The carb is off!!!!

hickorystang

Well-known member
I pulled my carb off tonight. Honestly, with my non-vast knowledge of carbs, and from everything I have read from you guys, it appears fine. The one thing that is odd, and this was my mistake, was that when I inverted the float bowl (checking to see if the floats touch the straight edge (figure 1 on carb rebuild adjustments) the pump ball weight fell out onto the rag on my work bench. I did not see the pump ball anywhere. Again, could have fallen on the ground... First question... would the absence of the pump ball cause the lack of acceleration (floats test looked good by the way)?

And now that I have the dang thing off, what do you guys recommend I check? What would be a good test of the dang power valve?

This thing is gonna get fixed this weekend... Or go in the recycling bin one
 
The accellerator pump won't work without the check ball becauseit will draw in air from the throttle body instead of gas from the bowl. Without a proper accelerator pump function, yor car won't accelerate worth crap.
 
Check ball should be included in a new rebuild kit. Might even be an extra part or two depending on the model.
You'll want to pull all old check ball or other parts anyway for proper cleaning; whether that's with a magnet or simply turning the bowl upside down it should still happen. Recommend a good, clean, flat workspace with a clean shop rag to catch anything/everything for the latter, mainly for inspection and comparison purposes. And if you've never been through this particular model before, also recommend a good perusal of the exploded view diagram before doing anything else. (Also usually included with the rebuild kit, if a manual is unavailable.)

Be careful during reassembly:
- Not all check ball or other part measurements are the same. Pay attention to sizes and placement when replacing old parts with new. If diameters are obviously different in the reassembly instructions, use a micrometer even if they look the "same" to be sure all is getting to the right place. This can make huge differences in performance, and incorrect placement could even keep the carb from operating altogether.
- Do replace all parts available from the rebuilt kit, even if they don't "look" like they need replacement. I can't stress this enough. I think everyone's done it. You're tempted to "save parts" or "be conservative" in this area. (At least I have been.) "I'll use that new needle later, mine's fine." "These old check ball and rod parts look fine. I might as well save the new ones for when I really need them." ....Don't. ...Don't fall in to this time-trap. Trust me, you'll get the whole thing back together, and something won't be right or it won't flow at all or it flows too much and no adjustment solves the issue. And you're sitting there thinking, "dammit, I had the chance to replace that [part], and I didn't do it. Back to the workbench." A rebuilt kit is, what, fifteen, twenty bucks at the most? (Yeah, I know you racing guys pay lots more.) What's your time worth having to rebuild carbs over and over? The point: cheap insurance. Also, those new parts you're "saving" in the kit - when exactly are you going to use those again? ...That's right, probably never. Do yourself a favor and use them now. Look at it this way, you could be preventing the next component failure without even knowing it.
 
Thanks guys. Am heading home to put the carb back together. Hopefully this whole thing was just the result of me completely forgetting to put that dang ball back in... Will let you all know!!!
 
Putting the carb back together (with check ball this time). Got a question about the accelerator pump cup and the power valve piston assembly.

Does the pump cup go all the way into the well, or just at the top which would compress the spring?

And how can you ensure that the power valve piston head is on the power valve stem?

Thanks again,
Steven
 
If you have the accelerator pump is assembled correctly and you lightly lube the cup so it will side in. Than start the pump cup into the well it will go to the correct install height.
 
bubba22349":8zradofy said:
If you have the accelerator pump is assembled correctly and you lightly lube the cup so it will side in. Than start the pump cup into the well it will go to the correct install height.

Should the pump cup be put in the well first, then the stem and spring? I did put some lube on the pump cup when putting the carb back together, but the cup still appeared like it wasn't going into the well. It appeared that the whole assembly was being compressed.
 
Or, MPGmustang, if you PM me your email address I can send the pictures to you. Promise I won't fill your inbox with a bunch of mail.
 
On pictures you need an image posting service look at top of site pages for REGISTRATION TIPS, RULES & REGULATIONS, or HELP there is a sticky for images!
Post Topic Images, Signatures, and Avatars
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The accelerator pump should be completely assembled before going into the well. :nod:
 
Looks like you have it right, sometimes the pump cups are a little stiff to get started into the well :thumbup: :nod:
 
bubba22349":1st2gq7i said:
Looks like you have it right, sometimes the pump cups are a little stiff to get started into the well :thumbup: :nod:

How would I get it started, since the pump cup and assembly are on the float bowl cover and the well is on the float bowl? Would putting the two together with the pump cup essentially sitting on top of the well suffice?
 
I hold the cover above the carb body than use something to work the cup into the well. ie fingers tilt the cup a little to start one side push it in and or use a tool like a small flat blade screw driver anything you might have to work it around into the well.
 
bubba22349":2tk0jzlt said:
I hold the cover above the carb body than use something to work the cup into the well. ie fingers tilt the cup a little to start one side push it in and or use a tool like a small flat blade screw driver anything you might have to work it around into the well.

Wow, Holley sure didn't make it easy, did they?
 
I'm really of no help... usually it takes me 1hr to rebuild a carb I'm not used to, unless gummed up really bad then maybe let it soak over night. after that just slap it together the same way I took it off kinda ordeal. wish I could help more...
 
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