Takes too long to start the inline six when it's cold

[atticmustang]

So, it's getting pretty cold here in Belgium.
I keep my 1966 inline six mustang in the garage, but starting it up is a pain, compared to how it did a month ago.

Will electronic ignition fix this?
Any other tips?

 

[Explorer]

While electronic ignition does help with quicker starts, it's not a fix. Sounds like you just need to adjust the choke.

 

[CobraSix]

Electronic ignition may help.

Probably the root problem is the carb. You may need to richen the idle mix a hair. It's what I have to do to drive in the winter when it's below freezing. Check and verify your choke operation.

Also, try one more pump of the gas pedal (I go from 2 to 3 during the winter).

Regards,

 

[JackFish]

Just pump the gas until it goes. Keep feathering the gas after it starts and wants to die.

 

[atticmustang]

Thanks for the advice guys!

I already pump the gas a couple of times and it doesn't seem to make a big difference.
I'll check the choke!

 

[Explorer]

Easy enough to check. Before you do anything, pull the air cleaner and move the accelerator linkage and you should see the choke close. If not, loosen the screws and turn the plastic cap till it does close with the linkage open.

 

[mugsy]

I thought the stock carbs for FoMoCo's required the throttle to be held down 1/3 way and then the engine cranked per the owner's manual? The "pump it twice and leave it" is more of a GM/Rochester thing, I thought? That's what was in my '65 Owner's Manual if my poor memory serves me correctly.

In my experience, a hard starting in cold temperature problem is a choke issue. Mostly the choke not "choking" enough. Tell us what you see and we'll try to help you out.

 

[echo1955]

Thanks for the advice guys!

I already pump the gas a couple of times and it doesn't seem to make a big difference.
I'll check the choke!

When you pump the pedal does it hit the floor. To start a cold engine from a worm stop the first pedal pump should go all the way to the floor.
That action should set the choke.

Then add a couple for good measure..

 

[ludwig]

If you are using a stock carb of the era, you start it by FIRST pushing the pedal all the way to the floor once and letting up on it. That sets the choke. THEN you turn the starter and flutter the gas if need be.

Depressing it 1/3 of the way is the 80's forward technique.

BTW, if it stands a long time between use, the gas itself may by separating.

ADDED: ooooh. Got me there Echo

 

[atticmustang]

Really useful tips! Thanks guys.
I'll try it out in a couple of hours and see if it works.

 

[mugsy]

If you are using a stock carb of the era, you start it by FIRST pushing the pedal all the way to the floor once and letting up on it. That sets the choke. THEN you turn the starter and flutter the gas if need be.

Depressing it 1/3 of the way is the 80's forward technique.

BTW, if it stands a long time between use, the gas itself may by separating.

ADDED: ooooh. Got me there Echo

OK, right there in my 1965 Owner's Manual (repop) on page 52:
"COLD STARTING- To operate the automatic choke and fast idle, first press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and then release it all the way. On the eight-cylinder engine, leave the pedal in the released position. On a six cylinder engine, position the pedal about one-third of its travel to the floor (Emphasis in original text)

 

[ludwig]

Okay, so I got my decades jumbled in two places. You still set the choke FIRST.

 

[Explorer]

No matter what the procedure, you usually wind adjusting the choke twice a year(winter and summer).

 

[CobraSix]

No matter what the procedure, you usually wind adjusting the choke twice a year(winter and summer).

I know I have to. I also have to adjust my timing slightly for a little more advance in the winter.

 

[bigblue91]

No matter what the procedure, you usually wind adjusting the choke twice a year(winter and summer).

I know I have to. I also have to adjust my timing slightly for a little more advance in the winter.

I do all those and back out the idle mixture screw (richen) in the winter when it starts hitting 30 below. helps smooth it out in the cold

 

[Lazy JW]

Hmmmmm......... reckon I'm not doing something right, or perhaps I'm just too dumb to notice; I set my chokes on a nice day when it's right at 65º-70º and set it to where it just almost but not quite is closed, like just a few thou from being shut tight. Then when the weather gets colder, it "automatically" closes tighter. Hmmmm, almost as though it were designed that way, eh And when it gets warmer, it doesn't set quite so tight, hence less choking action. I dunno, but I've had them run to my satisfaction like that without adjustment for several years and tens of thousands of miles on various vehicles in northern Idaho where the weather varies from -20º F to 100F.
Joe

 

[69.5Mav]

in the winter when it starts hitting 30 below.

In Kentucky?

I set my chokes on a nice day when it's right at 65º-70º and set it to where it just almost but not quite is closed

I'm with Joe on this that's how I set my chokes.

So, it's getting pretty cold here in Belgium.

I believe there are three systems involved in starting your car. The carb and fuel system. The ignition system. The starter motor and battery.

Taken individually.

The carb should have a properly working and adjusted choke, an accelerator pump that delivers enough gas when fully pumped to prime the engine and an idle circuit that car deliver enough gas to keep the car running once started. The fuel system must be free of obstructions, kinked hoses and plug fuel filters.

The ignition system must be capable of delivering a high enough intensity spark at the right time to ignite the fuel mix in the cylinder.

The battery must have sufficient charge to spin the engine at a reasonable rpm. The started motor must be able to accept the energy from the battery and convert it into rotational energy in the engine.

A few other points

Old oil can become quite thick and make the engine harder to spin loading down the battery and reducing the voltage to the ignition system weakening the spark. If the oil is old change it for the proper weight oil for the climatic conditions you are experiencing. An oil dipstick heater and or a coolant heater can help with cold starts.

Batteries can loss capacity at cold temperatures when they get older so make sure to have a battery that has enough reserve to "pull the load". Battery heaters can also help with this.

So to recap you carb must have a good fuel supply, a working accelerator pump, a working choke and a working idle circuit. Your ignition system should be able to deliver a high intensity spark at the right time and lastly or maybe first your battery starter motor must be able to spin the engine briskly and still leave enough battery voltage for the ignition system.

If any of these systems is not up to snuff you could have trouble starting the car. If more then one is deficient you will have a tough time starting the car.

These points assume that your engine is mechanically sound.