What Could it BE!!!

[Anonymous]

well if you have a cylinder with good compression that is full of gas it has an ignition problem on that cylinder. Perhaps just fouled a plug and it never cleared up. why did it foul?? Perkaps just bad luck--maybe a bad or loose plug wire--maybe 2 plug wires crossed up (firing order 153624) Maybe a choke malfunction.
.
Dieing under load could be a few different things such as bad vac adv. diaphram-(easy to check; timing mark should walk around pully counterclockwise when reved);crossed plug wires (firing order mixup) ;partialy clogged main jet(common after carb work, a little flake of rust or rubber gas line gets in there); A bad condensor on the points ( a hard thing to check but they are cheap); A vac leak--(torn carb base gasket or vac line disconnected). Choke malfunctioning-(closeing up when throttle is opened caused by linkage or spring problems). Points gap incorrect (usually too small a gap and it won't open enough for hi rpm); Worn out plug/ coil wires(usually a very neglected item). And of course a fouled plug or two. or incorrect plug gap.

 

[Anonymous]

Hmm ... so after looking at it some more we realized the gas was becuase my little brother was mashing on the gas pedal before we testd that cylinder hahah yeaaaaaaaaaa .... little brothers .... neway that worked out great cuz now the compresion is around 130 on all 6 and no gas is leaking ... me and my dad checked all the gaps sparks and everythign is ok ... we adjusted the timing till it pinged and then backed off ... it sounds good but we will try it after the battery charges back up ... cross ur fingers ...


Thanks for the Help

Thomas

 

[Anonymous]

Soooo ... just got back from the test drive ... good news ... car does not sputter and stop .... bad news .... car engine pings ..???? timing at around 22 my guess .... any sugestions ..?

Thomas

 

[Lazy JW]

Hmm ... so after looking at it some more we realized the gas was becuase my little brother was mashing on the gas pedal before we testd that cylinder hahah yeaaaaaaaaaa .... little brothers .... neway that worked out great cuz now the compresion is around 130 on all 6 and no gas is leaking ... me and my dad checked all the gaps sparks and everythign is ok ... we adjusted the timing till it pinged and then backed off ... it sounds good but we will try it after the battery charges back up ... cross ur fingers ...


Thanks for the Help

Thomas

The proper way to check compression is to disable the ignition for safety, remove ALL of the spark plugs, and hold the throttle wide open while cranking.

You really need to verify your TDC marks and check the advance as the engine revs up.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

What is the pinging sound and how can it be fixed???


Thomas

 

[Lazy JW]

The "pinging sound" is called "detonation" and is the sound of your engine slowly destroying itself.

Back off the timing or put in some premium. You really need to check out the ignition advance mechanism in the distributor.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Lazy JW ... I will back off the timing ... describe to me how to check the ignition advance mechanism please : ...


Thanks

Thomas

 

[Lazy JW]

It is important to first verify that your timing marks are correct. These crank pulleys are known to sometimes slip, thereby causing the marks to be in the wrong place.

Starting at the existing TDC mark, make new marks every 5º up to at least 40º Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). Do this by using Pi to find the circumference of the pulley, divide by 360º, etc. Use a flexible steel rule and a silver colored Sharpie marker. Or use white tape and a pen. Whatever. Just get some accurate marks on the thing.

Next, check for TDC. You need a physical stop to install in the #1 spark plug hole. A bolt with the same threads as the spark plug will work. Or you can buy one. Or make one by breaking the ceramic out of an old spark plug, tapping (threading) the bore of the plug, and screw a longer bolt in there.

Remove all spark plugs.
Disconnect the battery (for safety)
Rotate the engine by hand until you see the piston coming up
Install the stop bolt
CAREFULLY rotate the engine until it just stops
Mark the crank pulley with a pencil (whatever) at the TDC pointer
Rotate the engine the other way until it just stops (GENTLY)
Mark the crank pulley again.

TDC is exactly halfway between the marks.

This should keep you occupied for awhile. Keep us posted. Gotta go to work now.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

describe to me how to check the ignition advance mechanism please ...

bad vac adv. diaphram-(easy to check; timing mark should walk around pully counterclockwise when reved);

Watch your mark with the timing light, when reved it will move on the pulley over the top of the pully. Inial timing with vac adv. disconnected should be somewhere between 6* and 14* BTDC at idle. The higher the number the higher the octane needed.

A quick way to check your pulley for slippage (first step is mark the dizzy base just below the #1 terminal on the dizzy cap) is to carefully insert something in plug hole rotate the engine till whatever you use (screwdriver or even a straw) is at it's peak you will find a place where you can go back and forth a little with the fan and the straw will rise and fall do this with the timing mark lined up and the rotor button pointing at #1 cyl on the dizzy cap. The timing mark will line up more than 1'ce but lf you have the button pointing at #1 cyl location on the cap (generally pretty much towards the fender)and the mark close to the pointer and at TDC(top dead center) you are sure of hitting the compression stroke. If at precisely tdc of the piston the pointer is pointing at zero on the pulley if it hasn't slipped- if it is a little off just remark it with white out or chalk. Copy the scale from the pulley by rubbing a pencil over a piece of paper held on the pulley add a mark at about 10* btdc and set it there and try it.