The Best 250 Header!

I own a 74 Ford Maverick with Factory A/C. I'm curious as to what kind of headers I can run without too much of a clearance issue. Before, Mike passed away, I had purchased the 2-v conversion and went through with it. So in addition to the 2-v conversion I also have the 77/78 big valve head and the port divider installed. I'm running an autolite 2100/2300. Everything is virtually done except for exhaust. So, I've looked and all that is available at the moment is Clifford, but Clifford has a few choices, I'm trying to figure out which one is the best/or better for my car.



thanks guys!
 
I don't know if they will fit but Hooker is making the 6601 again. Saw it on Summit I think.
 
The Hookers have a 1 1/2" primary pipe & long primaries. This header would make more low & midrange torque.
I believe they would be your best choice.
 
. There are a few offshore cheap headers available on Ebay, Pony Cars, etc that fit a 200 as well as the Clifford when actually available. Not much fits the 250. I have a set of Maverick 250 - Hooker - 6602 long tube dual out headers but they don't fit the 200 hi-mount starter. the 6602's fit the taller deck - low starter 250 in my '61. The Hookers are not easily available, if CI headers for your app' are available from remaining stock, it would be worth finding out .

Mustangs Unlimited IF actually available are typical among cheaper vendors headers.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy ... T1=BA55+01


6601's and 250 6602's:
. .



'picked this set of no-name 200 headers with custom port divider on local CL for $75, from another V8 conversion...

. .

have fun

hey BenLMoody - 'heres my '74 Maverick 250 - stock , for now...
 
That's some great info powerband. I've been in this dilemma myself. I Have a 90's 300 smaller starter for the 250 but still not sure what will actually clear. My friend, stanyon on here, tried one of the cheap stainless ebay headers on his high mount 200 and it was a no go. But I'm still wondering if the taller deck of the 250 w/ the small starter is a go.... Unfortunately he's on the other side of the sate so I can't just drop by and borrow it to check and pictures and measurements only go so far when it's close :(
 
During my current 250 build I've talked to two knowledgeable men around here. The other guy ports heads for living (and did my alum head too) and the other guy is very know for welding custom headers for all kinds of cars, especially rally cars. They both have a lot of experience with inline 6 BMW engines, too.

Both are talking pretty much the same stories. The Ford 200/250 headers out there are too short and probably due to clearance issues engineered to be not so powerful. They say the headers should be 6-2-1 design, with the primaries about 70cm/27.5" in length, then the secondaries 40cm/15.75" and then the two secondaries MUST join to ONE pipe.

Well, I didn't argue as I know what they have done, and I'll get my Classic Inlines vintage 10year old dual out headers modified accordingly with the welder guy. At this point I don't have to care about fitment to a car as there is no car for the engine...it is enough that it fits the dyno.
 
BenLMoody":1zp3fm8t said:
I own a 74 Ford Maverick with Factory A/C. I'm curious as to what kind of headers I can run without too much of a clearance issue. Before, Mike passed away, I had purchased the 2-v conversion and went through with it. So in addition to the 2-v conversion I also have the 77/78 big valve head and the port divider installed. I'm running an autolite 2100/2300. Everything is virtually done except for exhaust. So, I've looked and all that is available at the moment is Clifford, but Clifford has a few choices, I'm trying to figure out which one is the best/or better for my car.



thanks guys!


What Hooker and ebay header suppliers have failed to remember is that A/C is mandatory in most parts of the US and a header that fails to accomdate stock starters, A/C units and engine bays is useless.

No headers will fit the Ford six with any kind of passenger side 6 3/4" York/Borg~Warner/Tecumseh/SelectaireYork or Motorcraft Air Conditioning in its stock condition. You have to shift the A/C outwards like pikesans,

/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19664&p=548690#p548690
pikesan":1zp3fm8t said:
Here's what it looks like in my build. Made some stand-offs to move the alternator away from the header. Came out pretty good! The longer belt needs to be about 1/2" shorter, but other than that, it's time to clean and paint.

ac-alt-setup.jpg


It looks like the alternator is still sitting on the header. It's just the angle. There's 4" between them.



or make a customer header like Stomin'Norman's.

/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72938

On S-chassis cars (Foxes), the engine bay is too narrow to shift the A/c unit out. On the other Falcon based (X chassis) cars, there is room to space the A/C or A/C, Alternator combination. With a swap over to the early dealer accessory postion (drivers side) it won't get in the way.

The Argentina made Falcon MaxEccono 3.0 (ME 188) and Speciale Performance 3.6 liter (SP 221) had the Fox era V8 A/C unit on the driver side, with an overslung cast iron braket to support it. So the Argentine LTD and later Falcons in the 1988-1991 era had the same A/C unit






The Fox Mustang 5.0 engines used this in the Sequntial Speed Density EFI era from 1986 to 1991




/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=67132
/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67303&p=515209#p515209
 
Some great information. It sounds like the hooker 6602, is the bees knees, but either way the A/C will have to be adjusted accordingly (It doesn't work anyway, so it's no super crucial). Unfortunately those headers are a pain to find. How do the classic inline headers perform? Any information on these, Will they clear the low mount? I emailed to see if there were any left.

thanks a bunch fellas.
 
w/the 250 I'll use the V6 'stang (smaller) starter ('80s?, '90s? I forget), sorry no AC but plow pump, compressor (on-board air), etc…

No choices on long tube vs shorties?
Which R in the remaining CI inventory?
 
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