Weber 38/38 DGS and various Distributors

I wanted to give you guys an update. I have been driving her all summer while continuously tinkering with idle speed, mixtures, and timing. I am currently running 50 jets in it. I started over on the settings at the beginning of this week because the motor was tough to start whether it was cold or hot. I slowly brought up the initial timing, so I could then back off on the idle speed screw. She is running a bit rich because I am still into the intermediate port on the carb a tiny but. I enrichen the mixtures and then reduce the idle speed. She currently is idling at 800 rpm, which the motor seems to like. NOTE: Weber's are very touchy. I am enriching the mixtures by 1/16 to 1/32 turn, and the idle speed by 1/64 at a time while keeping the idle speed at 800 rpm. I think some of my problems in the past was I was being to heavy handed with adjustments and going past the elusive sweet spot.
Glad you're back on the road!
What ignition system is on 'er? Just points, or electronic? Hard starting and extremely sensitive idle tuning have me wondering how hot the fire is.
Adding the ignition module to stock points on our old car made a noticeable improvement in these areas, surprisingly so. Actually raised the idle speed 80 rpm with no before/after changes to timing or the carb.
 
Glad you're back on the road!
What ignition system is on 'er? Just points, or electronic? Hard starting and extremely sensitive idle tuning have me wondering how hot the fire is.
Adding the ignition module to stock points on our old car made a noticeable improvement in these areas, surprisingly so. Actually raised the idle speed 80 rpm with no before/after changes to timing or the carb.
I am using that Mallory Dual Point. Trying to stay away from electronics if I can help it. She starts really nice now after my latest set of adjustments.
 
I am using that Mallory Dual Point. Trying to stay away from electronics if I can help it. She starts really nice now after my latest set of adjustments.
Ok, that's a good set up. You know I like simple too. If you ever want to increase your spark output 3X and never have to adjust points or have them burn out, the TFI module used on the EFI Fords is the best solution in my opinion, and experience. No changes to the current points distributor, and the module keeps dwell precise (no need to gap the points precisely or repeatedly), and it reduces the current through the points from, all the current going to the coil to about 10 milliamps. The coil gets full 12V power, no ballast resistor. I've got this on two vehicles and it's an excellent hybrid system. Just FYI.
 
After all of the work I have put into this Weber 38/38... I would not recommend it unless you want to make constant adjustments due to fluctuations in the weather. I say this because where I am located the temps are going from almost 90 one day to low 70's another, and I am having to adjust the mixtures to compensate for it. I wonder if the Weber 32/36 is a little more forgiving. With that being said I am probably going to save up for a 4 barrel Edelbrock or Holley. Any recommendations for 4-barrels?
 
After all of the work I have put into this Weber 38/38... I would not recommend it unless you want to make constant adjustments due to fluctuations in the weather. I say this because where I am located the temps are going from almost 90 one day to low 70's another, and I am having to adjust the mixtures to compensate for it. I wonder if the Weber 32/36 is a little more forgiving. With that being said I am probably going to save up for a 4 barrel Edelbrock or Holley. Any recommendations for 4-barrels?
E'brock has the most tuning flexibility, and easiest to tune with no gas spilled. But their smallest is 500 cfm. That's a bit big for the application and since it's mechanical secondarys you may fight a slight bog when kicking in. The Holley 390 has been the best running carb on my 300. Because it runs so well I keep it, but do not like it's bulky size and having to be disassembled to tune.
Have you considered 2 barrels? Simpler, and plenty of air for the smaller engine.
 
E'brock has the most tuning flexibility, and easiest to tune with no gas spilled. But their smallest is 500 cfm. That's a bit big for the application and since it's mechanical secondarys you may fight a slight bog when kicking in. The Holley 390 has been the best running carb on my 300. Because it runs so well I keep it, but do not like it's bulky size and having to be disassembled to tune.
Have you considered 2 barrels? Simpler, and plenty of air for the smaller engine.
I am not going to give clifford the amount of money they want for a 2X2 intake. I could buy two 4 barrels for that price. Thanks for the input on the Holley vs. Edelbrock. I am up in the air about it. I talked to a buddy of mine that had a 67 firebird with a 250 in it, that ran a quadrajet. The smallest one of those was 750 CFM. I bring that up because of what you said, and I had the same thoughts that it would be to much carb. Thanks for your real world experience with the Holley.
 
I am not going to give clifford the amount of money they want for a 2X2 intake. I could buy two 4 barrels for that price. Thanks for the input on the Holley vs. Edelbrock. I am up in the air about it. I talked to a buddy of mine that had a 67 firebird with a 250 in it, that ran a quadrajet. The smallest one of those was 750 CFM. I bring that up because of what you said, and I had the same thoughts that it would be to much carb. Thanks for your real world experience with the Holley.
The Q jet is superior to the E'brock, although both have the same design secondaries: The throttles open all the way with the pedal and airflow/fuel metering is controlled by the upper air valve above the throttles. The E'brock is not as accurate at doing this, especially the original "performer" series. The air control valves on the performer don't cover the entire airflow path, and it is not adjustable, a fixed weight governs opening rate when the incoming air forces it open. Small displacement engines more-or-less always have a lean bog because too much air is passing the upper valve, not generating enough air pressure for fuel to feed from the venturi. The AVS series E'brock has a better design: the air valve covers most of the airflow path and the rate of opening is governed by an adjustable spring. Unfortunately I don't have personal experience with the AVS but with correct tuning it probably wouldn't bog. But the secondary fuel supply is fixed, it's an open jet. Also, there is no shot of accelerator-pump fuel in these mechanical secondary carbs, which also increases the likelihood of bog.
The Quadrajet's engineering is superior. The air valve completely seals the secondary barrels. when enough air demand begins to open them, there is a vacuum controlled shot of fuel added to cover the transition. An accelerator pump shot. AFAIK the "double pumper" modular carbs are the only other carbs to have an accelerator pump-shot in the secondaries. Also the Q jet has metering rods attached to the secondary air valve so the fuel thru the jet is increased as the airflow increases. The Q jet can correctly fuel engines from 140 cid to over 500 cid with the same carb.
I've observed how far the secondary air valve opens on a Qjet. 305 Chevy in a van, doghouse cover and air filter housing removed. With the engine bellowing at WOT the air valve on the Q jet was open maybe 15-20 degrees on the 305. It is not accurate to say all Q jets are 750 (or 800) CFM. They accurately let in the air the engine can take, and meter the fuel accordingly. On the 305 engine, even though the actual throttles were fully open (750 cfm potential), the carb was feeding the engine perhaps 350-400 cfm.
So even though the Q jet is technically a mechanical secondary carb, it meters the airflow into the engine in the same way a vacuum secondary carb does.
 
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E'brock has the most tuning flexibility, and easiest to tune with no gas spilled. But their smallest is 500 cfm. That's a bit big for the application and since it's mechanical secondarys you may fight a slight bog when kicking in. The Holley 390 has been the best running carb on my 300. Because it runs so well I keep it, but do not like it's bulky size and having to be disassembled to tune.
Have you considered 2 barrels? Simpler, and plenty of air for the smaller engine.
Sickboy49,
If you’re considering a 4 barrel, get the smallest one available.

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The Holley 390 is a great carb. I spent lots of time learning about the 390 and it is a simple carb to tune once it’s understood how tune it properly.

Tuning parts can be bought at NAPA, O’Reilly’s auto parts, Advance auto parts and many other places.

Edited:
Personally, I feel it’s one of the simplest carbs to tune. But, that is my opinion. I worked with my 390 long enough to see its potential. Pretty much, it’s the best matched 4 barrel carb for a stock 300.
It also works very well on a 240.

I think a Holley 390 might be too much for a stock 223. I think a Weber 32/36 would work well.

Having an AFR meter and vacuum gauge is a must these days to get carb tuning correct. I’m not sure if you have them.

Lots get into jetting, but overlook the power valve. To pick the proper power valve, you will need an AFR and vacuum gauge to figure out which power valve will be correct for your setup.
 
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Sickboy49,
If you’re considering a 4 barrel, get the smallest one available.

Edited:
The Holley 390 is a great carb. I spent lots of time learning about the 390 and it is a simple carb to tune once it’s understood how tune it properly.

Tuning parts can be bought at NAPA, O’Reilly’s auto parts, Advance auto parts and many other places.

Edited:
Personally, I feel it’s one of the simplest carbs to tune. But, that is my opinion. I worked with my 390 long enough to see its potential. Pretty much, it’s the best matched 4 barrel carb for a stock 300.
It also works very well on a 240.

I think a Holley 390 might be too much for a stock 223. I think a Weber 32/36 would work well.

Having an AFR meter and vacuum gauge is a must these days to get carb tuning correct. I’m not sure if you have them.

Lots get into jetting, but overlook the power valve. To pick the proper power valve, you will need an AFR and vacuum gauge to figure out which power valve will be correct for your setup.
FYI it is not a stock 223 anymore. It has been bored .40 over and has a clifford intake and a custom header. Since I have a Weber 38/38 on it already (and find the carb lacking) I do not want to put another Weber on it.
 
The Q jet is superior to the E'brock, although both have the same design secondaries: The throttles open all the way with the pedal and airflow/fuel metering is controlled by the upper air valve above the throttles. The E'brock is not as accurate at doing this, especially the original "performer" series. The air control valves on the performer don't cover the entire airflow path, and it is not adjustable, a fixed weight governs opening rate when the incoming air forces it open. Small displacement engines more-or-less always have a lean bog because too much air is passing the upper valve, not generating enough air pressure for fuel to feed from the venturi. The AVS series E'brock has a better design: the air valve covers most of the airflow path and the rate of opening is governed by an adjustable spring. Unfortunately I don't have personal experience with the AVS but with correct tuning it probably wouldn't bog. But the secondary fuel supply is fixed, it's an open jet. Also, there is no shot of accelerator-pump fuel in these mechanical secondary carbs, which also increases the likelihood of bog.
The Quadrajet's engineering is superior. The air valve completely seals the secondary barrels. when enough air demand begins to open them, there is a vacuum controlled shot of fuel added to cover the transition. An accelerator pump shot. AFAIK the "double pumper" modular carbs are the only other carbs to have an accelerator pump-shot in the secondaries. Also the Q jet has metering rods attached to the secondary air valve so the fuel thru the jet is increased as the airflow increases. The Q jet can correctly fuel engines from 140 cid to over 500 cid with the same carb.
I've observed how far the secondary air valve opens on a Qjet. 305 Chevy in a van, doghouse cover and air filter housing removed. With the engine bellowing at WOT the air valve on the Q jet was open maybe 15-20 degrees on the 305. It is not accurate to say all Q jets are 750 (or 800) CFM. They accurately let in the air the engine can take, and meter the fuel accordingly. On the 305 engine, even though the actual throttles were fully open (750 cfm potential), the carb was feeding the engine perhaps 350-400 cfm.
So even though the Q jet is technically a mechanical secondary carb, it meters the airflow into the engine in the same way a vacuum secondary carb does.
Thank you for correcting me.
 
Thank you for correcting me.
You're welcome - my thinking is more to inform than "correct". :)
Even when the Qjet was still in production, very few guys, even GM guys, would tackle it to tune out the emissions restrictions on it. It got a bad rap for bog and slow response. It is not user friendly to work on, but if the time is taken and the right changes made the Quadrajet comes out ahead of most anything else. Not just performance, the tiny fuel bowl is between the front barrels, keeping the fuel cooler. And in marine or offroad applications where jarring and steep angles are a factor, the Q jet stands alone as the best at fuel bowl slosh/mixture control. I only posted about it to be informative, even lifetime machine guys, most are unaware of the features and potential of this obsolete diamond in the rough.

So your intake: is it a 4 barrel or 2 barrel design? The Weber is a 2V isn't it? So you'd use an adapter to mount a 4V? Sorry, I'm not familiar with that intake.
 
You're welcome - my thinking is more to inform than "correct". :)
Even when the Qjet was still in production, very few guys, even GM guys, would tackle it to tune out the emissions restrictions on it. It got a bad rap for bog and slow response. It is not user friendly to work on, but if the time is taken and the right changes made the Quadrajet comes out ahead of most anything else. Not just performance, the tiny fuel bowl is between the front barrels, keeping the fuel cooler. And in marine or offroad applications where jarring and steep angles are a factor, the Q jet stands alone as the best at fuel bowl slosh/mixture control. I only posted about it to be informative, even lifetime machine guys, most are unaware of the features and potential of this obsolete diamond in the rough.

So your intake: is it a 4 barrel or 2 barrel design? The Weber is a 2V isn't it? So you'd use an adapter to mount a 4V? Sorry, I'm not familiar with that intake.
Sorry if I came off pissy... that was not my intention. Thank you for the information. The intake from clifford can use two or 4 barrel carbs depending on which adapter plate you get. I do have a question about CFM. I get the less is more explanation for carbs for smaller displacement motors, but...... How come guys are getting away with running two 2 barrels on a 223. That would be over 500 CFM. Maybe they are just not using the carbs to there full potential?
 
Sorry if I came off pissy... that was not my intention. Thank you for the information. The intake from clifford can use two or 4 barrel carbs depending on which adapter plate you get. I do have a question about CFM. I get the less is more explanation for carbs for smaller displacement motors, but...... How come guys are getting away with running two 2 barrels on a 223. That would be over 500 CFM. Maybe they are just not using the carbs to there full potential?
We're all good man, just want to be sure I don't come of smart, it's never my intent.
The deal with carbs is, they are just a straw in an airstream, the air pulls fuel out of the straw by the low pressure caused as it passes over the straw tip. The more air flowing through the venturi, the stronger the fuel signal and the mixture is controlled more accurately. Additionally the faster flow (small carb vs large) causes the fuel to be broken up better. Thus there's always a compromise between using the smallest carb for best response and economy, and being big enough to supply max power. This tug-of-war is why progressive-opening 4V carbs were created.
When a big carb bogs, it's because the airflow is too slow to pull any/enough fuel from the jet and up the straw, the engine goes way lean. Sometimes guys think it's the other way round, "she won't take the gas!" No, the bog is a lack of gas not too much, because there's too many barrels open, the air is barely moving and can't pull the fuel to the top of the straw. The fuel that does come out is in globs because of the lack of shear in the slow air, economy and balanced distribution are reduced.

A 223 cu in engine at 80% volumetric efficiency breathes: 103 cfm @ 2000 rpm, 155cfm @ 3000 rpm, 206 cfm @ 4000 rpm, 258 cfm @ 5000 rpm.
The 280 cfm 2V carbs used in the pre-emission era on 300-307 cubic inch stock V8's produced 210 HP and 310 lbs of torque. In a 4 barrel rating, that's equal to a 196cfm carb- making these power numbers. For all normal street driving, a small carb's advantages outweigh the gradual loss of maximum potential power at high rpm- in my humble opinion.

If our engines were rotary pumps with a steady-state air demand, the above numbers would be the end of the story. Any carb bigger than the numbers above would be a waste of carb size, it would never be used. Since they're a piston pump which draws nothing aprox. 70% of the time, then suddenly gulps in a breath, the whole concept gets almost infinitely complex, as fluid dynamics is complex. Multiple pressure waves bouncing around in the intake, and we're drawing in two fluids with different densities. AFAIK there's not a fixed formula for how much bigger a carb needs to be than what the max gross airflow volume is. Camshaft, plenum volume, street or race application, etc all affect the size of the ideal carb. Regardless, the mindset of too much carb being necessary for modest street engines is the norm, and has been for a long time. On a stock or near stock cam engine used for legal on-street driving, a carb with a rating near the cubic inch will have the best street manners and economy. And no slouch on power. 200 HP and over 300 lbs of torque moved a heavy Buick or Chevy just fine @ 280 cfm, a cfm rating 9% less than the cubic inch of the engine.

On your 223 with your good intake, a 350cfm 2V or a 390 cfm (Holley) or 450 cfm (Quick Fuel) should be near ideal. Any thing bigger than that is not going to gain on the street. A 4V gives the advantage of the small carb efficiency during calm driving, then the additional "second 2 barrel carb" for WOT power and rpm. The vacuum-controlled secondary type will perform better, since it regulates throttle opening to air demand. The Edelbrock 500 cfm would probably bog when the back barrels come in, on that small engine. The Quick Fuel has more tuning features than the Holley, particularly the adjustable vacuum control of the secondaries. This carb would be first choice were I looking for a 4V for our small sixes. It's also very reasonably priced, relatively speaking.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-sl-450-vs
 
The Quick Fuel is more tuneable but, that would not stop me from buying a good used Holley 390. The 390 is probably the best matched 4 barrel carb for a stock 300.

I can’t believe how much the price went up on the 390 since I bought the one I have. I should have bought a bunch of them.

The 390 can be updated with a Quick Fuel secondary metering plate. And primary metering block if needed.

Holley Engineering department pulled up the stock 390 metering plate spec’s and together we figured out the proper air restrictor jet size for the Quick Fuel secondary metering plate. Without changing them, the 4 corner idle circuit would probably not be working well.

An adjustable secondary idle circuit with idle screws on a metering block for a 390 is not needed for most of us. A secondary metering plate reduces the chance of fuel leakage and lessens the chance of idle mixture going out of tune.

The vacuum secondary diaphragm works fine on my 390. No need to replace it. Just buy the spring kit and most can get away with them.

Once one understands how to tune a Holley 390, it’s a piece of cake from there.

An AFR meter and a vacuum gauge is a must to get any carb tuned correctly. Without them it’s just a guessing game.

For a 223 mild build, I think a 390 would be a better match than a Quick Fuel 450. But that is my opinion.
 
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I am been letting this rattle around in my brain for awhile, and the whole "less is more" argument keeps sticking in brain. I might just try a 32/26 since I am now pretty confident in my weber tuning abilities. I read over the setup on them and they seem a little less touchy then the 38/38's. Plus I have all the hardware for it (jets, gaskets). Plus the place I order from has a 30 day return policy, and I definitely will be able to tell if it will work within that time frame. Nothing ventured, nothing gained... right?
 
I am been letting this rattle around in my brain for awhile, and the whole "less is more" argument keeps sticking in brain. I might just try a 32/26 since I am now pretty confident in my weber tuning abilities. I read over the setup on them and they seem a little less touchy then the 38/38's. Plus I have all the hardware for it (jets, gaskets). Plus the place I order from has a 30 day return policy, and I definitely will be able to tell if it will work within that time frame. Nothing ventured, nothing gained... right?
I read this all the way from start to finish, you persistance is admirable, have you ever thought about a motorcraft 1.01 or 1.02 venturi 2100, or even .98 if you can find any of these, they are not the most common and you will probably have to rebuild a used one, IMHO and that of others, simplest carb and long lasting, it doesn't get simpler, I think there better than the 350 and 500 holleys for our smaller sixes, everthing has its place, I'm looking for a 1.02 or 1.01 venturi myself for a 200, came close a time or too, really just need the venturi body, as the large venturi are still kind of plentiful, the 390 4 barrel is nice even though it is in theory to big, but the secondaries will keep the carb in line by only opening so much as vacuum will permit, expensive these days. My interest in this is I will be putting a 38/38 weber on a ci headed 200, I pray its alot easier, this is my longest post anywhere in years. Got away from the forums, most are alot more diplomatic and patient than myself.
 
I read this all the way from start to finish, you persistance is admirable, have you ever thought about a motorcraft 1.01 or 1.02 venturi 2100, or even .98 if you can find any of these, they are not the most common and you will probably have to rebuild a used one, IMHO and that of others, simplest carb and long lasting, it doesn't get simpler, I think there better than the 350 and 500 holleys for our smaller sixes, everthing has its place, I'm looking for a 1.02 or 1.01 venturi myself for a 200, came close a time or too, really just need the venturi body, as the large venturi are still kind of plentiful, the 390 4 barrel is nice even though it is in theory to big, but the secondaries will keep the carb in line by only opening so much as vacuum will permit, expensive these days. My interest in this is I will be putting a 38/38 weber on a ci headed 200, I pray its alot easier, this is my longest post anywhere in years. Got away from the forums, most are alot more diplomatic and patient than myself.
I was thinking about the motorcraft carbs, but they are so hard to come by. Also if you are looking for a 38/38 I would be willing to sell you an extra I have for a reasonable price plus shipping.
 
I was thinking about the motorcraft carbs, but they are so hard to come by. Also if you are looking for a 38/38 I would be willing to sell you an extra I have for a reasonable price plus shipping.
I'll be pulling the 1.02 Motorcraft 2100 carb off a truck soon. That's 243cfm. I want to try a 2150 M'craft I picked up. I have a AFR gauge, the carb runs rich in the transition circuit. that is, very light throttle. It's good everywhere else including cold start up, electric choke works perfect. Let me know if you'd like to have it. In excellent physical condition.
Great manners and plenty of power on a 240.
 

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I'll be pulling the 1.02 Motorcraft 2100 carb off a truck soon. That's 243cfm. I want to try a 2150 M'craft I picked up. I have a AFR gauge, the carb runs rich in the transition circuit. that is, very light throttle. It's good everywhere else including cold start up, electric choke works perfect. Let me know if you'd like to have it. In excellent physical condition.
Great manners and plenty of power on a 240.
I wonder what kind of adapter plate I would need for that for my Clifford intake?
 
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