What next?

chandler

Well-known member
Well I am finishing up my suspension and Im looking to the near future wondering whats next. Have new suspension all round, exhaust, pertronix, the interior is good, and the exterior is good (one spot of rust before the driverside wheel) but that can wait. Im driving the car this summer but then after that it pobably see much use. Ill be at MMA and I dont really feel like putting a bunch of miles on it driving back and forth and dont want it out in the nasty salt air. What can I do for now? 2v carb? Anything with a notciable butt-o-meter difference would be nice.
 
Howdy Chandler and all:

If you're still running a stock '68 Autolite 1100 It will have a 1.10" venturi. These were down sized in '68 and '69 200s in a corperate attempt at better gas mileage. It hurt performance significantly. The 1.1" flows 150, the 1.2" is rated at 185 FCM.

You have two options for a bolt on. One is to find an earlier 1100 with a 1.20" venturi to swap in for your 1.10" venturi. The venturi are plastic inserts on these carbs. They are difficult to get loose, but it can be done without ruining it. Pony Carb does this on its High Performance 1V carb option.

The second option is to get an 1101 from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine. These Autolites have a venturi of 1.29" and are rated at 215 CFM. You will need to flare or funnel your stock carb adaptor to clear the larger diameter butterfly and slot the carb mounting holes to fit your carb mounting studs.

Other than that your stock linkage, fuel, vacuum and choke lines should line right up and the stock air cleaner will fit to. The only down side is that the 1101s are getting scarce. The 1101 Autolite will look very much like your stock 1100 with a significant difference in performance. Difinitely noticeable in the "Butt-o-meter"!

Adios, David
 
Im thinking a carb is a good idea I like the 69 250 Autolite. What about a holley 2 barrel? Down the road Id like to see an alum. head and supercharger along with a T5.
 
If you can swing it, I vote for a cam. It won't run lean if undercarbed and cammed up, just not reach full potential. And when you do take care of induction later, the cam is already there.

Cheers, Adam.
 
Thanks Addo I had never really thought about a cam before. What should I be looking for in a cam-its not exactly my specialty. Can it be done with the motor in the car? Pull the rad. and grill. I need to paint my water pump and thermostat housing anyway. Along with new lifers/pushrods becuase mine are ticking away and a new head gasket wouldnt hurt...O lord I have some work cut out for me. I guess I have to talk my buddy at work into it. Even after the exhaust he still thinks I need a V8 and I owe him compound and wax on his boat for my suspension...
 
I'd choose something with a duration of no more than 280° exhaust side, if a split pattern. Otherwise, around 270° and a shade over 400 thou valve lift. Crow Cams do the 63602 cam and Az could probably offer a Clay Smith grind similar. Possibly there are Argentinian cams available with similar grinds to the Oz ones.

Your checklist is collets, retainers, springs, seals, timing set, "cam change" gasket kit, lifters, dizzy gear and the cam. Use springs recommended by the grinder and confirm they don't bind.

A warmed over six never feels like an eight so your pal still won't be happy. That's OK because he won't ask to borrow your car. You could also save the original cam for a blower grind core, in case you find a pressure feeder.
 
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