triple offy intake w/ C-4 trans?



Anyone here running a triple intake with an automatic? I'm curious how the kickdown for passing gear works, or is the tri power a manual trans only setup? I'd also like to know where I can buy the offy kit. Cliffords website isn't showing one I can find. Got a part # for it? There's one in the classifieds but the guy didn't answer my post. Thanx for the help.
This place has them, and they are cheaper than Clifford:

Here's the info. from Clifford:
1961-69 170-200 Offy Intake Manifold, p/n 43-2128 $ 289.00

1970-up 170-200-250 Offy Intake Manifold, p/n 43-2192 $ 289.00

Clifford insists (and very rudely, in my case) that you should only use their Weber carbs. They told me use to theirs or "suffer." I don't know about you, but that immediately turned me away from them. If I'm paying for something, I will put what I want on it.

But anyway, that could be another topic in itself :roll: (and has been, too!) ;)

I don't think that it would matter what trans. you're using. The stock kickdown linkage comes right off of the accelerator arm just inside the firewall. It isn't anywhere near the carb.

But, if it is a problem, you can always use a Lokar kickdown cable. That's what I'm using with my 1946.
how can u use one of them intakes if the stock ones are built right onto the head? or do you guys got one of the ones that are removeable
83FAIRMONT200I6":3ik07qqe said:
how can u use one of them intakes if the stock ones are built right onto the head? or do you guys got one of the ones that are removeable

bolt on the new intake for alignment, mark the holes, drill 2 new holes (one at each end) Then permanently bolt the whole thing on and install carbs/linkage/fuel lines.

46stude":3ik07qqe said:
I'm curious how the kickdown for passing gear works, or is the tri power a manual trans only setup?

You dont say what you plan on using this on. My '67 has an arm off the bottom of the Gas pedal assembly that activates the kickdown, then a vacuum line from the log to the vacuum modulator on the trans. My '68 has the same type of setup. Which wouldnt interfere with anything if I changed carbs, UNLESS I changed over to a cable type throttle linkage system, then I would have to re-engineer the whole damn thing.

I, too, looked into a triple set-up about 4-6 years ago. If I remember correctly, the total cost for the Offy adapter and three new carbs was about $800 to $1,000 :shock: . So it is still a dream, the car needs $ put into other places ;) . But wanting to go "low dough" as possible, besides the Holley carbs that Cliffy recommends, what size (CFM) and/or type of carbs can be used without over carb-ing the engine? I know this will also be based on cam selection, head type and exhaust size too, but can an upgraded engine handle three 1100's or what?


OBTW, right now the engine is stock, but I will be installing a rebuilt short block (she has a rod knock now) with a '77 250 head and Cliffy exhaust headers this spring. I can buy any cam I want, and willbe making that selection soon :D . It's a '65 Mustang with and Auto tranny :unsure: .
Thanx for the website address. I looked with searches on Google but had no luck at all. The Offy setup works by having your stock head/intake machined by a shop, which means removing it from the block. I have a big advantage in the fact my 250 is going in a Studebaker p/u. Clearances are alot bigger than a 60s & up car under the hood. According to the Falcon 6 Performance Handbook the smaller the cfm on the carbs the better. If I go this route, I'm going to use carbs off the 140 or 170 c.i. engines. I don't think the make of the carbs would be that big a deal, despite what Cliffy says. But I don't know everything involved yet. I think if it were the case, Offy would suggest the carbs-not Clifford. I'd love to have that "wow factor" of a souped up 6 with a tri-carbed setup in an old truck. :D
it is also recommended to run the 180cfm in the middle location and then run 2 smaller carbs on the outer locations. under idle and part throttle you will use the center 180. then at half throttle the outers will start to open and at WOT all are open. like a progressive setup.

I too have looked into this one!!
Come to think of it, I've heard that too. It makes sense. How many people actually run the tri power setup, though? I'm curious as to the performance in a real application. Is it a pain, or is it something that is fun to run? How much power does it actually give you? My dad said to just mount the extra carbs on a mock setup & really just run the center carb if I was after "the look". Might be cool 'til someone at the cruise in points it out to everyone. Don't want to be a "poser".........
Having the head machined by a shop is not necessary, anyone can do it with a bimetal hole saw, a file and a little paitents.

I don't know about various sized carbs, I don't know how you would balance them, but maybe you can :roll:

I am using Autolite carbs, I tried Holleys also and didn't care for them, they are all small bore carbs (early) because larger ones won't fit without modification, my center carb does have dual accelerator pumps and a manual choke (you remove the chokes from the two outboard carbs).

I've ran mine for several years without a problem, coolness factor is there 8) to boot.

Any other questions I'll try to answer them.

See Ya,
Folks at Offy really helped me out. Try call 323-225-1307. Vince really went out of his way to help me with some linkage problems.
As far as price, you can put it together cheaper then $1000.

Here was my price break down:

Offy Intake: $180 (from ebay)
1 Autolite rebuilt by Pony Carb (it will be my center carb): $90
2 rebuilt Autolites from Mustangs Unlimited: $100 ea
Head mods: $15 for hole saw bit
Cobra Air Cleaner: $60

It is fairly inexpensive if you do most of it yourself. I am having my head rebuilt with larger valves...but that is because I want the head rebuilt...nothing to do with the Offy.

My offy will be up an running by the Spring. I'm just waiting for my new cam shaft to come in before I reassemble the engine and drop it in the car.

I figured the mods could probably be done by a "backyard mechanic", but didn't want to point someone w/o experience in the wrong direction. This is the reason I posted this topic--I wanted to hear from the guys with the exp. & real world setups. MIKE- what kind of gas mileage are you getting? You seem to be happy w/ your setup. I'm glad to hear you've had good luck w/ it. How long did it take to get any bugs worked out? SLADE- what size carbs are you installing,are they all the same sizes? 200+- how about your experience & carb sizes? Thanx for all the input, guys. I appreciate it.
I'm going will all Autolites. I've removed the chokes from teh outer two. They automatic choke carbs were cheaper then the manual choke. I'm not sure of venturi size, should just be stock for the 65 200. That's what I ordered. They are all the same size though. I looked at doing a 1-2-1 set up...but it was going to be too much for the engine and pure hell to sync up.

Gas mileage shouldn't vary much since it is a progressive set up. Only if you really ride teh gas hard will you lose mileage. I won't really be able to comment on it since I'm putting a T-5 behind the new engine when it goes in so I should gain mileage...


What does the air filter you are planning on using look like? Is it one of the ones that was used back on the old 427's with dual 4 barrells? I was thinking of looking into one of those and modifying it to fit on my 3 webers. I think that woudl look pretty damn cool.

While I have not driven it very far yet (its still dumping from the headers) it sounds very strong running, especially once the progressive linkage kicks in the 2 outer carbs.

If you use the autolites, make sure you have enough clearence with the hood. I think they might be taller than my webers, and it is close...


I'm using this:


I'm using it. It is really low profile. it is shorter then my stock cleaner. It is only about 1.5" high. I'm going to make my own base and cut it for the 3-1V intakes. I have two bases for 1-4V and 2-4V. I may just reuse the 1-4V and cut out the outer holes. The other thing is that I can always recess them. The Autolites are actually not that tall...I'm not using the Holley Autolites. The holley autolites are very tall.

Slade, I like the looks of that. Where did you get it, what part number, etc.

I haven't driven the car in quite some time, but if memory serves me I was getting in the 17mpg range with the 4.11 rear end gearing.

I had no trouble getting all the bugs worked out once I went with the Autolite carbs, very little tuning was required and it seemed to stay in tune, they were very close to balanced when I started the car after 10 years (lots of WD-40 had to be used on the linkage) I do now have a stumble when I step on it and the carbs are leaking like a son-of-a-gun so they are up for a rebuild (probably accelerator pumps not pumping)

See Ya,
Hey guys, thanx for the info. Now I don't feel so intimidated by the tri power setup. C-ya.