Stroked, and turbo'd
- Thread starter fast64ranchero
- Start date
fast64ranchero
Well-known member
asmart
don't worry about hitting water jackets, I drilled and tapped for 3/8" course thread bolts, I plan on dyno tuning this setup then at a later date after the alum head is completed by the porter, doing the same thing, although it might be a month or so, seems nothing is fitting, well the motor mounts fit other then that, I have to remake the K frame brace, (my oil pan hits slightly) remake the trans X-member, (TKO mount is further back) not sure what to do with the trans mount (it is to high and makes the trans hit the floor pan) on the brite side all the work I did on the intake paid off, as Jim Carrie says it "Fits like a glove"
don't worry about hitting water jackets, I drilled and tapped for 3/8" course thread bolts, I plan on dyno tuning this setup then at a later date after the alum head is completed by the porter, doing the same thing, although it might be a month or so, seems nothing is fitting, well the motor mounts fit other then that, I have to remake the K frame brace, (my oil pan hits slightly) remake the trans X-member, (TKO mount is further back) not sure what to do with the trans mount (it is to high and makes the trans hit the floor pan) on the brite side all the work I did on the intake paid off, as Jim Carrie says it "Fits like a glove"
fast64ranchero
Well-known member
Asmart, I thought I answered your ? but I guess not, if you look at the picture on the head you'll see what looks like smaller bolt holes those smaller bolt holes are the remains of the counter sunk allen head screws (14, 3/8" course thread bolts) I used to bolt the plate to the head, did I hit water? yes, do I care that I hit a water passage? NO!!!! IT DOES NOT MATTER!!!! the bolts are sealed and never ever coming out (I hope) the plate is drilled and tapped for 3/8" course thread bolts, these holes stop at the head, these bolts (used to bolt intake to head) do not penatrate the head and are only in the plate itself. I did the best I could to copy a Hot Rod art. from (if I remember right) 1964
fast64ranchero
Well-known member
Opps that should have read 20 bolts I found more pics,
tjnavyblue
Well-known member
How much did those CP pistons run you? $700+ for the JE pistons is a little rich for my blood, but forged pistons sure are nice insurance.
Did you have any more info on the Jeep rods/Chevy 305 pistons? That sounds like an interesting combo.
Did you have any more info on the Jeep rods/Chevy 305 pistons? That sounds like an interesting combo.
tjnavyblue":1i083kj5 said:
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37644&highlight=chevy+pistons read that thread, its one I started awhile ago but has some pretty good info on some piston options.
fast64ranchero
Well-known member
OK Gents it runs!!!!! 
on the first trip out I blow the head gasket right out of the # 4 hole, two hours later it was fixed and back on the road, (much richer and less timing) it's not tuned yet and I must say it runs very hard!!!!!! my Ranchero made 433hp to the wheels and runs 11.2's all day long, and I think this little 6 motor (10lbs boost) in my Fairmont is faster, the cam comes in alittle late but makes for much less tire spin on take off, I'm putting it on the dyno but that has to wait till pay day as this thing has been a money pit, my alum head is at the porters getting worked, when I get it back it will go on with a copper head gasket,
on the first trip out I blow the head gasket right out of the # 4 hole, two hours later it was fixed and back on the road, (much richer and less timing) it's not tuned yet and I must say it runs very hard!!!!!! my Ranchero made 433hp to the wheels and runs 11.2's all day long, and I think this little 6 motor (10lbs boost) in my Fairmont is faster, the cam comes in alittle late but makes for much less tire spin on take off, I'm putting it on the dyno but that has to wait till pay day as this thing has been a money pit, my alum head is at the porters getting worked, when I get it back it will go on with a copper head gasket, Copper headgasket and boost. 
It doesn't look like you O-ringed the block?
The copper gasket will work still but you'll need to ensure a better seal then just the gasket.
Just from experience with this;
"Copper spray" doesn't work very well.
"Disk Brake Quiet" doesn't work to well either.
"Yamabond" won't stay in place.
The best results for us so far is to use "Great Stuff" silicon. It's the $14 stuff that comes in either a pressurized can or in a caulking gun configuation. Get the caulking gun tube, it lasts longer!
Cover the entire gasket on the bottom side with a thin coat. Install gasket onto the block. Coat the top side. Put on the head. Wait about 15 minutes then start torqueing the head down.
Oh and Congrats on getting it running!!!arty:
Now go forth and commense the V8 slaughter!
Later,
Will
It doesn't look like you O-ringed the block?
The copper gasket will work still but you'll need to ensure a better seal then just the gasket.
Just from experience with this;
"Copper spray" doesn't work very well.
"Disk Brake Quiet" doesn't work to well either.
"Yamabond" won't stay in place.
The best results for us so far is to use "Great Stuff" silicon. It's the $14 stuff that comes in either a pressurized can or in a caulking gun configuation. Get the caulking gun tube, it lasts longer!
Cover the entire gasket on the bottom side with a thin coat. Install gasket onto the block. Coat the top side. Put on the head. Wait about 15 minutes then start torqueing the head down.
Oh and Congrats on getting it running!!!
arty: Now go forth and commense the V8 slaughter!
Later,
Will
fast64ranchero
Well-known member
I could not stand it and put it on the chassi dyno tonight, I was still finding power but at only 10 psi boost the motor made 345hp at 4900rpm and 390 ft lbs at 4000rpm the best part is it made over 350 ft lbs from 2700 to 5000 rpm which is the rpm the motor just goes south, I really thought it would turn to 6k but boy was I wrong, ok now for the bad part, I broke it at the dyno snapped the timing chain, (at least that is what I hope) the cam no longer turns, time to tear it apart and find out the damage, I wish the porter was done with the alum head would be a good time to put it on....
snapped the timing chain, (at least that is what I hope) the cam no longer turns, time to tear it apart and find out the damage, I wish the porter was done with the alum head would be a good time to put it on....fast64ranchero
Well-known member
I think they're good numbers, I think I can make another 100hp at 15 lbs of boost, and the new alum head should make for a very nice sleeper that is if it's, not a total loss I don't think it is, but ya never know
should make for a very nice sleeper that is if it's, not a total loss I don't think it is, but ya never knowFast,
You got me all excited. I went out to the garage and worked on mine. I come back and you're broke. Dang! Hopefully, with a taste of Ford 6 turbo power, you'll get it back together quick. We've all been through it. Stuff happens.... I noticed that you're using the 1" wide timing chain. Ak Miller recommended the earlier 5/8" wide chain. Less centrifugal force. Let us know what you find out when you tear it down.
Are you using alcohol injection?
Good luck.
You got me all excited. I went out to the garage and worked on mine. I come back and you're broke. Dang! Hopefully, with a taste of Ford 6 turbo power, you'll get it back together quick. We've all been through it. Stuff happens.... I noticed that you're using the 1" wide timing chain. Ak Miller recommended the earlier 5/8" wide chain. Less centrifugal force. Let us know what you find out when you tear it down.
Are you using alcohol injection?
Good luck.
fast64ranchero
Well-known member
Drag. no meth/water injection yet, I just wanted to get the jetting sorted out, time will tell but I think I can make some real good numbers when everything comes together, thanks for the tip on the chain, I'll pull it apart tonight and see what happened...
fast64ranchero
Well-known member
OK I got it apart and the lower gear (crank gear) broke, the cam seems to turn fine, so I figure one of two things happend, either the balancer bolt came loose or the cam seized up, now if the cam seized one would think it would have stayed seized, which leads me to believe I never got the balancer bolt tight, I'll check it over, install a new timing set, and timing cover (it now has extra holes) and do a comp. test, to see if I bent valves.......... if any of you guys have a diff idea on what happened I'd love to hear it......
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