VACUUM HOOKUP
- Thread starter NJRANCH
- Start date
Falcon Ranch
Well-known member
If no body responds, you should be able to swap it for a single vacuum unit...just remove and take it with you for comparison.
The one on the end of the can would go to the manifold port on the base of the carb. Or thereabouts. 
Mine's a later version so I'm not sure about yours.
The other nipple that sticks out perpendicular is for a vacuum retard.
That would go into some plumbing that I'm not sure about, but if the original hoses are not present you could probably put a cap on it and it will run fine - unless you have a leak from where ever it's supposed to be hooked up. For that matter you should be able to cap everything and get a running engine at least, until you get it all sorted out.
Mine's a later version so I'm not sure about yours.
The other nipple that sticks out perpendicular is for a vacuum retard.
That would go into some plumbing that I'm not sure about, but if the original hoses are not present you could probably put a cap on it and it will run fine - unless you have a leak from where ever it's supposed to be hooked up. For that matter you should be able to cap everything and get a running engine at least, until you get it all sorted out.
Howdy NJRanch And All:
The above posts have you pretty well covered but let me add-. The inside nipple is for the vacuum retard function of this distributor/carb combo along with some emmissions stuff from that period. You will be best off with this distributor by hooking the outside nipple to a ported vacuum source on the OEM '68 Autolite 1100 (with NO SCV). Do not cap off the inside/retard nipple. The two sides vacuum canister are supposed to be able to move together. If you cap off the inside you will be creating a vacuum lock which will impede and/or limit the movement of the outer side.
The vacuum retard tube went to a distribution block near the front of the intake log. It can/should be removed or capped off unless all of the original smog stuff is present and functioning as designed. Ironically, much of it did not work as designed when new. This system should only be maintained where law requires or restoration is the priority.
FYI the Autolite 1100 from 1968 is downsized in CFM, from 185 up until 1967 and then down to 150 in '68 & '69. California only 200s went to this system in '66 & '67. So while you gained from a distributor with true vacuum and centrifugal advance systems you are losing power due to carb downsizing.
Adios, David
The above posts have you pretty well covered but let me add-. The inside nipple is for the vacuum retard function of this distributor/carb combo along with some emmissions stuff from that period. You will be best off with this distributor by hooking the outside nipple to a ported vacuum source on the OEM '68 Autolite 1100 (with NO SCV). Do not cap off the inside/retard nipple. The two sides vacuum canister are supposed to be able to move together. If you cap off the inside you will be creating a vacuum lock which will impede and/or limit the movement of the outer side.
The vacuum retard tube went to a distribution block near the front of the intake log. It can/should be removed or capped off unless all of the original smog stuff is present and functioning as designed. Ironically, much of it did not work as designed when new. This system should only be maintained where law requires or restoration is the priority.
FYI the Autolite 1100 from 1968 is downsized in CFM, from 185 up until 1967 and then down to 150 in '68 & '69. California only 200s went to this system in '66 & '67. So while you gained from a distributor with true vacuum and centrifugal advance systems you are losing power due to carb downsizing.
Adios, David
