Got a Ford 262 L6, 100,000 miles on it, running when pulled. Haven't torn into it yet, but will begin shortly. Based on history, don't THINK its ever been re-built.Read the post on sleeving, seems like it would be worthwhile.Was thinking if the sleeves were cryo'd, prior to inserting, would be even better, but is it practical/possible?Read this, "http://www.gregsengine.com/sleeve.htm" Describes how this shop does it. Talks about applying pressure, and it SOUNDS like they are expanding the sleeve.Is that part of the processs, and would cryoing interfere with that, or boring and honing after installed?This is my first engine build, case you can't` tell. :roll: Jim
?'s on sleeving
- Thread starter Divco man
- Start date
When overboring for a sleeve, a shoulder is left at the bottom of the cylinder bore for the sleeve to register on.
When installed the sleeve is slightly taller than the block. The block is then decked to get sleeves to the exact same height. When head is torqued down can't move. Different sleeves and block combonations, different interference clearance. We always left sleeve in a household freezer and the block behind the hot tank over night prior to installation. Install dry, tapped down with 2# dead blow hammer and wood block.
Never had a problem when boring and honing to size or when in use, that includes race engines.
As far as the benefits or drawback of cryo treating the sleeves, don't know. Can say that the sleeve material is better than the original block.
When installed the sleeve is slightly taller than the block. The block is then decked to get sleeves to the exact same height. When head is torqued down can't move. Different sleeves and block combonations, different interference clearance. We always left sleeve in a household freezer and the block behind the hot tank over night prior to installation. Install dry, tapped down with 2# dead blow hammer and wood block.
Never had a problem when boring and honing to size or when in use, that includes race engines.
As far as the benefits or drawback of cryo treating the sleeves, don't know. Can say that the sleeve material is better than the original block.
Boring and honing should be no problem but would cryo makes the sleeve too hard for rings to seal (wear-in)?
It is the wearing down of the crosshatch peaks that form the flat surfaces that the rings seal on. Would cryo make the sleeve to hard for the peaks to wear, would the rings wear faster than the hone pattern?
Question; a sleeve will wear longer than the original block, will you have the engine that long? long enough to wear out a cryo 'd sleeve? Seems cost of cryo is not justified by increased longevity that may not be used.
Sorry don't want to sound like a downer, just habit, not want to buy more than needed.
It is the wearing down of the crosshatch peaks that form the flat surfaces that the rings seal on. Would cryo make the sleeve to hard for the peaks to wear, would the rings wear faster than the hone pattern?
Question; a sleeve will wear longer than the original block, will you have the engine that long? long enough to wear out a cryo 'd sleeve? Seems cost of cryo is not justified by increased longevity that may not be used.
Sorry don't want to sound like a downer, just habit, not want to buy more than needed.
Don't apologise for 'being a downer', this is just the kind of input I'm looking for. The point about break in hadn't occurred to me, I'm seriously considering Topseal gapless top ring, and with the $, certainly don't want to spend extra $ to cryo the sleeves, so the rings wear out quicker, so I can spend more $ replacing them!
This engines 40+ years old, I'd like it to last another 40 years. Also, there's lots of things that have developed during the last 40 years, I'd like to incorporate some of them.For instance, there are no guide pins, to line the head up on the block, hoping that can be corrected.Maybe some things to improve oiling, cooling,mileage andto make it last(durability?). Not looking to make it a race engine, looking for low end torque and drivability.Gonna be a daily driver, and every so often (3-6 mos.) gonna pull a 8x36 50's era trailer, (7000lbs+). Truck weighs close to 4000lbs.Anyway, thanks again for the input. I think I will talk to the shop about sleeving, but I'll drop the idea of cryo'ing the sleeves.Jim
This engines 40+ years old, I'd like it to last another 40 years. Also, there's lots of things that have developed during the last 40 years, I'd like to incorporate some of them.For instance, there are no guide pins, to line the head up on the block, hoping that can be corrected.Maybe some things to improve oiling, cooling,mileage andto make it last(durability?). Not looking to make it a race engine, looking for low end torque and drivability.Gonna be a daily driver, and every so often (3-6 mos.) gonna pull a 8x36 50's era trailer, (7000lbs+). Truck weighs close to 4000lbs.Anyway, thanks again for the input. I think I will talk to the shop about sleeving, but I'll drop the idea of cryo'ing the sleeves.Jim
I have had bandsaws cryo treated as an experiment to see how it might help longevity in a sawmill application; all of the folks trying to sell me cryo treatment on both saws and chipper/planer knives assured me that there was absolutely zero increase in HARDNESS, but it supposedly has some magical affect of wearability. At any rate, it didn't give me a noticeable bang for the buck so I didn't try it any further.
I would seriously question the need/desirability of sleeving that 262 block, especially since you haven't torn it down yet. Those blocks were somewhat heavier than the thin-wall 300's, and it is no problem boring a 300 out .060".
Joe
I would seriously question the need/desirability of sleeving that 262 block, especially since you haven't torn it down yet. Those blocks were somewhat heavier than the thin-wall 300's, and it is no problem boring a 300 out .060".
Joe
Yeah, I'm not sure I understand exactly why cryo'ing is supposed to be beneficial either. I'm not a chemist, metalurgist, engineer, etc. and a lot of technical talk makes my eyes glaze over.On the forum for 215/223/262's, I read that the cylinder walls on these blocks aren't particularly hard, so it, (sleeving) is something I'm considering.Willing to look at anything that can improve the engine, 'while I'm in there.'
When the engine is torn down and cylinders mic'd you will have some idea of wear vs "softness/ hardness" of block mat'l.
There are more ring choices today, different mat'ls, lower tension so there could be rings available now that would wear less.
Using bolts as guide pins refers to using two headless bolts on each end of the block when installing head. These are the last bolt torqued. So all the other head bolts are torqued to the first stage to hold the head aligned then the headless bolts are replaced one at a time with real bolts and torqued.
There are more ring choices today, different mat'ls, lower tension so there could be rings available now that would wear less.
Using bolts as guide pins refers to using two headless bolts on each end of the block when installing head. These are the last bolt torqued. So all the other head bolts are torqued to the first stage to hold the head aligned then the headless bolts are replaced one at a time with real bolts and torqued.
Now I get it, DUH! 
I thought in the post I read, that they were saying its possible/easy to get the head mis-aligned on the block, with all the headbolts torqued down! Your saying they were just saying its difficult to lift the head up on the deck, with the headgasket, and lign up the headbolt holes.And your tip o0f the longer bolts with the heads cut off helps. I said I never done this before. Thanks for your patience. 
Jim
I thought in the post I read, that they were saying its possible/easy to get the head mis-aligned on the block, with all the headbolts torqued down! Your saying they were just saying its difficult to lift the head up on the deck, with the headgasket, and lign up the headbolt holes.And your tip o0f the longer bolts with the heads cut off helps. I said I never done this before. Thanks for your patience. Jim