the little man with hammer

lyonsy

Well-known member
hey
need to stop pinging!
k ive back the timing off heaps (which helped enormosly as it ONLY does it at full throtle now) got 95 ron wiht nulon octane booster but its not enough getting 98ron bp ultimate with octane booster this week.
other things that i can do ?
ive been told that cause its a clased chamber head D that if its been shaved to much etc that could be causing it.
can the ridge's on the closed chamber heads cause pinging?
Also when it start pinging it starts blowing smoke this not look good to what ould be causing it or can this happen with pinging?
mark
 
Try a new thick copper head gasket .ACL make a head gasket in 2 sizes
and im sure 1 of them is a thick type which will decompress your engine slightly and stop the pinging.Have you had your dizzy regraphed ? this could help .
 
Head gaskets will solve the problem, but I'd suggest you forget going into your engine unless you have to.

Consensus says alloy heads with XF style chambers a detonation prone. So are any massively shaved stock heads from 1976 to 1993.

The best bet is to advance it back up to 40 degrees, add the vaccum advance, and run water injection.

If you have a post XE head, then there is a cutout in each intake port where the gasket sits. Any Falcon XD-to XF can take a massive 12 mm spacer, which can fit nitrous and water injection. I've made a few before, but have never had an engine that detonates becaseu I used to use Propane.

A performance engine is detonation limited. Lowering compression is against efficiency. A water injection unit can run off the blue Bosch MAP sensor used on EST Falcons. It is a poteniometer which can operate as a switch at a given vacum. It should be set up to add water at the votage which is equivalent to 3" Hg or vacuum. This can be done by a simple electronic circuit. As soon as the voltage drops, the water injection circuit triggers the humble Cortina screen washer bottle. Add six brass 1/8 bsp blanks with one 15 thou hole, angle drilled as per the bosche injector and run it off the stock hose.

There is 45 psi to be had, and it totally eliminates knock under wide open throttle. Nada, none, nil, nothing. It won't fail you as the normal Cortina unit uses two squirters with 20 thou holes, so it will operate under less pressure.

When the engine starts, the vacuum will drop, and water will pore in via the winscreen washer, so there must be a 5 second power dealy relay to avoid that happening.

As for bull crappers who say water injection is a crock, let them spend money on high octane, mechanical advance dissys which loose enoght part throttle economy to make you wish you had a V8, and to other gear which solves problems for a bigger cash outlay.

At high revs, the water injection will drop power, but it won't pop pistons, gaskets, or cause crank bearing and cam failure. If you want power gains as well, get a spare washer bottle and water pump as a standby, and add 600 mls of methanol to each 600 ml of water, and two teaspoons of PVC pipe acetone. Taht will allow a lot of advance.

Thirdly, there is a piezo electric knock sensor on the last XF Falcons, which bolts to the front battery terminal on front right. It retards the spark on EST engines. That can be used as a trigger for water injection.

The systems are there, they just need to be used.


My experience with H20 injection is from a 4080 pound Pontiac Formula 454, which ran 46 degress advanace, did 13.6 second quarters at 100 mph, and ran stock cast pistons and a Quadrajet 800 cfm carb. No detonation, no avagas, no problems. Another guy ran a homebuilt system on his Cortina 2000, chronic detonation was eliminated.


Deano
 
hey
thanks xtaxi (dean) i was thinking of running water injection on it but iam trying to have it look reasonable stock when a cop lifts the bonnet as iam still on p plates and they properly say its nos (even though i wish it was :twisted: ).
iam not sure how th vac advance unit whould go but when the engine is not reving i got no brakes (no vacume) as it has a bit of a cam but not a hugh one.
but i got the ping out of it for now at least so i can get it to melbourne and have ractors fitted and get it dynoed to check the mixtures etc and timing.
the high octane stuff with a booster nilly got back the timing off a bit more and it worked :)
and yeah price etc gunna kill me but i jsut wanna drive it for a while before i get into it again (plus got no shed in about a month along with a torrana speedway car to build).
thanks for the help but
mark
 
xtaxi
What do you make these spacers from? Does it require the use of two gaskets either side of it? Is it OK to make one about 1.5 to 2.0 mm thick? Does it ruin the so called squish band?
Tim
 
You can package it with less than 12mm. Maybee about 8mm. if you see my old Falcon on http://www.kastang.net/ fsp/parkinglot.html


You can just see it here.

XECarbImpco.jpg
 
I just wanted to run 200 rods I have in the new rebuild of my 250 with the special ACL pistons as the extra dollars are not a real issue now. Problem is I wont be able to get it down to around the 9.0:1 comp I want with these pistons as they have a small dish . I was hoping that I may be able to make a thin spacer to do this?
Also I read somewhere than you can get more pinging with two head gaskets to reduce compression than with one as it effects the squish area which is said to the ideal at around 40 thou?
Oh well nevermind?
 
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