wastegate
- Thread starter matt1967
- Start date
you bet! you will just need to block off the internal passage on the hot side. generally this is done with a plate bolted in plac eof the elbow with your exhuast welded to that.
kinda on this topic how do you size wastegates and relief valves? linc can you help on this one?
kinda on this topic how do you size wastegates and relief valves? linc can you help on this one?
I notice that the external gates have 2 flanges, 1 on the side and 1 on the bottom, how do they get hooked up? also with the oiling thing, could I install a remote oil filter and run the turbo oil lines in line with it? I know they do this with oil coolers but not shure if it's a good idea with a turbo.
one of the flanges will bolt before the turbo and the other will re route the exhaust past the turbo to the downpipe after the turbo. At least thats what Ive come up with... in my head it makes sense... lol
Hasa68 is correct.
The flange where the valve face is visible, is the side that will be attached to the header prior to the turbine housing.
The other side (where you can see the backside of the valve) will be bolted to the downpipe/exhaust system or you can just exhuast it to atmosphere.
Will
The flange where the valve face is visible, is the side that will be attached to the header prior to the turbine housing.
The other side (where you can see the backside of the valve) will be bolted to the downpipe/exhaust system or you can just exhuast it to atmosphere.
Will
Thanks for clarifying that! I always thought you had to plumb it back to the exhaust but that works too!
could I make a neat cap on the side that goes into the down pipe, with vents in it? or should I route it back to the down pipe for street use, I can do that anyway. the way the Buick turbo is attached is through a pipe attached to the manifold, and the pipe has a flared end, a flange crimps over this and that's how it hooks in. cutting into this pipe for the wastegate and welding a flange should prove no problem.
I would just route it back in. if you vent it think large exhaust leak. may not be fun sucking in exhaust everytime you lift the throttle.
For a street car it's always better to route the exhaust from the wastegate into the downpipe wherever you have a convenient location to do it.
If you leave it open to atmosphere then it'll get loud when you floor it and the wastegate opens.
Although this method will tell everyone (including the police) that you're turbo'd and that you're on the gas!
Later,
Will
If you leave it open to atmosphere then it'll get loud when you floor it and the wastegate opens.
Although this method will tell everyone (including the police) that you're turbo'd and that you're on the gas!
Later,
Will
how much power do you think I'll make. I'm going to use a '80 head with the big chambers and valves, draw through buick 3.8 turbo which is a T3 super 60 and a wastegate that hopefully has a 3.5 PSI spring and a boost controller, that way when I don't want boost, I don't have very much.
ummm so that would limit your boost to 3.5 psi? if so not very much power... oops im retarded I just reread your post...
If you're going to use the smaller 38mm wastegate (Deltagate size) then the 1 1/2 or 1 5/8" tube will work great.
Put the 6lb spring in the wastegate. If you don't want the boost to come on, then don't mash the throttle.
Initially set the total timing at 27 degrees. The tune from there. If you're running a mech adv. distributor, then just limit the amount of travel so you'll get a 10 degree or so swing. That way your initial timing can be around 17 BTDC and total at 27 BTDC.
Will
Put the 6lb spring in the wastegate. If you don't want the boost to come on, then don't mash the throttle.
Initially set the total timing at 27 degrees. The tune from there. If you're running a mech adv. distributor, then just limit the amount of travel so you'll get a 10 degree or so swing. That way your initial timing can be around 17 BTDC and total at 27 BTDC.
Will
A
Anonymous
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matt1967":28jcjx6n said:
You will never be spooled/making boost by 1500 rpm! You'll be lucky if by 3000
matt1967":28jcjx6n said:
Forget points, do duraspark only. You will have to slide the reluctor off of the shaft and carefully remove the vacuum advance plate to get to the centrifugal weights underneath.
A
Anonymous
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matt1967":1kycxlf4 said:
you mean with BTM...."Boost timing master" timing retard function??
Forget those
matt1967":1kycxlf4 said:
al least 1 hp per cube, bot enough information to really say for sure.
I mean the box that allows the use of retard moduals ( it plugs into a 6Al not the 6 series box that has it intergrated ), I could get a 10* retard modual to limit the advance curve 10* so it would be 27* like Does10's suggested.
as for extra info for HP. I will be putting in new cast dished pistions and new rings, the '80 head and the carb will be a 600 CFM Holley blower carb and for the cam Adv dur - 268/274 Dur @.050 - 208/218 Lift -.455/.480 Lobe center - 110* Range - 1600-5400 which is mikes mildest cam I ran this setup with Dyno 2000 and came up with 275 HP, seems high. I'd be very happy with 200 HP. thanks in advance
as for extra info for HP. I will be putting in new cast dished pistions and new rings, the '80 head and the carb will be a 600 CFM Holley blower carb and for the cam Adv dur - 268/274 Dur @.050 - 208/218 Lift -.455/.480 Lobe center - 110* Range - 1600-5400 which is mikes mildest cam I ran this setup with Dyno 2000 and came up with 275 HP, seems high. I'd be very happy with 200 HP. thanks in advance
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