wanna swap??

MRJLB84D

Well-known member
decided to go an auto behind my turbo motor so have for swap:

5 speed celica steel case gearbox (have pics)
modified bellhousing
Clutch
tailshaft (to suit B/W)
modified speedo cable
other spares inc

looking to swap for a reco'd kitted C4 with bell and converter

What ya's reakon about going the auto behind the turbo? better or worse?
 
Auto is definately better for a street car with turbo. No clutch slip when you hit boost at cruising speeds :wink: Just make sure of what diff ratio you are going to run before deciding on a stall speed.
 
A fully built C4 is over $1200 locally. From memory, that'd be about $500 more than you paid for the Celica stuff. :P

You'll get a candidate C4 for rebuilding at $200 or less, add $350 for a couple of 6 pinion planetaries, some more for a Transgo shift kit, extra again for a high performance clutch and band kit, then standard rebuild costs plus a stallie. Probably add a ratchet shifter into your costs.

And you lose the overdrive.
 
actually addo by the time i got the 5speed in the cost was close to $1100.

the celica box doesnt have an overdrive and 5th gear is pretty close to being the same ratio as the standard 3 speed but the extra couple of gears are nice
 
mY C4/C9 .. ended up oweing me 2200 all up with convereter and brand new valve body.... So mabie if u offerd some cash as well u would get some people interested..

The auto is the best thing u could do with the turbo, you will be able to leave the line on full boost..
Get a transbrake fitted as well if u end up building one
 
gotten prices for either a c4/9 or 10, prices are between $620-$700 depending on what stage i want, the later is fully manualised and kitted. then just need the convertor and shifter so say, $1500 should see me out?

As for the transbrake, yes please, they just controlled by a button right?

Well, either way when the new year comes around ill be pulling the old motor and the box out. least if they are out i might pull my finger out and get this new motor in and the nice auto :)
 
I dont want to know what kind of parts your getting (or should i say not) in a rebuilt and kitted C4 for $700

The clutch packs in my C9 cost nearly $600
TCI 26 spline imput shaft $344
Reverse shift manual valve body $412
B&M pro stick shifter $371

Thats not including the cost of the box or to have it striped cleaned, reasembled
modified pump and oil galls for increased oil pressure, modified clutch drums to fit extra clutches, strengthen and to stop fluid build up
kevlar bands, modified trust washers (extra oil holes) to stop them spinning

plus lots of other small changes have been done

All up my box shifter and converter cost nearly 3g

Transbrake for C4 is around $1300
 
Heres some nice piks to get ya wanting that auto a lil more.. I just picked it up tonight



9.5 inch converter , mmmm
 
those prices i got are prom ATW PERFORMANCE AUTOMATICS, found em in parts peddler.

Where did you get your box done at GASSED??

I have also emailed wholesale automatics about their "extreme" c6 box but still waiting a reply
 
Piece of haggis fitting a C6, mate! Just get one imported from a 300 I6 or a 1969 to 1983 351W which came from the F150 or 250 trucks. It comes with a 164 teeth ring gear. Some came out with an FMX, come had a truck C4 (Clevleand C10), others C6.

Yanks did it on the F150/250 and Broncos which were not 351M or 400 Ford powered. The tall Cleveland blocks (400 and 351M) which were used after 1971 no longer had dual pattern SBF bellhousings, and used a huge 167 or whatever C6 like the 390, 429 and 460's. That won't fit any X-flow.

Yanks are really, really good like that, there is always another option if the Canadians or United Auto Workers union stopped production. I read through all the old manuals, and they are out there in huge numbers if you know the models.


The vital ingredient to get an F150 300 or 351 truck C6 on your X-flow is this:-


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v223/xecute/DSC02330.jpg
 
well not really knowing the different between c4/c6/c9 etc i thought they were basically the same box

anyway, i got an email back from wholesale automatics which reads:

Rodney here from Wholesale Automatics.

I wouldn't use a C6 as they are not a good drag racing transmission. The
best transmission to use is the smaller C9 transmission that when built
correctly can handle quite a lot of power. We also use these transmission
with the V8 Engines.

The C9 will also bolt straight up to the 250 6cyl.

You can build them as either a full manual of a semi auto. You can fit any
of the B&M or Hurst range of T.bar kits. We find the B&M Quick Silver to be
a more reliable and very stronge unit.

We can built that as a 450Hp unit or a 650Hp unit.

No warranty on any transmission used for drag racing however we are
approachable.

Extreme Full Manual 650 Hp Stage III Outright C9 with Hi Tuff Input Shaft,
Cast Aluminium Sump, 4 Pin Chrome Molly Front Planetary, Keas Valve Body and
6cly bell housing is $3275 inc gst Outright.

Hi Stall Torque Convertor is extra depending on the stall speed.

Hope this helps.
Kind Regards
Rodney
Wholesale Automatic Transmissions
Factory 1/58 Barry St
Bayswater
Victoria 3153
Phone: 03-97628004

Now after going off what you said gassed, that price sounds a lot better than the possible cheap and nasty
 
A lot of the rebuilds here are basically a seal kit and friction parts. The steel plates are scuffed (real cheapskates) or tumbled.

There are differences between B&M and Transgo shift kits, at least in the milder forms. A full manual setup may not be to your taste if you drive the car much on the street. Especially if you have a ratchet shifter - reverse or parallel parking becomes a pain in the backside.

Where will you fit the tranny cooler?
 
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