SCV and Load-O question

mysavioreigns

Famous Member
As of right now, I've got the load-o distributor, and I'll be putting on the H/W 5200. I know that there is some kind of problem because the 5200 is not an SCV carb (is that correct).

Although I could do the Duraspark swap (and I plan on it soon) I really am out of money at the moment and am trying to just get it functional to drive. So how am I going to do this? Will I run the vacuum from the dizzy to the manifold?
 
if it's just for a bit of time, hooking it up either place will work. Some guys don't see much difference between the two, except at idle (manifold vac much higher). In any case the important thing is to not over-advance at this point, with a new engine. The 5200 or manifold direct will not over-advance the Load-O (Load-O requires more vacuum, not less).

The duraspark upgrade is about $125 so hopefully you can afford it fairly soon. Nice job on the engine and all the other work.

John
 
I would urge against doing this swap in the order proposed. Put the carb on the shelf for now; it won't go rotten if you leave it there a few weeks.
 
iirc, you can hook the L-O-M dizzy up to manifold vacuum, and it'll be ok for idle and low-speed, but lazy at cruise or high engine-rpm operation (when the SCV would switch to venturi vacuum).

Or you can just not hook up the vacuum advance, and run the static timing up several degrees.

$125 for a Duraspark? Gee, I think I spent like $50 on my Duraspark 1 (smaller points-type cap and wires). If you have a decent wreckingyard nearby, you oughta be able to get a decent setup pretty cheap.
 
addo":2o7zic1n said:
I would urge against doing this swap in the order proposed. Put the carb on the shelf for now; it won't go rotten if you leave it there a few weeks.
He's got a good point, it makes more sense to swap to a DS ignition first, then do the carb.

iirc, you've got an Autolite 1100, is it working ok?
 
I would, but I don't have a vehicle (This is a new engine build and the carb off the old engine is the smaller log). It’s (supposed to be) my daily driver, and my wife sure is getting irritated at driving me around :)

I guess if I’m lucky I can scrounge up some cash to do the swap. So say it’s $125, I hear the wiring is different. I did a few searches online, but seem to find stuff more for Jeeps. The ones I did see for ours were kiiinda helpful, but not really
 
$125 for a Duraspark? Gee, I think I spent like $50 on my Duraspark 1 (smaller points-type cap and wires).

There's a lot more than a dizzy core involved $38--cap, base, and rotor $20, blue grommet ignition module $30, new wires $20, new coil $20-$40 depending, plus your basic wiring materials.

It's cheap, but it's not $50. No point in putting junker stuff in at new prices that come with a warranty.

John
 
mysaviorreigns....you *have* read the DuraSpark conversion sticky at the top of this forum, right? :D

You can go 2 ways with a DS conversion, DS1 or DS2. I *really* like the DS1 distributor because you can use your existing points-type cap, rotor, and wires, plus it looks stock/period/stealthy. DS1's were made for +/- '75-'76, then Ford went to the DS2. The only thing different from a DS2 is the huge dizzy cap/base and different wires, parts houses spec the same dizzy for either app. If you go with the DS2, you'll need new (different) wires from the points-type ones you already have.

If you want a new/reman distributor (not a bad idea) and module;
www.partsamerica.com (aka Advance Auto)
Vehicle: 1975 FORD MAVERICK
Engine: L6 3.3 Liter 1BBL
Cardone Remanufactured Distributor, Part Number: 302690 = $52.44
GP Sorensen Ignition Module, Part Number: EL104 = $20.98
$70 + whatever bits of wire you need to hook it up, which shouldn't be much. (and I'll bet you can call around and find better prices)

If you want a DS2, I'd hit a wrecking-yard first, iirc there are several in nearby GrandPrairie. See if you can snag everything - dizzy, cap/rotor, plug wires, module, and as much wiring as you can get. I wouldn't pay more than $30 for the lot, hopefully you can pick-n-pull your own for maybe $10-15 (cash talks!)

OR you can use a GM HEI 4-pin module to fire the coil, ask for:
GP Sorensen Ignition Module, Part Number: EL102 = $15.98
(if the partsmonkey wants to look up a car, tell him you want a module for a '76 Buick Electra w/ 455)
 
66 E100 Pickup":22r31k4r said:
$125 for a Duraspark? Gee, I think I spent like $50 on my Duraspark 1 (smaller points-type cap and wires).

There's a lot more than a dizzy core involved $38--cap, base, and rotor $20, blue grommet ignition module $30, new wires $20, new coil $20-$40 depending, plus your basic wiring materials.

It's cheap, but it's not $50. No point in putting junker stuff in at new prices that come with a warranty.

John
Yup, you're right - I looked and I spent $35 on a reman dizzy, $10 on DS1 cap & rotor, $30 on lifetime wires, and $35 on a good coil (NAPA IC12, iirc). I originally used an existing MSD box to fire it ($50 via ebay), but have since switched to a GM HEI module ($15). Throw in a couple of feet of wire and crimps, etc...total = $125 for a completely new ignition (minus plugs). What was I thinking? :shock:

And I take it back about using a points-type cap on a DS1, the points-type caps use spring clips to hold down and the DS1's use screws.

Now, looking at mysavioreigns' situation... if the plug wires are ok and he can hit a yard and get a module (they're solid-state, so they're either good or not) and the wiring bits, that's $50 saved, and if he can get a dizzy that's got good shaft bushings (no wobble), then that's another $35 off.
 
Man jamyers, you're a huge help :D

Yes, I've heard the rumors that there are a lot of junkyards over in Grand Prairie, but I've never been. I always hit up the ones in Kennedale. shame on me, though, I should go :)

So from your last post, I can't use the DS1 with my original cap and wires? But the distributor should be the same for the DS1 and the DS2?
 
The difference between the DS1 and DS2 is the cap. The DS1 uses the old style cap, and the DS2 is the same distributer with an adapter and bigger cap.

This is why I'm using the DS1 cap, I'm too cheap to buy wires!
 
Alright guys, I think I've got it down. I won't have a chance to make it to the junkyard, but I don't necessarily know if I even need to go.

I'm getting:
distributor out of a 75 Maverick
GM ignition module from 76 Electra
Cap, rotor, wires

Can I keep my Pertronix "Flamethrower II" coil?
 
You're welcome, glad to help! I may end up at FM600 wrecking this weekend, I'll keep my eye out for a DS just in case.

DS dizzy, new cap and rotor, existing wires, existing coil, and a GM HEI module - you oughta be set!

Note: and DS dizzy will work, the DS2's are same/same as DS1's, they just have a goofy-big cap stuck on them. So you can ask for just about any '75-up small-six dizzy.

Side note: The HEI module needs a good ground, and it wants some sort of heatsink (the cooler they are the longer they last). I've seen them mounted to the inner fender, to shock tower / brace, lots of places. Just make sure the metal back is making lots of contact with something, and use heatsink grease. I went the full monte way and picked up a computer heatsink at RadioSnack for something like $6, mounted the module to it, then mounted the whole thing out of sight to the underside of the shock tower brace (above/beside the brake master cylinder).

Side side note: I'll be in Arlington next weekend - PM me if you need a hand, I'll bring my box-o-wires, etc.
 
The DS upgrade is really trivial, and has been the most reliable part of my car.

Use the GM module. It's cheaper and smaller than the ford box.

Wiring it all up is extremely simple. I used a 1/2" thick chunk of Aluminum bar about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide. I heat sinked the module to it, and bolted the stock coil bracket to it as well. Now I have it all contained in one unit that I bolted to the fenderwell.
 
mysavioreigns":24pvwpml said:
jamyers,
I sent you a PM, but it doesn't show in my "sent" PMs list. Just letting you know, if you don't get it.

Thanks,
Got it and replied! 8)
 
Is the hold-down clamp and bolt the same for the duraspark and my stock (Load-O)? In Joe's writeup, it said they were slightly different, but I looked on some auto parts places and it said they were the same. I just want to know if I can use my original one or not. Thanks,
 
Oughta be the same (mine was).

I'll give you a call later on this week when I get my schedule firmed up.
 
be prepared to use emory cloth to help the DSII slip in. The fit was too tight on my '70 block but the emory did the trick. Don't force it in, as there may be oil pump alignment issues also.

John
 
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