what plug wires you like

[Anonymous]

Ok I have not been having good luck with ACCEL supression wires. I have a DS2 with 40,000 volt Accel coil running .050 plug gap. 9.7 CR and lots of go goodies -headers 3 carbs etc. Car runs great BUT i get an intermittent problem with rough idle and acceleration hesitation which always traces back to plug wire failure. Open the hood in the dark with it running and everyt time I have a problem there is a wire arcing, replace it and it runs great for a few days then it happens again--Have rerouted wires for better isolation but now i have no spare wires left so am going to go with a new set, also have developed a small arcing inside the dizzy cap/rotor button.(can actually see it reflected on the vac adv arm, not real noticeable but there nonetheless) Ready to bite the bullet and buy some real stuff- what product line do i need to check out.

 

[jamyers]

Whatever brand you get, go with a spiral-wound core.

Bosch is good, and available here through O'Reillys Auto parts. I got a set last week for about $30, iirc.
MSD wires are very good, available through Summit. Probably more pricey than the Bosch, I didn't price them for a 6, but a set for a big V8 ran me $75.

 

[Anonymous]

I'm running Accel 8.8 mm wires and have never had a problem with them

Later,

Doug

 

[wallaka]

Yellow ones

I'm running Accel 8.8's too, but I've got a stock ignition system. Nevertheless, my Dad reports no problems (except for having to file the points every time he cranks The Comet).

 

[blueroo]

I've heard of problems with Accel but aside from me not installing them properly, I've never had a problem.

I'm not sure if there's really a big difference, but instead of getting the typical off the shelf accels, I special ordered mine for the six. The wires are a bit too short to do a really nice "loom" setup though.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Taylor on the racecar, FRPP on the Mustang, Ford OEM on the truck (I should probably change them eventually) and the Escort (the plug wires are worn out, that means it's time to trade it)

 

[Lazy JW]

... also have developed a small arcing inside the dizzy cap/rotor button.(can actually see it reflected on the vac adv arm, not real noticeable but there nonetheless)...

Quite some time back someone posted about finding thier distributor cap having the terminals improperly located. You might take good close look at both your cap and rotor.

You obviously have something in your secondary circuit causing excessively high resistance, causing the spark to find an easier route to ground. Good quality plug wires are certainly a good place to start.

Also, check to make sure that the rotor is the correct length. If there is too much gap to the cap terminals it will require more voltage to jump the gap, maybe more than the wires can hold.

Joe

 

[Anonymous]

You obviously have something in your secondary circuit causing excessively high resistance, causing the spark to find an easier route to ground. Good quality plug wires are certainly a good place to start.

I think my first problem was an overactive need for a neat wire/loom routeing resulting in wire ends being too close to metal and/or other wires causeing an arc situation--compounded by .50 plug gap and big coil. so i am just going to start from scratch and make sure i have the right angle caps for the arrangement i want (45*).
I also had a plug wire that was not pushed down tight for a day or two which probally accounts for the rotor button lasting a whole 500 miles--replaced it the other day and all is fine in the cap now. Looked at a hi-dollar($36) dizzy cap at Napa the other day and it was the same exact cap i gave O'Reily's $10 for. So cleaned the dizzy cap changed the rotor and everything is doing fine--just don't like the wire arrangement and wanted opinions on brands- I like FSPP wires but want more flexability on "Lomming"--like that term Blueroo
Thanks all Dan

 

[blueroo]

I did have a dizzy cap/plug wire terminal problem. Not thinking when I first put the plug wires on the cap, I didn't pull the wire terminals through the end of the boot so there was a nice space between the wires and cap contact points. The #3 cap tower is slightly warped. So I may be the one Lazy JW is talking about.
But yes, it can cause problems....ie ignition break up

 

[rbohm]

8) i have never used accel wires, i usually use msd spiral core wires, but i think part of the problem is the supression core wires themselves. i have yet to use supression core wires that i like from any manufacturer.

 

[jamyers]

...Also, check to make sure that the rotor is the correct length. If there is too much gap to the cap terminals it will require more voltage to jump the gap, maybe more than the wires can hold.

Not to hijack this thread, but any distributor ignition makes the plug secondary current jump 2 gaps - one in the distributor and one across the plugs. Inductive ignition system (points, Pertronix, Duraspark, GM HEI, etc), the coil has to work harder to generate the voltage needed to jump the gap, which works both for you (higher voltage and more "compressed" spark) and against you (hotter coil, more arcing in the dist. cap, shorter wire, cap and rotor life.)

I don't know about Ford, but GM used rotors with shorter tips on purpose for emissions (they have an "E" on them, and usually in the part number). The idea was to increase the gap between the rotor and cap terminal to get the higher voltage to fire across bigger plug gaps and reduce emissions. It works, but at the expense of arced rotors, caps, and overheated coils. GM guys "in the know" avoid the "E" rotors like the plague.

Does Ford have short-tip rotors like that on purpose?

 

[Billr57]

This is what I'm using with no problems at all.....Taylor 73251 Spiro Pro Univ 80 Degree Spark Plug Wires

 

[mustang652]

This is what I'm using with no problems at all.....Taylor 73251 Spiro Pro Univ 80 Degree Spark Plug Wires

In the process of doing the Dizzy II at present and my compliments, that is one of the nicest looking setup on the wires I've seen. I copied the photo to file the last time you posted it to use for my upcomming set up. Three questions, Where do I get them , and can I get it in black. and what did you have to pay

 

[Anonymous]

Ok I have not been having good luck with ACCEL supression wires.

Neither have I, I have have had bad wires right out of the box!! :x

i usually use msd spiral core wires.

Great wires....Taylor Spiro Pro are also favorites of mine! :2thumbsup:

any distributor ignition makes the plug current jump 2 gaps - one in the distributor and one across the plugs.....Does Ford have short-tip rotors like that on purpose?

I have noticed the gap is usually between .080" and .100" !!!!!! :x :x

I modify my rotors by removing the rotor tip and moving it towards the cap terminals. Anyone want pix?

.

 

[Lazy JW]

I have noticed the gap is usually between .080" and .100" !!!!!! :x :x

I modify my rotors by removing the rotor tip and moving it towards the cap terminals. Anyone want pix?

.

Please!
Joe

 

[Billr57]

mustang652, I got these at the local Speed Shop "Winners Circle" here, but I would bet you can get them from Jegs or Summit. I think they run around $55 - $60. Hope this helps you out.
Bill

 

[mustang652]

Billr57,

Yes, it does help and thanks for the info. I use the car as much for show and to convince owners to stick with the I6, as for go. I've been allowed to put it on display in the local Motor Trend Show at the LV Convention Center for the past three years so insuring that what I do looks decent matters quite a bit.

 

[hasa68mustang]

I have been runnign 8mm accel "high energy supression cables" for a little over a year now with no problems....