Timing lockout Duraspark dizzy

[lightnin-boy]

I thought I'd start a new thread about this.

Those of you who have installed turbos or superchargers, how are you handling the reduced timing requirement? Digging around the turbomustangs site there are two thoughts. Buy the boost retard controller or lockout the mechanical advance in the distributor and set the static timing for the maximum desired.

I was thinking that with the 13L weight in my distributor if I immobilized the heavier spring I could limit my overall mechanical advance to 13* and then I could set the static timing to 7* to get a total of 20*, and could advance the static timing if I could take more. Does this sound correct?

Kirk

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

can't beat a 6btm box. get adjustable boost retard and a revlimiter.

I think you could use a dual port advnce canister on the duraspark and with a little vac line trickery get it to retard with just that.

 

[hasa68mustang]

I am with turbofairlane200 about the revlimiter. I believe its saved my motor at least once. Same thing with 66sprint6, whether or not you go with the btm is your decision... I happened to pay 100 dollars for mine new in the box with a tfi harness adapter. For that price I couldnt pass it up. I personally havent run locked out timing so I couldnt tell you if it would be better.

 

[matt1967]

I think a MSD 6 BTM is your best bet, I'm building my turbo engine with 1, cost me over $400, but worth it I think, I don't have to mess with the distributor and I can adjust for ping from the drivers seat. I also bought the Duraspark II connector, which was $16, will allow everything to be plug and play

 

[kirkallen143]

For us that did it the old fashion way, was to weld up a section in the advance slot so it only gave you that much mech. advance. If you weld too much of a spacer in the slot you can always grind off what you need to get your desired total mech. advance. I have spaced/welded mine down to only 10* advance. Will (does10s) had done the same to his dizzy in the early years.

Even if you put the heavier springs in the dizzy it will still advance you 26* at the higher rpms.

The vacuum retard trickery only works for draw-thru turbo systems, I have tried it on my blow-thru and it ended up taking out another headgasket.

Just my $.02, Kirk.

 

[Does10s]

Just like Kirk Allen said above, we had our DSII adv. slot welded up so we'd only get a 10* sweep on the mech. adv. This worked well and it's obviously cheap.
We've recently have swapped to a (new) reman. DSII distributor and hooked it to a MSD BTM. It's a lot easier to change timing retard now. Just turn a knob! And we can run a better timing curve under normal, non-boosted, driving. Then under boost, it'll pull timing out per my specs.
Later,
Will

 

[lightnin-boy]

It really sounds like this MSD box is the ticket. I'll have to save some more pennies and buy one I guess... The timing advance is the one thing I over-looked when researching all of this, pitfall of being a FNG to the forced induction scene I suppose.

In reference to welding up the slot, in order to achieve a total of 10* advance, you would weld the slot up so it only allows a 5* sweep, correct?

I run a stock Duraspark module currently, there is a white wire that is used during start only that pulls 10* of timing while the started motor is actuated. I wonder if that may could be used here, if only as a bandaid until I get the right stuff.

Kirk

 

[matt1967]

It really sounds like this MSD box is the ticket. I'll have to save some more pennies and buy one I guess... The timing advance is the one thing I over-looked when researching all of this, pitfall of being a FNG to the forced induction scene I suppose.

In reference to welding up the slot, in order to achieve a total of 10* advance, you would weld the slot up so it only allows a 5* sweep, correct?

I run a stock Duraspark module currently, there is a white wire that is used during start only that pulls 10* of timing while the started motor is actuated. I wonder if that may could be used here, if only as a bandaid until I get the right stuff.

Kirk

that would work, as a band aid, you could always toggle switch it, for when you want the boost, running retarded timing on the street can cause engine wear