a balanced motor, no crank or harmonic balancer weights. You have no idea how long the balancer has been bad or how many bad ones are on the road being driven daily. I have a bent8 that completely shattered the outer ring of its balancer in the summer of 2010. I never noticed any increase in vibration, I also timed it using the vacuum method. I *should* replace it, but I most likely won't as I have a different motor and transmission waiting on the wings. I only drive it to and from town (50 miles round trip) and I have towing insurance.

Yes, replace it asap.
No it won't fix your problem.

His diagnosis will come from performing the basic testing I specified above. And if the diagnosis isn't directly found, it will look lead in a direction toward resolution.
 
I'm still not sure that abut the balancer I'll post a video of it again, and what are the steps for replacement since it needs to be done I need to know how to do it...

Thanks again everybody without yall I'd be in pretty bad shape
 
Drain and pull the radiator (it is in the way)
Remove any and all belts.
Unbolt the pulley from the harmonic balancer
Remove the center bolt from the harmonic balancer
Use an Harmonic Balancer to remove the balancer (usually 3 bolts through the puller, but some people have the grip type)

After the old one is off, push the new one on by hand as far as it goes and then tighten it up the rest of the way with the harmonic balancer bolt. Then reverse the other steps.. belts and radiator...

In your case the condensor may also be in the way, hopefully it is not. And if it is, hopefully you can gently move it out of the way so you don't have to disturb the working order of the AC.

-ron
 
Tanks (w/o guns) CB!
 
I'd say same place U got ur other stuff, Ryan (unless it's from a place that is specific to your vehicle ie Mustangs Unlimited or some such place. They usually have inflated prices).
 
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