S/S Valves

80Stang

80Stang

Well-known member
What do you think about the Ferrea stainless steel valves, has anybody used those? Is there any other affordable S/S valves available in addition to SI Valves and Ferrea?

If I buy a set of such valves in .015 oversize stems, is it safe to narrow the stems up to 1mm to improve flow (if it is not undersize already)? Is it actually worth the trouble?

www.ferrea.com

BTW, I opened a small website with a few selected pics of my sixbanger, take a look:

http://www.ponikorjaamo.com/ti80
 
don't know about the valves but the pictures are great!!!!!!! :lol:
 
Seems like about everybody's running std valves. Sixbanging is a way to "Dare to be different", so go for stainless...
 
The only 2 that I know for a fact are using SS valves are Mike (AzCoupe) and Doug (Mustang Geezer).
I believe Mike's are Manley custom made, Doug's are FSPP valves. Feel free to ask them!

Alex
 
Installing the bigger (FSPP) valves really made a differance on my motor.....I went from a number 69 jet, 4.5 power valve and .028 squirter to a #76 jet, 7.5 power valve and .036 squirter. This is on a 500 cfm Holley 2 Bbl.

Well worth the investment IMO! :D :D :D

Later,

Doug
 
The cost difference: Ferreas are 1.6x the price of the Sealed Power std valves, asked from the same dealer here. I think SI Valves from Mike would go pretty close to the local Ferrea pricing, depending on the freight costs to the other side of the world, which of course is not know at this point.

I still don't know it the Ferreas are available with +.015 stems (it is half the price to have fixed guides overbored than new guides installed).
 
Doug, i may be totally out to lunch on this observation. you have jumped
from a 69 jet & .029 discharge nozzle to a 76 jet & a .036 discharge nozzle since your upgrade with the larger valves & chamber work.
You maybe 100% on target, but i had a similiar condition years ago when i was drag racing. i found a lack of fuel pressure & volume with modifications. I keep riching up the carb only to discover fuel starvation from an inadaquate fuel delivery system. I installed a better pump & large fuel lines from the tank to the fuel pump. I rejeted the carburetor to my previous settings & picked up 4 tenths & 4 mph in trap speed in the quarter mile.
just from my previous experience with holley carburetors they are always 2 jet sizes rich, unless you are running a big block with 454 cubic inches or more.
As i said before you maybe right on target, but just check you fuel pressure & volume at full throttle.
You maybe the victum of fuel starvation. also check your float level.


just making a comment from past experience?? keep in touch-william
 
Teppo, to get back on the valve subject. these valves from ferra look nascar quality,with titanium & sodium valves & even their regular valves look great. I think for the money you can't beat mikes at fspp. the price is right. Compare their prices let your wallet be your guide.
I highly recommend under cutting the stem below the head of the valve before it goes into the guide. It does improve air flow. I have them on my 415 small block in my el camino.
I also have fspp valves in my 80 head for my mustang. Best of luck on your project. :idea: william
 
Teppo,

I have used Ferrea Titanium valves in my Toyota 4age racing engines with great success, revving to nearly 11,000 RPMs. I am confident that their stainless steel valves are very high quality, as well.

As long as the valves are solid stem, there shouldn't be any issues with taking them down .015" to fit the guides. As someone pointed out, though, it is often easier and cheaper to ream the guides to the size of the valves than to cut down the valve stems.

Cheers!
 
I felt it worth mentioning a couple of peripheral issues relating to the valve guides.

The thinwall spiral grooved bronze type are well regarded as suitable for performance applications. Also, they are available ex-catalogue in many, many spec's, so it couldn't be too hard to find what you want. They can't be reamed, just replaced.

Also, roller rockers remove much of the side loads on a valve guide, promoting life and performance. In other words, you can afford to shorten the guide length with no sacrifice of durability. The Argentinian race heads seem to capitalise on this by removing up to 2,5 mm from the "boss" where the guide protrudes into the valve bowl. Better airflow always tempts!

Regards, Adam.
 
Just heard that cast iron guides can't stand the stainless valves, I should have bronze guides inserted. So I can go with std stem.

SI Valves exhaust being 1.50, does the enlargening work on the seat ruin the hardening and dictate to have new hardened seats inserted (takes lots of $$$$s). Ferreas are std size so no need to enlargen the seat.

Just balancing which way is the best pricewise.
 
Teppo, there is a great chance with the larger exhaust valve the hardened seat will be removed. I chose to cut the valves diameter to 1.430 & have a hardened seat installed. The exhaust ports are so small i don't think the slight loss of valve diameter will hurt. the hardened seats are very close to the chamber wall anyway. Hope this helps in your desision, :D william
Also after the valve job, & after you lap the valves to the seat, back cut with a 28 degree angle with a valve refacer right up to the lap in mark. That will remove the sharp edge & provide a smoother transition for enhanced flow, do the same with the intake valve. Remember you gain flow when the valve opens & when it closes-a double ++
 
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