stubborn damper pulley bolt

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I'm trying to get the crank out of a 77' 200, but the damper bolt will not break free. We tried an impact, breaker bars, and heat. Is there something I am missing? We tried both directions in case it was reverse threaded. Anyone had this problem? The torque specs looked like it was only 45-50 ft.lbs for this bolt, so it shouldn't be so tuff. Anyways, any tips or advice would be great.
 
A lot of people suggest putting a breaker bar against the frame and bumping the starter to get it broken loose.

I've never had problems though.

Bob
 
thanks for the reply. but the engine is on the stand with everything else removed, except the crank and cam.
 
I used the biggest wrench i could find along with liberal use of the BFH :twisted: came lose after a few good swings
 
First off it is NOT a left handed thread, so still implies, "righty-tighty,lefty- loosey", and the torque is more like 85 to 100 ft.lbs.. Put the flywheel back on and use a big flat-headed screwdriver to put inbetween the teeth and a fixed point on the block. This will stop the crank from rotating. Did you try heating the damper bolt with a torch or tapping/hitting it with a hammer? Heat and vibrations do wonders to stuck bolts, GOOD LUCK.

Kirk
 
Six point impact socket, ½" drive, shortest extension longest breaker bar.

One person supports the socket and pushes it hard onto the bolt head. The other hits the breaker bar with sharp hits. That is the key; hard, sharp strikes with a 3 pound or larger hammer.

Cheers, Adam.
 
turn motor upside down on stand so you are looking at the bottom end. find a hunk of wood that you can wedge in between the crank and the block skirt use this to lock the motor while you work on it with a pry bar. I have even had luck using a length of steel pipe (1.25" or so in DIA) and getting it wedged in the bottom end nicely so that I could use that and the breaker bar to pull them together to get it loose.

the other trick I have used is to put in 2 crank bolts for teh flywheel (helps to have some spares) and put a bg wrench on one of them that is turned in most of the way. then put the second in about halfway so you can lock the wrench against it. This also works good with a long square prybar bewteen the bolts and let it stop against your engine stand. I have never really had any problems getting a six balancer off.....now a 2.3L one is a different story (they are outside the crank seal so like to rust solid...bolts out easy but pulley stuck there
 
I had the same problem with my 250- out of the car and on the stand. I did not have propane in my garage si I could not use heat. The people on this forum came up with lots of helpful suggestions. When I tried an inpact wrench it did not work for me and broke the wrench... What worked was to put bolts in the flywheel and then I used a very long box end wrench with one end over the bolt head and the ther end resting against the edge of the stand. This made the crank impossible to rotate. Then I liberally applied WD40 each night to the damper bolt, and pushed as hard as I could on the bolt using a socket and breaker bar. I was literally sitting on the bar trying to get the bolt loose. I did this 4 or 5 days in row and it eventually came loose. I was very close to giving up- so hang in there!
 
I used my impact wrench and it came right off. I guess it just depends on the condition of your tools as well as the condition of your engine and whether the last person who put it all together knew what they were doing or not.
 
the block was frozen on the one i pulled off, so i had no trouble with the engine turning :?
 
Thank you for the replies. I've been spraying Break Free on it periodically, and I am going to try again tonight with a longer steel breaker bar. The first time we tried it, I had the engine on the stand, bolts where the flywheel goes and thick steel screw driver wedged between the bolts and the stand. Then used a breaker bar on the pulley bolt and was amazed when it did not break free. The tools themselves were bending and flexing. Anyways, thanks again for the replies and hopefully I can get it removed tonight.
 
IMPACT. Even if you don't have a rattle gun, it is the shock of a sudden hard blow that loosens the bolt. If you can see the bar bending, you are taking too long to deliver the blow.

Last two I popped loose were done with no blocking or wedging, engines on the ground with no trans or flywheel. So I think my method works. :wink: Hit hard, hit fast, hit confidently and hit many times. It will come free.
 
A good stout box end wrench (preferably 6 point) and a 2-3 lb hammer. And as Addo said hit hard and fast. Not a good place for a torch unless you plan on replaceing all seals and gaskets nearby also possible warping of nearby covers (timing cover). Impact will shock it loose --lots of simple tourgue (breaker bars and extensions) will stretch/ break bolts and threads. With the impact it really isn't even necessary to lock down the crank.
 
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