How do you tell if the timing marks on the balancer have slipped? Are there marks on it somewhere that should line up? I just purchased a timing light and was going to check timing. I have used a vacuum gauge and timed it for best vacuum at idle in the past. Is this the correct approach?
Timing marks and vacuum timing?
- Thread starter jimlj66
- Start date
What JackFish said. But start farther back. Find your true TDC mechanically with the finger-in-the-spark plug-hole/metal rod/screwdriver/string pack method (whichever you prefer). I like the finger in the #1 spark hole then verify with rod or screwdriver.
Once you have TDC for sure, THEN put a mark on your balancer. Now you can tune with a light. You can get very close with vacuum. The light will put you spot on. With a new line on the balancer, you can check every so often with a light to see if it has slipped.
Once you have TDC for sure, THEN put a mark on your balancer. Now you can tune with a light. You can get very close with vacuum. The light will put you spot on. With a new line on the balancer, you can check every so often with a light to see if it has slipped.
JackFish":1rk3x79u said:
My idle is rougher than I think it should be. If I have done it right, the reading I am getting with my vacuum gauge tells me I have a bit of a cam in my car. I get a variation between 13 and 14 inches of mercury reading. (I live at 6800' elevation so I think that is a fairly good reading) I know nothing about the engines internals other than it has 10 under size rod bearings in it, telling me at some point in it's life it may have been rebuilt. When I have the best vacuum reading at idle, the car seems to drive and run the best, but I still have a bit of a burble in my idle.
edit: A bit more information....
When I had the oil pan off and discovered the 10 under bearings, the timing chain seemed loose to me. Could this cause my vacuum reading?
depends on how loose the chain is but it would not help with your timing
