Vacuum Timing

[jtan540]

I am thinking of vacuum timing my '66 200ci with an AT, still running on points...I've looked on the Classic Inlines site and found that the timing should be done in idle...does that mean Drive or Park? And I've also come across a thread saying idle speed should be set in drive.

Also I have read the idle speed should be 500-575 but others saying it should be 750 in drive...Just a bit confused here, some clarification would be great. THanks in advance.

Jon

 

[fmartin_gila]

Looking at the Motorcraft chart Could be 2 ways does yours have EC? With EC - Points at .025 Gap = 37-42 Dwell - Timing at TDC - Idle at 575 in Drive - Without EC - Points at .025 = 37-42 Dwell - Timing at 12 Deg - Idle at 525 in Drive.

Fred

 

[jtan540]

Sorry can you elaborate on what EC is?

 

[wallaka]

Probably emission controls. It would be on Cali cars only back then. Idle speed should be set in drive...750 idle in drive would be over 1000 in Park, unacceptable.

 

[jtan540]

Ok that makes a little more sense...and so does that mean the timing and the air/fuel mixture screw should be adjusted in Drive too then?...Utilizing maximum stable vacuum pressure as the point of reference.

 

[AzCoupe]

I've had a few people ask this question, so I added a comment in the Tech Article.

Note: All adjustments are made with the transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL, with the exception of Idle Speed, which is set in DRIVE.

Caution: Make all adjustments from the side of the vehicle, rather than standing in front of it. Safety First!!!

 

[fmartin_gila]

Sorry I have not answered your question, I don't get on here everyday. Yes EC is Emission Control, and I see you are in SD so more than likely yours would be EC.

Fred

 

[wallaka]

Sorry I have not answered your question, I don't get on here everyday. Yes EC is Emission Control, and I see you are in SD so more than likely yours would be EC.

Fred

That would be the Thermactor system, correct? If so, it's easy to see. There will be a distributor control valve and various T fittings in the vacuum lines, and they had a smog pump (not necessarily still there). Also, the diaphragm on the dizzy will have two fittings.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Timing by Vacuum SHOULD BE A TEMPORARY THING , not knowing your timing specs will only lead to big problems down the road , Timing by ear ( really what timing by Vacuum is ) is engine damage waiting to happen , THE HUMAN EAR CAN NOT HEAR , the beginning of Detonation , so timing then backing off when you hear pinging is a TEMPORARY thing , Verify your marks , Use a Timing Light , and better yet Have your Dist Recurved , then set your timing by knowing you totals . The Biggest cause of engine damage to an otherwise healthy engine is DETONATION , and it can NOT be totally avoided by listening for it !!!!!

 

[early ford fan]

this site has an article recommending timing by vacumn.....

 

[Lazy JW]

Timing by Vacuum SHOULD BE A TEMPORARY THING , not knowing your timing specs will only lead to big problems down the road , Timing by ear ( really what timing by Vacuum is ) is engine damage waiting to happen , THE HUMAN EAR CAN NOT HEAR , the beginning of Detonation , so timing then backing off when you hear pinging is a TEMPORARY thing , Verify your marks , Use a Timing Light , and better yet Have your Dist Recurved , then set your timing by knowing you totals . The Biggest cause of engine damage to an otherwise healthy engine is DETONATION , and it can NOT be totally avoided by listening for it !!!!!

And just exactly what, pray tell, should we use? Stock specs are only useful ON A TOTALLY STOCK ENGINE! And who wants to drive one of those, eh? You are making it sound as though anyone deviating from stock specs is flirting with internal combustion apocalypse, yet a great many of us have successfully ran engines timed by ear/vacuum for a very long time.
Joe

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

No where in my post did I say stock specs , nothing I have is stock , BUT I know what my totals are , Initial + Mech = Total , and what my vac advance pulls in as well. If you would rather tune by ear and use a vacuum gauge (great tool just not the best for setting timing )do it, just don't cry crocidile tears when your engine unexplicabley looses power and starts to use oil (which Ive seen a few questions posted just like that). Yes I've even done it on an engine that the balancer had slipped (which the Falcon six is known for), buy I fixed that problem and then did it the correct way. Driving with a vacuum gauge to get the best mileage is a good thing, using it for setting timing is not. Ever check out the Engine Masters Competition? Builders across the country compete. Perhaps you should try to get them to time thier stuff with a vacuum guage. See what they say. Im done, Ive posted many times about the benifits of distributer recurving (way more involved than a set of springs) and I get the same kind of backlash.

Edited by AzCoupe 12/31
No reason to take comments by others personally, or to insult them (and others) just because they happen to have a difference of opinion. Let's keep this civil.

 

[AzCoupe]

Setting the timing on a modified engine, using only a light, can get you into trouble just as easily. Regardlesss of which method you use (I personally use both), you need to know what your doing. If you modify your engine, then set the timing to factory specs with a light, you can still blow the rings out of it. Just ask Mustang Geezer....

Next, the tech article does not say this is the "Recommended Method", as stated above. It's merely giving you infomation to assist you in setting your timing.

If you've modified your engine, and you're not sure where to set the timing, seek out the advise and services of a professional mechanic/shop.