weber carb and elec. choke conversion

[Anonymous]

check out this conversion

http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Fuel_Pump_Conversion

does this sound like a sound plan?

what about the 4.5 psi elec. fuel pump with 1-4 psi pressure gage? does this sound good without any overloading of the pump?

I went to the redline site to look for the weber 38/38 DGAS elec choke carb but the closest thing i foun was a 38/38 DGES carb , but i know its not a typo because in the air filter section it says the filter will fit a DGES as well as a DGAS. does anyone have info on the DGAS weber carb? will the DGES carb work with the clifford DGV series 2 to 1 carb adaptor and carb linkage?

thanks for any help! cheers

 

[Falcon62]

You want an electric choke right? Why, are you searching for the DGAS? "A" means it has a water heated choke, "E" is electric. You want the DGES.

The DGV (A or E) should bolt up to the Clifford adapter with no problems, but I don't know about the linkage.

 

[ruckus68]

I have a brand new weber 38/38 DGES (electric choke) that i would be willing to sell for 250 shipped to your door

John

 

[Anonymous]

You want an electric choke right? Why, are you searching for the DGAS? "A" means it has a water heated choke, "E" is electric. You want the DGES.

The DGV (A or E) should bolt up to the Clifford adapter with no problems, but I don't know about the linkage.

i was searching for the DGAS carb cause thats what the guy said on his tech page but i guess it was a typo after all. thanks for the info.

 

[Anonymous]

I have a brand new weber 38/38 DGES (electric choke) that i would be willing to sell for 250 shipped to your door

John

hey this is dave and i just sent u a private message regarding the carb, thanks.

 

[66200i6]

This same fuel pump circuit is used on Honda and other fuel systems for safety. The fuel pump power is available after oil pressure is reached. The idea is if the engine shuts down like after hitting a tree, there is a loss of oil pressure and the power to the fuel pump is lost shutting it down. Another method which could be used, is the field output created by the alternator. It can be used to control a relay that provides the power to the fuel pump.

The whole idea is to get that pump shut off in case you’re not all there to do it with the key. I hope this doesn’t happen to any one here.

Have fun, Ric.

 

[Anonymous]

thanks Ric for the explanation, it all makes sense now. is the webber carb better than a Holly carb?

 

[strat1960s]

Ok, I mean no offense but here goes. The Weber 38 DGAS that I have on my car has an electric choke. Cifford sells a kit that contains the carb, 2 into 1 adapter and throttle linkage. Part number: 08-K-202 (the part number may vary due to different bolt patterns) $ 499.00.
I am running my Weber 38 DGAS on my Oz head with a custom made adapter that ran me about $80. I sold all my linkage and 2 into 1 adapter. Anyhow, I am running the stock mechanical fuel pump at around 4 to 5 PSI. I had to set up throttle and trans kickdown cables due to my carb being rotated 90* from the normal location. If you have any questions, I can send you all the part numbers and a brief description of how I did it.
hope this helps
Ted

 

[ludwig]

I talked to John, the owner of Pony carbs the other day and mentioned using a 2bbl on the 6. He is real proud of his 1100s of course and said that there was only a limited gain in HP with a 2bbl. He said it was the physics of spooging two times the mix through the same hole as one barrel.
So what's the poop here? If the carb/intake is the same, does the Clifford adaptor and the Holly/Weber make a real difference? I mean is it worth all the trouble and money?
And what if I want to keep the stock aircleaner with my DYI ram air. Will it work as well as the open air cleaner they all seem to be sporting?

 

[66200i6]

I’m convinced that the velocity in the primary throat needs to be kept at a higher level. This provides better atomization and a better responding carb signal (mileage). The 32/36 DFV (my preference) or DGV has the same primary size as the Autolite. It doesn’t matter if you are running a 1.5" or the 1.7” log intake. The smallest orifice in this setup is the primary throat of the Weber, Holley or Autolite venturi. The advantage of the progressive two-barrel, whether it is the 32/36 or Holley 5200 models, is that additional barrel. The secondary will provide additional airflow for those times you may need the additional RPM.

On a side note I would suggest you make the upgrade to the DII distributor before or at the same time. The vacuum signal to the stock distributor is a calibrated/regulated combination of manifold and carb signal in a special circuit built into the Autolite 1100.

Good luck, and have fun. Ric.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok, I mean no offense but here goes. The Weber 38 DGAS that I have on my car has an electric choke. Cifford sells a kit that contains the carb, 2 into 1 adapter and throttle linkage. Part number: 08-K-202 (the part number may vary due to different bolt patterns) $ 499.00.
I am running my Weber 38 DGAS on my Oz head with a custom made adapter that ran me about $80. I sold all my linkage and 2 into 1 adapter. Anyhow, I am running the stock mechanical fuel pump at around 4 to 5 PSI. I had to set up throttle and trans kickdown cables due to my carb being rotated 90* from the normal location. If you have any questions, I can send you all the part numbers and a brief description of how I did it.
hope this helps
Ted

ok! since your running a stock pump how do u find it runs, on the redline site it says that the weber carb needs a consistand flow of fuel rather than a pulsing one. i just have a stock head so everything should just bolt on right?

 

[Anonymous]

would it be an idea to custom make an adaptor plate to fit a 2 bbl. an just open up the hole in the log? how about something that has hot water flowing throught the plate to heat it up and help with gas atomization?

 

[strat1960s]

Dave,

First off, I am having problems with the motor dying when I stop the car at an intersection. I highly doubt it is due to a lack of fuel pressure. I am leaning towards bad tuning. When Driving the car, though, it is great.
When I spoke to folks at Redline, they told me the stock fuel pump was just right for the 38 DGAS.
If you go with the Clifford kit, yes, everything will bolt up. I have an OZ head, so things went in a different direction and I had to modify it all, just a little. The OZ head and stock 200 head, are both set up to use the heater hose to warm up the fuel. Since I am running dual headers, I don't need to use the heater hose. They get plenty warm from the heat rising up off the headers.

Ted

 

[Anonymous]

thanks ted for the info. i have assimilated it. if i can find a used carb or something like john was saying he had and then i bought the adaptors and stuff i could save a few $$ but thanks for the info im glad to learn that i can keep my stock pump.

 

[ruckus68]

you should check out mustang geezers site and do something like he did with a direct mount 2 bbl. I think you will seen better performance and more underhood clearance. he added a 500 cfm carb as did I, that is why i have the weber 38/38 for sale.

good luck with what ever you do, but remember this - Direct mount = more performance and with our six's we need every bit.

john

 

[Anonymous]

good luck with what ever you do, but remember this - Direct mount = more performance and with our six's we need every bit.

thanks john i will work on a custom plate like mustang geezers and hope i dont run into any problems. does it matter what type of aluminum i use?