Turbo installed!

[lightnin-boy]

Here are some pic's of the re-installation of hasa68mustang's orginal turbo setup. I have the car running and I'm going to start dialling it in tomorrow. I'm using a Holley 1946 similar to the setup linc was running.
I left the choke intact, as I live in a northern climate. Will this have an adverse effect on the operation of the tubo, anyone know?

I have yet to connect the blow-off valve. Tommy, if you see this could you tell me which connection on the valve needs to be connected to a boost signal?

I wanted to extend my gratitude to everyone here who contributes to the info on this forum. The content is truly priceless.

Kirk

 

[hasa68mustang]

The top vacuum barb piece sees vacuum/boost, the bottom is supposed to be for a vent. The choke should be fine as long as it doesnt close. I had problms with my holley carb and the choke turning on after WOT runs and it would scare the crap out of me cause the car wouldnt run when I came to a stop. The other thing is make sure the holes where the choke butterfly is dont leak. Most dont seem to have a problem with not having a choke with a turbo I forget the reason though. My car never had problems starting in winter, you would pump the pedal twice and it would start right up, it would have a rough idle till I got to the end of my street ( 1/8th mile or so) And would be fine afterward. but this is in florida so it was only in the 30's-40s at the absolute coldest.

Im gonna say ditch your clear filter. you dont want your pressure to rise and have that explode or crack above the manifold. after one drive I had the car idling and the hood open and noticed the center of the manifold was glowing red so I know it was hot.

Man you have no idea how much I miss that setup... I tend to watch the old videos alot, and remember the instant boost. I mean dont get me wrong this setup will make more power but that old setup was awesome around town. I gotta go though hope that helps a bit. Tommy

 

[wallaka]

So you're the guy that outbid me...good luck with it!

Tomm, were you running that air filter...looks like something you would do

 

[hasa68mustang]

So you're the guy that outbid me...good luck with it!

Tomm, were you running that air filter...looks like something you would do

lol no I had an adapter for te inlet that went to 3" so I ran an $80 K&N filter...

 

[Mustang Boy]

i hope you plan on using that filter on this turbo also

 

[lightnin-boy]

Plastic filter has been turfed.

I whipped up the airfilter after not being able to find anything that would work locally. I need to place an order with Summit so I'll get something that looks a little less fabricated... This will do for the time being.

I got the exhaust done today, 2.25" pipe from the turbo flange back to a transverse mounted single dual out muffler so now I have faux dual exhaust... 8)

It makes a huge difference the car gets up and is gone now, even at part throttle.

Kirk

 

[hasa68mustang]

Plastic filter has been turfed.

I whipped up the airfilter after not being able to find anything that would work locally. I need to place an order with Summit so I'll get something that looks a little less fabricated... This will do for the time being.

I got the exhaust done today, 2.25" pipe from the turbo flange back to a transverse mounted single dual out muffler so now I have faux dual exhaust... 8)

It makes a huge difference the car gets up and is gone now, even at part throttle.

Kirk

so how do you like it? have you reached full boost yet? is the BOV functioning properly?

 

[lightnin-boy]

Tommy,

I have yet to really stick my foot in it... but based on what I know, this is by far the best money I've spent to date on the car... Another question, what was the base timing were you running with this setup?

Kirk

 

[kirkallen143]

Be very conservative on the timing issue, you might even want to disconnect your vacuum advance and just use the mechanical weights in the dist. only. As long as a high octane fuel is used, I say somewhere around 25* of total timing. Even at 18*-19* total timing, I can still hear pinging once I'm under full boost and that is with 93 octane fuel.

Oh yeah, one very important thing...CHECK YOUR PLUGS. You want a light brown/tan color on them after a run. Keep us updated.

Kirk

 

[hasa68mustang]

Tommy,

I have yet to really stick my foot in it... but based on what I know, this is by far the best money I've spent to date on the car... Another question, what was the base timing were you running with this setup?

Kirk

I forgot to mention I disconnected my vacuum line to run only mechanical. I Couldnt agree more about the best money I had ever spent... I mean for the cost of a hooker header you get performance you can REALLY feel. Timing I had set at 12 or so. I ran 93 octane at all times, and never really experienced pinging until I tried advancing the timing up higher at the drag strip.

 

[wallaka]

Sounds like I know what my next mod is going to be...hehe. Once I get the motor back together, of course. And buy a welding machine.

Oh, just saw your thread on turbomustangs.com. I think there were some pics that I haven't seen before. Your car is starting to look really nice.

 

[lightnin-boy]

Thanks all for your advice.

Do you need to do anything to limit the total mechanical advance? My dist has the 13L weight and I'm running MarkP's advance curve mod. So if I disconnect the vacuum advance, set the static timing to 12* I should end up with 25* total?

Another question, I'm referencing the pump from a fitting off the carb that see pressure from above the throttle plate. I've read here that I should be referencing from the waste gate connection, is this correct?

I'm going to pull the PV and drill it similar to what Linc's did with his to get some more fuel in there...

Tommy, did you use the stock pump or did you end up ditching it for something more robust? I have no desire to re-invent the wheel so if you could tell me how you solved your fuel delivery problems I will be in your debt.

Thanks,

Kirk

 

[Mustang Boy]

if you look at the top of the small six section tommy did a write up on how to put a carter super street fuel pump on but he did that after running with the stock pump for awhile

 

[lightnin-boy]

Yes,

I'm reading that now... Turbos make the little 200 very thirsty.

On a side, I went to the local Mustang Club meeting tonight and took the car. Afterward we were all taking some time to check out each others rides, and the inline 6 turbo was a hit... nobody could believe it, until they saw it. I got a similar reaction at the garage today when I took it in for the yearly safety check. All of the mechanics came over and took a look... The wow factor is far beyond what I thought it would be. Having an inline is finally cool, even to the V8 crowd. Which as we all know can be a tough audience.

Kirk

 

[JT81stang]

Kirk:

To answer your question on the mechanical advance.

"My dist has the 13L weight and I'm running MarkP's advance curve mod. So if I disconnect the vacuum advance, set the static timing to 12* I should end up with 25* total? "

No - you multiply the number on the weight by 2 to get the total amount of mech. advance.
In your case 13 x 2 =26 degrees of mech. advance + your initial setting of 12* = 38* of mechanical advance.

John

 

[hasa68mustang]

Kirk you will definately get more attention with a turbo on there than when stock. Either people will love it or hate it... you will always get the question about why dont you just drop in a V8... I was very happy knowing the 6 banger stang was infact faster than my 95 gt.

As for the fuel pump question for now I am running that carter pump with a return style regulator. I may end up switching to an electric pump like Does10s as I have heard running the mechanical pumps above 10 pounds of boost is kind of iffy. My stock pump was only giving me about 3 psi of pressure which is why I originally switched to the carter. As for timing I got a good deal on an msd btm so I can control the timing a little better. so how is it running overall?

 

[lightnin-boy]

Hey Tommy,

Right now it stumbles when I stick my foot in it. I have a few things to try as soon as I get the time.

Move the fuel pump reference to the compressor housing.

Enlarge the orifice in the power valve as per Linc's 200.

I'm probably going to have to spring for one of those MSD BTM's as well. It looks like the ticket to keep the timing under control.

I have a boost and fuel pressure gauge on order so I'll know more once I have these in place. I can drive it in the mean time, I just can't open it up.

JT81stang, thanks for the explanation on the timing.

Thanks all for your advice.

Kirk

 

[lightnin-boy]

Hey Kirk,

About your post on timing, I have 26* total mechanical even before the base timing is factored in. I was looking at gofastforless and he locks out half of the mechanical advance by wrapping the heavy spring with copper wire and soldering it to make it a stop. If I were to do this I could keep the total timing within the thresholds you mention. Thinking about the detonation I now experience it comes on around 2500 rpm... I have a spare dizzy, so modding one as a test piggy isn't an issue...

Thoughts?

Kirk

 

[Anonymous]

The stock fuel pump was good for 10 psi and low 15's in the 1/4 mile for me.

It was just a el-cheapo $10 pump. I also had a cheap $30 clicker-style electric fuel pump (5 psi) pushing fuel to the mechanical pump. You shouldn't need an aftermarket pump for now, stock pump should meet your needs.

As far as boost referencing goes, the pressures should be nearly equal anywhere between the compressor outlet and the carb hat, so choose what is convenient.

If I had kept on with the 1946, I would have made some more mods to the bowl vent tube. The guys on turbo mustangs are playing with the bowl vent tube on their carbs and making big improvements. I had to jet a little too large to make up for a lean spot, but if I had made the bowl vent tube more like an aircraft "pitot tube" (I think if you do a search on TM for vent tube extensions) that would have fixed my problems.

 

[kirkallen143]

Hey Kirk,

About your post on timing, I have 26* total mechanical even before the base timing is factored in. I was looking at gofastforless and he locks out half of the mechanical advance by wrapping the heavy spring with copper wire and soldering it to make it a stop. If I were to do this I could keep the total timing within the thresholds you mention. Thinking about the detonation I now experience it comes on around 2500 rpm... I have a spare dizzy, so modding one as a test piggy isn't an issue...

Thoughts?

Kirk

Yeah that would work, too. More like an adjustable type if you wanted it that way. Just bend your wire at longer or shorter lengths and get what total mech adv you need. I just had access to a welder so I did it the other way.

Like you I will end up investing in a MSD btm. I also need to do something about my denotation at WOT...alky/water injection or racing fuel/e85.

Good luck,

Kirk