Timing question for DII dizzy?

[Anonymous]

I am moving this to it's own post, I had added it to the bottom of another post and I think it got overlooked...

I am running a DII setup, and I set the engine on -10BTDC that put the rotor right on the number one position... I was attempting to do a static timing making sure the rotor tang was inline with the magnetic post and according to the book the rotor should be between the rivets for correct advance... mine lines up right with the pickup. I have to rotate the dizzy towards the drivers fender to get the rotor between the rivets. then the tang does not line up.... does it sound like I am one tooth off...? does to me.. I am thinking I need to be one more tooth counterclockwise... I think I am on number one at -10bBTDC... am I making sense to someone? the thing is that little rotation from 0 to -10 does not move the rotor that much at all? it is pretty close to number one in that whole range.. so the can position is the major factor right?

(Still learning)

Always

 

[MustangSix]

At best, using that method, you can get close. But you'll need a timing light for the final adjustment. The vacuum canister should be in a position that allows a good range of adjustment, but it's irrelevant. It's all about the relationship of the distributor to the crank.

Pull the engine around to TDC on the firing stroke, get the rotor pointed at #1, and then set timing with the light.

 

[CobraSix]

I agree with jack, mainly because I do the same thing. Don't worry about where the canister points. I usually set my dizzy in so I can get a good range of motion, then I set my wires. My #1 wire right now is on the front of the dizzy (towards the radiator).

I set TDC with the rotor and go from there. If you don't have a light or going for your first start, I would err on the side of more advance.

Slade

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Hook up the timing light. Get the engine to stop with the timing marks at 10*. Turn on the ignition, but don't start the engine. Turn the dizzy back and forth until the light flashes. Tighten the dizzy down snug. Start the engine and proceed to set timing as normal.

 

[Anonymous]

RED, you are my hero....

The problem here is I cannot run the engine to set the timing... it has to be close for my 30 minute run-in.... after that I can time it all day and night.

I was reading through the process for static timing with the ignition off...
and for some reason I cannot get the right amount of advance but with Red's idea I can use the light with the engine not running and verify my placement for now.


Thanks guys I will try this once I finish running the rest of the wiring...
I have been wiring for six hours now... I am going to bed.
Tired and sore fingers.
(who's bright idea was it to replace all the wiring in this car... :roll: )

Thanks

Jimbo

 

[strat1960s]

I like red's idea too. I have had several fellow Air Force mechanics suggest the same thing. Here's my listtle twist on it. If I go with the Pertronix Ignitor II, will I be able to time it the same way?
Replacing wirring? If the Air Force would only ask me to rewire a few of our vehicles, I would be in 7th heaven. See, when you have a hundreds of vehicles and only a handful of mechanics, we each get to get our hands dirty on all of the vehicles. In other words, none of them are wired the same. I often get to go in there and try to figure out what the previous mechanic was thinking when he or she was wiring a system. Wiring is my all time favorite!