Pull the line off going to the carb, stick a hose on the end of it, and put it in a bucket. Get someone to crank the engine, and you should get strong spurts of gas going into the bucket.
If that's good, hook the the line back up to the carb, and then crank it a little bit. Then take the plastic handle of a screwdriver and peck on top of the carb housing. Move the throttle back and forth without cranking, and if you have fuel, you should see if squirt down into the engine when you move the throttle.
of course. A sanity sandwhich always helps.cmm24601":f6g6z8j8 said:Funny you should say that... I do have very poor idle. Shakey like a vacuum leak. Can I use a smoke test on the brake booster?
mark_hagen":f6g6z8j8 said:Long time since my original post...found two things. 1) brass tee fitting on intake manifold for brake booster and vacuum canister had a hairline crack on the underside. 2) PCV valve letting too much air to pass through at idle. The store bout PCV valves have spring tensions set for a stock motor. After researching how to select a PCV valve for a modified engine, I purchased and installed a Wagner Adjustable PCV valve (Not cheap). This valve has two circuits; an idle circuit and an off-idle circuit. Once installed, turning the idle adjustment screw made the engine idle smooth out. No more idle circuit problems.
cmm24601":3lrr8efj said:Not the brake booster. Process of elimination. I disconnected the hose from the manifold to the brake booster and plugged it while the engine was running. Still had the shakes.
Is the float level different on an automatic? If so what should it be?