Sideways-mounted Weber stalls on left turns - why exactly?

jamyers

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My sideways mounted H/W 5200 (DFAV) tries to stall out on left turns, and not that hard a turn either...just turning left to loop under an overpass can do it. I've set the brass float height to the 41mm spec, even tried the plastic float 38.5 spec (if I recall the exact numbers correctly). No difference.

Exactly what is happening, and why wouldn't it happen when accelerating if the carb was mounted bowl-forward?

Also, what are the holes in the float bowl, just above the main jets, for? Best I can figure is the one on the primary side goes nowhere, and the one on the secondary side goes to a hole in the carb bore above the venturi.
 
Here's a shot of the insides of a DGV, the red arrows indicate the holes in question (looks like this DGV only has one, mine has 2 holes, the blue arrows point to the other end of their passages.
DGVInsides.jpg
 
That sure looks like a vent. The float bowl area must be vented to atmospheric pressure. If it were completely closed off the fuel flow into the bowl would have to match the output through the idle and main jets perfectly.

Try sealing off a glass jar completely with the only opening being the fuel inlet to the jar. You would only be able to put fuel into the jar until the air becomes compressed.

As to the stalling? Make sure the brass float doesn’t leak and the foam float doesn’t absorb any fuel. That would lower the total fuel level in the bowl area and create stalls.

Good luck, Ric.
 
Not vents, the area above the bowl around the air corrector jets is open to atmosphere (inside the filter), you can look inside and see the fuel. From reading, I'm betting the fuel passages are for "high-speed pullovers" where the carb adds yet more fuel above the venturi at high rpm.

Brass float isn't leaking, doublechecked that.

Is there a spec on how high the actual fuel level inside the bowl is supposed to be, rather than just the float-bottom-to-carb-top spec that everybody has? I've checked, doublechecked, and checked the float height, it's set to spec.

As far as the carb orientation, from what I've read it should be having troubles with a hard RIGHT turn, since that would tend to uncover the main jets - a moderate left turn should have the same effect on my setup as accellerating on a "correct" (forward-facing) setup.

So what's going on? Looks like I'll open it up this friday and set the float way high, then way low and see what happens. Or I might head to the local boneyard and look for a throttle cable and turn the carb, but I'd really rather keep the stock linkage.
 
my DGAV does the same thing, as did the DGES I had in my old MGB. I suspect it's a float adjustment issue. It must be adjustable or repairable since webers are such a popular race carb, but I haven't been able to get a straight answer. Still, you might try contacting http://www.webercarburetors.com/ or someone like that. If you find a soultion, please let me know.
 
xecute":7s60acaq said:
TEcORTINATHROUGHTURN.jpg


xc5008degleanv2.jpg


TE6Ghiaat9degmaxspeedcnr.jpg


From every drive report I've gotten my hands on, all six cylinder Ford I6's surge when punted hard through corners. Except for the EFI ones and those with Weber carbs.


We do have some pretty hardcore curves

55KMPERHOURBENDS.jpg




Who can get 7 to 8 degree leans like our old Fords do, and do you guys get fuel surge. Especially interested in Holley 2300 and 5200 equiped rides.

A 32/36, 5200 or DG series carb isn't like an IDF, IDA, or DCOE Weber. The traditional Ferrari or Porche race carb is one of the best when mounted correctly.

The DG series is pretty good when the float bowl faces the front of the car, too. Plenty of mad Europeans with Fiats, Escorts, Capris and Cortinas raced with the DG series carbs without fuel starvation.


Setting the float level higher isn't normally a good idea, but its cheaper to bend the float hanger than spend money on something, so experiment a little!

It's not hard to get over twice the g foces in a corner, than you'd get by straightline acceleration alone in our sixes. If your car has a highly modified engine with a big ccam, nitrous, a blower, a 2v head, or a killer turbo you might trip the 1 g mark, but generally the cornering forces are the most likely to cause surge!


A stock Mustang can lean up to 6 ot 8 degrees in an evasive turn, but is still likley to lean a fair amount when negotiating on ramps or off ramps. Even a 12% grade isn't going to cause the problems of a hard left turn.

The traditional mounting for a 32/36 or 5200 or 350/500 Holley on log head sixes is sideways. Its simple and neat that way. The downside is that the fuel is starved from the float bowl under what is termed 'hard cornering'. These days, hard corning in a Mustang is moderate cornering for modern cars.


The Capri 2600 and 2800 engines ran a similar carb set up, and didn't suffer starvation during conrnering,. The difference is the carb was in the centre of the car, not off the side, so the roll centre was where the carb is. On our sixes, even a moderate turn can make the carb freefall a few inches downward during a left-hand turn, while the fuel is leaning at a 45 degree angle, way from the jets.


Fuel starvation is common to all Fords with stock 1-bbls carbs on the I6. If you use new shock absobers, it will have less starbvation . With stiff springs and good tires, it only gets worse.

Over here, all our Aussie Fords and Holdens I6's suffered from fuel surge until about 1982, when Rochester and Weber carbs were used, mounted with the float bowl to the front of the car.

When our tourng car racers used side mounted Holley 2-bbls carb in the sixties on Falcons and Holdens, they were pretty useless as the fuel surge only got worse. Spending a few hundred bucks on a fuel regulator and a surge free electric centifugal fuel pump helps, but it's not a certain to work.

(Later Holley electric or mechanical pumps don't povide a seamless fuel delivery, nor do Carter mechanical pumps, but some of the cheap Carter, Nipondenso or Isuzu electric pumps can improve things if they are wired up safely).


The only sure fire way to remove starvation is to mount the carb with the float bowl to the front. The Holley 350 and 500 carbs can have jet extenders and float conversions which help a lot, but there is nothing for the 2-bbl Holley Weber 5200 or 32/36.

Some improvement might come from experimenting with 200 bucks of hard earned cash for


1. a 12-804 Holley pressure regulator close to the carb,

2. a Carter 4070 electric pump.


That will stop any fuel surge from the pump and fuel line, and ensure the float bowl is instantly replenshed if the seat valve opens suddenly.
 
xecute,

I'm with you on all that, but the problem I'm having is the other way around, and it doesn't take too hard a corner to make it stumble - pretty much ANY left-hand turn will do it, the harder the corner the bigger the stumble.

My float bowl is to the left of the throttle, the main jets are on the right side of the bowl, so I'm not uncovering them - if anything, they're getting flooded out on a left turn (overfilling the fuel wells / emulsion tubes?).

I'd turn the carb bowl-forward, but then wouldn't it stumble every time I accellerated?

I'm going to really lower the float this evening and see what happens. The spec is 40-41mm (depending on which source), so I'm going to try 45mm and see.
 
There maybe something electical to it. First port of call is ignition check.

Fuel starvation can feel the same as electrical issues.

A loose contact causing an open circuit can feel like the fuel cutting out. I had an old Morris 1100 (Austin America) which had water in the fuel, and it did that!

The best option is to hook up a rev counter or multimeter to the low tension part of the ignition and try to copy the situation in a safe area. If its electircal, the ignition signal will go dead, no 12 or 7 volt supply will get through. In my old DG equiped Cortina, any igniton issue would make the rev counter needle drop like a fly in the frost.


Check ignition and electical system with a fine tooth comb first, then go to the carb.
 
The European made DGAV 32/36 should be mounted like this. This is my Cortina 2 liters one

IMG_0023.jpg


Mounting it the 90 degrees the other way is the first problem.

Check water in fuel, ignition, battery earthing, and then do some checks on the fuel system last.
 
Ignition is dead on, doublechecked it this morning just in case.

Had the float height at 40mm, reset it to 42, stumble got better (lessened it). Reset float height to 44, stumble gone (except on a really violent left, and even then it's hard to turn the wheel that fast.) No noticeable stumble on hard right turns either, so I'm not uncovering the main jets.

No other effect on carb operation that I can tell, no lean stumbles on acceleration at different rates. Since most sources say 41mm, I'm going to act like 3mm under is just fine for now, and watch the plugs and fuel mileage.

So: My conclusion is that a sideways mounted Weber on our engines (float bowl to the driver's side) requires a lower float height (less fuel in the bowl), instead of the higher float height (more fuel in the bowl) that most sources/books call for.
 
Wow, that's an interesting finding. I jsut got my garage back after 18 months of housing construction during which my contractor took over every available inch of garage. Now I can go back to the eternal task of tuning my ride. I'll have to try this.
 
If you run the plastic floats, you can go down to 35 mm, if its brass, 41 mm is recomended.

As noted, fuel surge is greater in cornering than in acceleration. When you mount the carb sideways, then the fuel surge looks like it over runs the carb.

Great work!
 
><((((º>":28o9ow4o said:
If you run the plastic floats, you can go down to 35 mm, if its brass, 41 mm is recomended...

...Great work!
Thanks - Love your new username!

Actually, the 35mm is a higher fuel level (float closer to the top) - I made the same mistake last week and set my brass float to that plastic spec (thinking it would be "down"), and at the slightest left turn (or banked road) it would gag and puke.

Ain't these old cars fun? :lol:
 
James-
Just curious about an update- are you still stall free on the left turns? And did the the change in float level have any effect on lean/rich fuel mixture?
Thanks!
 
It's good except on a really hard left it'll try and stall, but I'm a pretty laid-back driver. If I recall, I've got the float set a good bit below even the lowest Weber setting.
 
is your coil mounted horizontally?. on some old chryslers, with horizontally mounted coils, going around left turns would force the oil away from the windings and actully cause the engine to stumble, might be the case here.
 
My coil is mounted vertically in the stock position. My stumble is definately carb-related.
 
I've got the same problem you are having. Only mine happens on right hand turns. It has been happening for the past year or so. I've messed with everything. Now I'm pretty much just used to it, I've learned how to drive it like is. Mine will actually surge a little bit when going a constant 25 or 30 mph. If I hold the pedal steady to hold the speed constant I can feel the engine surge a little, then stop then surge a little then stop (by stop I mean normal, no surge).


BTW, I just drove the car from Abilene, Tx to Biloxi, Ms! Cruise control helped A LOT! I left the first day of the Ice storm, drove the first hour east at 30 mph 8) Sliding around the whole way. East of Dallas I was out of the Ice and hit rain the rest of the way :x
 
ledition":agi7f2k8 said:
...BTW, I just drove the car from Abilene, Tx to Biloxi, Ms! Cruise control helped A LOT! I left the first day of the Ice storm, drove the first hour east at 30 mph 8) Sliding around the whole way. East of Dallas I was out of the Ice and hit rain the rest of the way :x
Uuf-Dah! Bet that was quite a drive! We all just stayed home and roasted marshmallows in the fireplace for a couple of days. :lol:

Sorry to hear yours is still acting up. For a variety of reasons, I'm thinking of going back to an 1100 1-bbl carb. You interested in a Weber setup?
 
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