Umbrella seal vs. valve job



question: a guy at the shop said that a lot of times instead of a valve job, inline 6's need a change of the umbrella seals. He said there is a place that,for about $235, will blow up each cyl and change them.

Do this sound like good advice?

Obviously I wanna save a valve job if needed. I leak on #4 only. So bad it fouls the plug every couple of weeks.
8) as long as you have good and equal compression, the lowest cyl is within 20psi of the highest, then changing valve seals only is the way to go. is the compression difference is larger than 20psi then you need to go further in finding where the compression is going and repair it before you change valve seals. that could be a valve job or a rebuild, in either case the valve seals will be replaced anyway.
It cost me $3.oo to change my seels ecsept th cost to rent the tool they give me all the mony back when I brout the tool back
Absolutely, do it in your garage! :D
You can buy any of several types of tools to compress the valve springs. A lot of parts stores let you "buy" the tool, then bring it back for a refund. 8)
The trick is to keep the valves from falling into the cylinders, and forcing you to pull the head. :shock:
One method is to run each piston up to TDC. Then take clothesline, and feed it through the sparkplug hole, so the valve is held in place. (Make sure you leave the end of the line sticking out.) ;) Another method is to connect an adapter to the plug hole, and use air pressure to keep the valves closed.
Pay yourself $235. :D
Actually, bring that cylinder to BDC before the compression stroke, then insert about two feet of clothsline. Then, BY HAND, rotate the engine until it forces the balled up clothsline against the valves. That will hold them.

Before you use the valve spring compressor, tap the tops of the retainer with a rubber mallet to help loosen the keepers. Once done, rotate the engine in the opposite direction to remove the line.
MustangSix":1wce73yg said:
Once done, rotate the engine in the opposite direction to remove the line.
Aw, Jack... You take all the fun out of it! ;)
no I think you`ll have to pay your self $232. $3.oo for the seels :LOL:
The #5 cylinder/spark plug would foul and totally stop firing in 100 miles on my '65 Mustang. I replaced the seals after work at a plant I was working at (it had compressed air). I used the compressed air trick, I was able to use the hose from my compression checker along with some misc pipe fittings so I could attach an air chuck. I did have to "rap" the end of the valve and spring retainers to get the locks off. I didn't have a rubber mallet so I used the handle of my biggest screw driver. It only needs a little rap. The only other tool I would recommend is a magnet. They help remove the lock from the top of the valves or if they fall on top of the head. I think my engine had over 200K miles on it so the locks were very gooy and stuff. If you do use compressed air, leave the socket & breaker bar on the crank shaft nut. It will make sure the engine doesn't turn over when the air is applied. It took me about 1.5 hours to swap 'em out.