Warm Start Up Issues

[Anonymous]

Hi All,

No MAJOR complaint here but I am curious as to starting procedures that you use after you've run the car for a few miles, stop it, and then restart it after its been off for 5-60 minutes or so.

Cold start is great, I simply pump twice, hold the pedal down and Vroooom she starts up with a hearty roar. But when I go to the market for example, and get back in 30 minutes later, she wants to turn turn turn and barely catch...I'm guessing this has to do with the automatic choke setting on my fairly new/rebuilt autolite 1100 (ponycarbs).

Any suggestions such as pumping it, or not pumping it, or I don't know...what do you all do?? May just be something I'll have to live with!

Thanks in advance...

P.s. I'm running new points now since my run in with pertronix.

 

[Lazy JW]

Hot re-start is when good ignition really pays off. Old Volkswagens are notorious for this problem. Hold the trottle wide open without pumping and crank until it starts.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

mine has the opposite problem? when cold it is a pain to start but once it warms up i barely have to touch the key and it roars to life.

 

[66200i6]

I agree with Lazy. The condition you are experiencing is heat soak. Understanding the problems will make the solutions easier to understand.

The shut down and loss of cooling heats the carb and fuel in the bowl to the point of boiling. The expanded fuel spills over into the intake and creates a rich condition. By opening the throttle plate and increasing the amount of air during starting corrects the Air-fuel and the engine fires.

This is a common condition and has a couple of solutions. The easiest is to install an insulator between the Intake Log and the carb. This cuts down on the transfer of heat cutting down on boil-over but doesn’t always completely eliminate the condition

Some of the old-timers have been known to use plywood as an insulator. I think the best material to use is a sheet of synthetic material called phynolic. These sheets provide a high R-value of insulation for the thickness as well as provide a good seal. Another solution would be to add an electric fan that is controlled by a thermostat and will run on after engine shuts down. With the addition of cooling after shut down the boil over is not only cured but is also better for the health of the engine. The continued washing of the cylinders from boil-over is hard on the finish of the bores at startup.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[Anonymous]

thanks for the great replies. I appreciate the fact that you took the time to actually explain the problem...Now I'll look into some insulation...thanks again!

 

[Anonymous]

on my 71 I had to put in a new starter and afterwards I had the same problem once the motor was warm the car wouldn't start at all untill the engine was cooled off.

turned out the ground wire was getting hot and would lose the ability to carry current (weak ground=weak start)

mike

 

[Anonymous]

If you have the carb adapter with the heater hose running through it, bypass it. This adds alot of heat that is not needed in warmer weather if at all. And also make sure that the choke is opened all the way after it is warmed up.