Two many options...

Jakes66snake

Active member
I guess my 66 with a 6 build would be alot easier to plan if I diddn't have so many directions I could go. I'm going to give you a list of parts I have and give me your opion on what way you would go. I would be happy to get stock or slightly higher than stock 289 hp numbers. The only stipulation is has to be able to run pump 92 gas. Oh and I do want the car show cool factor involved. Thanks Jake

Complete 1969 250
complete 1976 250
complete 1967 200
autolite 2100 (from a 390)
autolite 4100 (from a 66 352)
C4 and bell housings for 250 and 200
1987 Volvo 740 rebuilt turbo and intercooler
4 lug (in the car)
8' rear

My thoughts are..
A. CI head, 300 rods and GM piston 250.
B. large log ( direct mount 2100) on the 200 and use a J pipe turbo......
C. CI moded large log, 255 piston 250, deck as needed...

Of course I know that I'll need all the other standard parts but they should stay the same on either engine combo,,, dist, headers, ect
 
Howdy back Jake:

This sounds like a fun project. You might want to add a budget generality and an intended uses to your criteria to help us help you plan.

Adios, David
 
For reference.. 1967 Mustang 289 HP ratings (Wikipedia article on Ford Mustangs)
2bbl
200 bhp (149 kW; 203 PS) @ 4,400
282 lb·ft (382 N·m) @ 2,400
4bbl
225 bhp (168 kW; 228 PS) @ 4,800
305 lb·ft (414 N·m) @ 3,200
4bbl HiPo
271 bhp (202 kW; 275 PS) @ 6,000
312 lb·ft (423 N·m) @ 3,400

FWIW, 1969 Mustang 250
155 bhp (116 kW; 157 PS) @ 4,000
240 lb·ft (325 N·m) @ 2,600

To get the '69 250 up to a '67 289 2bbl hp/tq spec it really wouldn't take much, the right cam, 4bbl, good header.. and I bet you are exceeding the 2bbl and nearing the 4bbl specs. However to get up to the 271hp/312tq specs you are going to have to force feed the motor. Any time you start making over 1hp per cubic inch motors start getting a little 'tempermental'

So my choices would be..
D. CI head, 4100 on CI intake, 255 piston 250, deck as needed, headers...

My next favorite would be
Option B (depending on the specs of that turbo, maybe B but with a 250)
Then you don't need headers, but you will need something to control timing. And you have all the major components already. Just a bit more complicated than D to build and package into the vehicle.

The reasons I voted against the others
A. 300 rods and GM piston 250
You would need to source both of these parts and frankenstein the motor together after convincing a machinist that you weren't wasting his time. Also if you ever needed a replacement block you couldn't just 'get one' and go.

C. CI moded large log, 255 piston 250, deck as needed...
This is actually a decent plan, however once you start looking into the head rebuild pricing you will get closer and closer to the CI aluminum head prices and being able to directly mount a 4bbl will make your life easier, you can raise the compression a bit and the aluminum will drop the overall motor weight a few pounds.
 
Thanks

CZLN6, as far as budget :mrgreen: I know I'm spending twice as much for half the HP. I'm ok with that. But I'm not looking for a race car and this would be slightly different than the average red coupe with a 302. As far as dollar amount I stopped adding up numbers around $4000 lol figure if I do the bottom end and bought the head. I could trickle along this winter on the details. Thats kinda the delimea, if the turbo I have would be enough for the 200 that would be the cheapest way... (I think).

CoupeBoy, I'm thinking the standard 4 bbl numbers, reason being my first V8 66 mustang I had was a stock 302 with a 289 intake and 4v carb. That was a nice running car, the weight of the car made it nice running car the was about dead nuts equal to my buddies new 94 Mustang GT. I later put a HiPo 289 13:1 manley pistons, oringed, ported C9 351 heads the whole deal... couldn't afford AV gas for it so I sold the engine...
 
Jakes66snake":1wia6iu0 said:
I guess my 66 with a 6 build would be alot easier to plan if I diddn't have so many directions I could go. I'm going to give you a list of parts I have and give me your opion on what way you would go. I would be happy to get stock or slightly higher than stock 289 hp numbers. The only stipulation is has to be able to run pump 92 gas. Oh and I do want the car show cool factor involved. Thanks Jake

Complete 1969 250
complete 1976 250
complete 1967 200
autolite 2100 (from a 390)
autolite 4100 (from a 66 352)
C4 and bell housings for 250 and 200
1987 Volvo 740 rebuilt turbo and intercooler
4 lug (in the car)
8' rear

My thoughts are..
A. CI head, 300 rods and GM piston 250.
B. large log ( direct mount 2100) on the 200 and use a J pipe turbo......
C. CI moded large log, 255 piston 250, deck as needed...

Of course I know that I'll need all the other standard parts but they should stay the same on either engine combo,,, dist, headers, ect

Hi Jakes66snake,

I was exactly where you are a few weeks ago, and many of my goals and thoughts are the same as yours, EXCEPT that I'm not ready to do any kind of forced induction just yet - definitely staying N/A.

To me, streetable means reasonable compression, cam and RPM limit - and with those parameters, I think a 250 could be a good choice. For a big cam, high compression, high RPM screamer, a 200 might be best - but that's not very streetable. Just my .02.

As has been pointed out further down this thread, a great deal of work on a large log head (especially a 2V conversion) puts you at a sizable fraction of the cost of an aluminum head. That is what finally convinced me to order an aluminum head. That, and the fact that if I don't, I would always wonder how much better my engine might have performed with one.

Still considering the build details, but I think I may end up going with a .070 overbore for my 250, the 258 (4.2L) Jeep piston with its huge, d-shaped 21 CC dish, -.010 deck clearance (yes, that's right), reaming out my rods for the slightly larger Jeep pin, and a CR around 9.5.

Thanks
Bob
 
I see so many ( ) , but all the questions and answers wont fix a lack of MONEY , you WILL spend 3 times the money to build a 6 with anywhere close to what the 1/3rd the money on a 302/347 will give , yes they are different , BUT its a choice , not a investment , if you turnaround and try to resell , it will bite you again ( compared to a v-8 swap ) harsh reality , Just Saying !
 
FalconSedanDelivery":rv1d37y6 said:
I see so many ( ) , but all the questions and answers wont fix a lack of MONEY , you WILL spend 3 times the money to build a 6 with anywhere close to what the 1/3rd the money on a 302/347 will give , yes they are different , BUT its a choice , not a investment , if you turnaround and try to resell , it will bite you again ( compared to a v-8 swap ) harsh reality , Just Saying !

FSD,

Absolutely true. The moment I ordered my CI head I became very committed to the Ford Six approach. I think of the head as a lifetime investment that I may use with several engines over the years. Who knows, my next engine may be forced induction or even NOS.

Come to think of it, I haven't heard of anyone building an engine with NOS in mind? I wonder if anyone has ever considered that approach? A battleship-solid bottom end, moderately low CR and NOS? Those FI bosses on the head might be usable for per-cylinder NOS injection.

Thank you,
Bob
 
Then Good Luck , I would build the 250 with the Aluminum head ( if I had the Money ) , 10.75 is fine with the right cam , an honest 225 hp at the wheels , and I would add N20 ( please don't use the Nause term LOL ) Ive been running the Juice on my Mustang since 1980 ( and with the 671 as well ) so if you have questions shoot
 
Yeah, but you've got all those parts. A V8 guy wouldn't have that much.

I'd say
A. CI head, 300 rods and GM piston 250. But only do the bottom of the engine when you've got a cam, carb, exhast to suit

You won't bust that in a hurry, and if you do, the head rods and pistons will last a long time.


I think I've talked through some of the 250 options at length, probably to the beating of a dead horse :deadhorse: .

What I shoulda said is this "You can't really go wrong with a good basic block, but after that, a great head and induction, exhast and ignition are the first keys".

The way I've saved on sixes verses V8's is by the old Aussie mantra, carb, exhast, head, and then maybee a cam. Gearboxes and the block and the bottom foot of the engine you can get anywhere. It's the anchovies on the side and top and back that take it from a catfish to a 'cuda. All my mates have gone broke with Clevelands and Windsors, where as I've been lucky to have paid a third less than them because I always get their good going I6 when they drop in there 302 Windsor, or Cleveland 3514V or, the last one, an HP 289 with overdriven Toploader. That gave me an X-flow 250 I6 and BW 35 gearbox in great nick which I still have now. Before that, I got four log head engines (200's and 250s), an iron X-flow head, an FMX, an AOD, a five speed Toyota steel case Celica gearbox, a whole buch of bellhousings, flexplates, cable kickdowns and clutches. And 3.7, 3.5 and 3.23:1 diff ratios to suit these over driven boxes.

My old 1984 250 Falcon stock had a blown head gasket, a low rent propane carb, stock exhast and diff and 3 speed. I spent my money on the 500 cfm Holley 2-bbl, a Heatseaker header, we rewelded up the blown and melted factory alloy x-flow head it came with, then added some small 252 duration Heatseaker cam, and the best kickdown system for a Holley money could buy (a 100 dollar cable kickdown from an Aussie 265 Hemi Valiant). Those years, the Aussie Falcon got a Duraspark set a 9 deg initial, and 34 degrees total from the factory, and everything lined up with those items attached. The block was redone with 30 thou over pistons when I got it, but if I'd ever broken anything, it was easy to find a 250 and auto gearbox anywhere from the bottom of Moo Zealand to the top.

The thing could just fly with those. Stock, 17.9 second before LPG, probably 19 SEC 1/4mile in its 77 rear wheel hp trim. stock carb for that year was a Fiat style 34ADM 2-bbl. Modifed, 15.9 secs with about 125 rwhp. Still with 2.77:1 gears in a 3100 pound car.

In total NZ dollars, from 1995 to 2003, I spent, including fuel, HP and all other costs, about 29 000 NZ dollars and drove 24 000 miles, and it was the best dollar per mile combo ever for fun. But I've spent, all up inclding HP, 10 000 NZ $ on my Mustang 3.3 import, and have driven 6200 miles, and although its slower by far (19.7 sec 1/4 mile), its twice the car and i've got a Spanish Armada of parts for it. I know there the 4 second drop in quarter mile times is coming from....

Don't sweet the small stuff about deck heights and ideal C/R's and rod ratios and whatever. Do the anchovies first!
 
FalconSedanDelivery":2z006nx1 said:
I see so many ( ) , but all the questions and answers wont fix a lack of MONEY , you WILL spend 3 times the money to build a 6 with anywhere close to what the 1/3rd the money on a 302/347 will give , yes they are different , BUT its a choice , not a investment , if you turnaround and try to resell , it will bite you again ( compared to a v-8 swap ) harsh reality , Just Saying !
X2! If you spent $4000 bucks on a 200 or even a 250, you'd likely still not be too impressed with your build. That commercial from back in the 70's would be ringing loudly in your head "Wow, I coulda' had a V8". Like FalconSedan already said, thats just going to be the harsh reality of it.
 
Money isn't a problem, being able to sleep at night knowing what I spent is! This isn't a teenagers mythical build... I'm very familiar with building engines, I've done a ton of FE and 302-351 engines. I've owned and drove 3 I6 cars, but all got a v8 within a short order. I guess I could add some other options based on V8 stuff I have...
1986 5.0HO re-ring-ed, oem forged flat top piston, roller cam GT 40 heads
1990 5.0H0 complete engine, AOD, the complete EFI harness and ECM
1995 5.8 Marine take out, complete Volvo Penta/Ford EFI, marine GT 40 heads

And I guess if I want to get creative I have acouple FE 390's with C6AER and C4AER poor man CJ heads. I also have a rear wrecked Mercedes wagon that has a factory 217hp I6 with 4 speed auto. Actully thought about this one....but afraid I'd get shot at a car show. Figured if I got the translation for "mustang" in German then have costom badges made.

Well now you know what I have in the storage barn....What would you do???
 
xctasy":23jol795 said:
Yeah, but you've got all those parts. A V8 guy wouldn't have that much.

I'd say
A. CI head, 300 rods and GM piston 250. But only do the bottom of the engine when you've got a cam, carb, exhast to suit

You won't bust that in a hurry, and if you do, the head rods and pistons will last a long time.


I think I've talked through some of the 250 options at length, probably to the beating of a dead horse :deadhorse: .

Yes and thank you, thats were A came from. This combo wouldn't cost much/if any more than a stock build (short block). For the numbers Im looking for a set of used factory rods and cast pistons would be fine. (forged heavy duty parts are nice but they don't make power, add alot of cost and not needed for a 200hp N/A engine).


The difference between being happy with the results of spending 4000 on a six, is were the money is spent and your idea of being happy. ie you could buy all the hard parts that lets say Does10's has slap it together and only get 2/3 the power at best. Its the small things and knowledge that you can't buy, that get you an efficient runnng engine. Thats why I'm asking thanks
 
CNC-Dude":1pa33ard said:
FalconSedanDelivery":1pa33ard said:
I see so many ( ) , but all the questions and answers wont fix a lack of MONEY , you WILL spend 3 times the money to build a 6 with anywhere close to what the 1/3rd the money on a 302/347 will give , yes they are different , BUT its a choice , not a investment , if you turnaround and try to resell , it will bite you again ( compared to a v-8 swap ) harsh reality , Just Saying !
X2! If you spent $4000 bucks on a 200 or even a 250, you'd likely still not be too impressed with your build. That commercial from back in the 70's would be ringing loudly in your head "Wow, I coulda' had a V8". Like FalconSedan already said, thats just going to be the harsh reality of it.

I'm sorry, 2050 gave me a 15.9 second quarter mile, where as the stock 1979-1982 200 hp, 306 lb-ft 351 Cleveland 4-BBL 4-seepd with 2.92 diff had tropuble doing that. For another 1950, I'd have put in a 280 cam, a that 221 3.46" crank and 6.275" rods and over bore the block 56 thou for my TRW 305 Chevy pistons and put in the 3.5:1 gears and twin 2" exhast.

When the XR6 came out, it was faster than the GT 40 engined XR8, and quicker.


Down here, a good 250 beats any 302 in the first 50 foot of any race. A great Six pack Mopar 265 beats a Boss 351 engined Falcon. Factory 265's won every years Benson and Hedges race from 1971 to 1982, 11 years of I6 supremacy. Where was the mighty 302 Cleveland engined Falcon, a practically Boss Mustang engine at half the price? Nowhere!

 
If you are going to take this thing on the open road..
I'd still say the 250/CI aluminum head/4bbl/headers (DII or DUI) are going to get you exactly where you want to be in a bone simple/reliable configuration. Good power range, lighter than any of the bent8 options and will still have a wow factor when you open the hood. (bling it out with additional aluminum accessories from CI)

Plus if you don't get what you need out of this combo you already have the SBF transmission in place and its just a matter of swapping in bent8

So here's my .02,
You didn't start this thread to swap in a bent8, if you wanted one, you would have bought some motor/frame mounts, upgraded to v8 suspension and go..

You've got several good/easy fall back options there, but they are boring, cookie cutter solutions. (still easy and cheap though)

since this is a '66, rule out the FE motors, the barely fit in the '67/68's. I hated changing plugs on those.

The 5.8 would obviously meet your needs (after removing and shipping to me all the marine stuff) and is an easy backup solution. Any of the 5.0HO motors would meet your needs (the EFI would be nice to reduce tuning issues)

But... I ain't going to lie, the turbo setup would give me some tinglies thinking about installing it. However I also think about the fuel/spark management issues that would have to be dealt with. You should be rebuilding the block with close tolerances and forged internals. Then there is the packaging... intercooler and plumbing goes where? I also worry about replacement parts. Would you be building a one off that would be hard to find replacement parts for?

For my '67 Mustang Coupe, I picked up a 170/C4 this Spring for $25 and I have a friend that is supposed to be sending me a dual turbo setup off of a Toyota MKIV (dual CT12B or CT20's) for another $50, which I will fit together once I find a cheap timing/fuel solution. Because I can, I already have a '68 Mustang with a bent8 (289/C4) and this is a hobby for me that I enjoy. Sometimes I like the challenge of doing some things on the cheap. When it blows up I have 2 more 200 long blocks, *if* I blow both of them up I also have a 250 (just change over the C4 bellhousing/torque converter) and if I happen to blow that up I can easily get a couple 300's. At some point I would probably upgrade without blowing things up, but that might make me sad because I wasn't really pushing it.
Jakes66snake":3udolri4 said:
1995 5.8 Marine take out, complete Volvo Penta/Ford EFI, marine GT 40 heads
How much for this with shipping to 58102 :lol: I'd like to shove that in my pontoon with some through hull exhaust tips, I was hoping to find a 5.0 with Aphla 1 (or Bravo) but the Volvo will do....
 
FalconSedanDelivery":21ut4w6q said:
I Think you boys need some tuners that work on V-8's , LOL , besides I have seen all the Mad Max Movies , and the V-8's rule , LOL


Mad Max was like ProStreet, once you removed all the Mopars, you could have fun watching Fords and GM products doing the tango...


Unlike American racing, the Antipodes have some really nasty tech inspectors, and in the US, the Al Turner Total Performance concept, where you threw a dollar bill at parts you could homologate by making them from any model line, just didn't work here. So when our blocks blew up due to detonation or oil starvation, a common V8 problem, it was end of race. The weapon of choice, the canted valve engines, wasn't up to the reliability of a really good I6. At the top level, Allan Moffats illegal Coke Mustang was a winner, but it had the cut away and channelled cat walk which so incensed Trans AM Group 2 inspectors, yet the Kiwis and Aussies let him use it, but told him to bolt on drum rear brakes. That was a winner, and you can bet, at the top level, the Ford Total Performance Anvil was sharp and hit with repeated fast cycles. A properly prepared Boss 302, or the Australian version of the Boss 351 which was our 351 GTHO engine, was probably even better than the US race versions, because almst 200 of them were production line made under QC requirements in Australia. The problem was we didn't use 105 octane and they were shoved in rolly polly Falcons, a mile high, and prone to create huge oil surge even with the best baffled sump. When the 1972 Falcon got 60"wide track instead of the old 57.5" track, and 15 inch wheels, it just got worse for surge and then they started getting welded up valves at the 155 mph top speeds the smoother late model improved production class was able to hit. The Valiant kept winning the small classes, and the Torana kept knocking back the 351's any time race conditions changed for the worst.

It wasn't that no-one could build v8's, it was that antipodean racing was hard and fast Laguna Seca style, not winston cup Nastruck. So the radical and fearless Ford V8's couldn't cope with the pace changes, and, without being vulgar, would muff its credentials and grenade like a teen on a hot date.

The funny thing is, therefore, all the good old 10.7:1 351 4V HO Cleveland's were detonation prone, worse with the Phase 3's 300 degree cam the than quicker Phase 2 with its 310 degree cam, even though they each dynoed 350 hp net at worst, while a 10:1 295 hp net triple 45 DCOE Chrysler could always take out an eight in a New Zealand flat circuit race. It was only at high speeds where the V8 showed supremacy, where a you'd only see 144 mph out of a Ford at any of the exceptionally fast air force base tracks in NZ, the Mopar would be doing only 132 mph, and 1000 rpm past its 5500 rpm rev limit, but perfectly safely. The 6150 electric rev limited was gone for the 351's, but 6200 was a safe maximum, as oil cavitation would take out a block in 25 laps if the full performance was downloaded to the pavement.

A wrung down the ladder to stock New Zealand assembled performance cars, V8's were even worse. The Mopar 318 was slower than the 8.5:1 compression 2-bbl 216 hp gross Charger770 SE, but even it could take out a 240 hp gross 2-bbl 302. Which was slower than the M code 170hp 250 2V.The point being, big or small Cleveland, the Ford engine was detonation constrained, and even though both cars had to run an automatic in series, the I6 had less drive train loss, more performance everywhere, and the whole package really sang. And those little 2v headed Clevelands had some dodgey valve problems with the 256 degree hydraulic cams. So it was never as good as it could have been if it came out with a 4350 and some more relaxed compression ratios like the 1972 US Clevelands and 400's had.

Which is as it should be...a 265 is nearly a big block 240 or 300.

Then, Fords 302 Clevelands were doing rods, doing main bearings, splitting bores and cracking blocks and not coping with 9.4:1 compression with 2-bbl heads and intakes. The stock sump was a fail, and had huge oil surge problems on a 60" track Ford. The nice long 6.06" rods and closed chamber 57 cc heads with 5.5 cc pistons were dropping valves and failing where the little I6's, even Toranas with 202's, were not having any issues.

And that, my friends, is why I love I6's. For our Aussie/NZ market Cleveland to have ever taken out a 265 Hemi, it would have had to have had a 4mv Quadrajet like they ran on the 428 for a season, the open chamber 75 cc 351 2V head and flat tops for a 8.6:1 compression ratio, a 300 I6 style 268 degree cam, and a really nice 2350 rpm stall converter to cope with the loss of torque. And thats basically a 1985 5.0 Big Valve Commodore SS 4-bbl / 5.0 Mustang GT 4-BBL spec engine, and there's no way Ford would have done that. That's why the US had a 265 hp gross 2v 351 for, it could do what it did with a mild 256 degree cam, 5200 rpm up shifts, and a 2100 2-bbl, and get 20 to the gallon in a Torino with the 1650 stall C4 or FMX. Canted valve engines were detontion limited, and the 250 isn't nearly as bad.
 
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