Valve springs to use?

artygoose

New member
Hello,
I am in the process of direct mounting a two barrel carb to a 200 log head and I need to replace the springs. Before I order new ones I wanted to know what experiences other people have had using other than stock replacements, or stock springs from other engines?

Thanks
 
Depends on what cam are you going to use. For stock and near stock cams I'd go with stock replacement springs, from Sealed Power or Comp Cams for example. For beefier cams up to at least 224* @.050 /.450 lift the Sealed Power VS-733 ('68 289 spring) works ok.
 
80stang said
Depends on what cam are you going to use

Depends on what cam you are going to use.
Truer words were never spoken.

A stock cam can use a spring rated as per factory specs.
Even with a stock cam i would use a spring with a damper in it, this prevents valve spring harmonics. To my knowledge the stock ford 302 spring does not have this damper & my opinion is not to use it.
Just to say a cam has 224 degrees means nothing as far as valve spring requirements.
One camshaft may only need 80# on the seat & 200# open pressure.
Another cam with the same duration may need 130# seat & 340# open pressure.
It all depends on the cams rate of lift & of course total lift of the cam.
You can figure any camshaft with a very low spring rate will not be very aggressive in rate of lift & total lift.

Any decent performance camshaft will need at least 110# seat & possibly 280# open pressure.

Check with your cam grinders recommendation for the spring needed for the camshaft you choose.

Just going to a 1.6 rocker ratio will help a mild camshaft.

I notice a difference with the camshaft i used to have between a 1.6 & a 1.65 rocker arm ratio as far as performance is concerened. This told me i need a more aggressive camshaft to take advantage of the faster rate of lift. Bill
 
Once you know your needs and specs, Mike has many choices of springs with all the details and specs at classicinlines. I always try to push Mike's products, because if not for him this forum would not exist.
 
wsa111":2h0ylpt5 said:
Just to say a cam has 224 degrees means nothing as far as valve spring requirements.
It all depends on the cams rate of lift & of course total lift of the cam.

Yes there are variations and also the weight of the components after the pivot point of the rocker arm count a lot to spring requirements. That's also why we sixbangers can use the VS-733 for example, with bigger duration cams than those guys using it in a 289/302 environment as we typically have lighter valves, locks and retainers. And less lift than what a SBF cam would in many cases have with comparable duration.

wsa111":2h0ylpt5 said:
Any decent performance camshaft will need at least 110# seat & possibly 280# open pressure.
Check with your cam grinders recommendation for the spring needed for the camshaft you choose.
Just going to a 1.6 rocker ratio will help a mild camshaft.

Depends on what is considered decent. I think a CSC 274/110 is a decent cam in our motors, and that lives with 80lbs on seat. At least my engine does as it runs fine to the rpm the cam specs give for its powerband without floating.

I'd follow the cam grinders recommendation too, in most cases. What I have noticed though, that usually the recommendations are a little on the dangerous side (which is strange, to my thinking) as they recommend springs that feel 'mild' for the application. Especially true with Comp Cams, and some others. Or maybe they recommend the spring for a little uncommon application, like 8mm valve stems, titanium retainers, and/or around 1.300" OD springs with smaller retainers etc. Also the springs may fade very soon so that should be taken into account too. I've seen 140lbs on seat vanish into 110lbs during a 25min break-in period plus a few dyno pulls. Bill is absolutely right that you should be on the safe side and add a little extra on the springs. Fortunately our sixes are not at all so prone to big disaster if the valves float, as there seem to be plenty of room between the valve and piston even with tight deck heights, as the cast iron heads have the valves deep into the chambers. Take a performance SBF head like the AFR, and you have valve's edge below (intake) or very close (exhaust) to the deck surface. Enter valve float - bang - your exhaust valves meet with pistons.

After changing rocker ratios I'd also consider spring changes. Higher ratios boost the cam without affecting its basic timing. In any case I see a major problem is flow at low lifts of the cam which is typical for a small bore engine. Add bigger valves and it doesn't help much. Backcut intakes - huge improvement. Plus more gains with chamber work and unshrouding, which is free of charge if self-made and doesn't require valve spring considerations...

Sorry off topics a little, you can throw things at me at the meeting in AL next week. Moderators feel free to delete if necessary.
 
80 stang
You are definitely not off topic.
The 274 clay smith cam is a great cam & only requires 80# seat pressure.

That cam design being mild will live with non-roller rocker arms without causing undue wear.

Give the 274 some ++rocker ratio & it comes alive.

I would advise when you approach the 110#-120# seat pressure that you at least use the 1.6 roller tip rocker arms.

When you get into higher spring pressures & also lower pressures if you want the extra lift the full roller yella-terra 1.65 rocker arm is the only rocker arm that will live & due to the full roller design will provide less friction.

Remember the 1.65 yella-terra uses the oil through pushrod for oil.

If you use the 1.65 yella-terra rockers you also need to tap the oil supply orifice to the head with a 5/16" plug, so the head gasket does not see full oil pressure.

FSCN00902009-01-07.jpg


If you don't block the oil galley in the block, the head gasket will eventially leak oil at the left rear of the block. Bill
 
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