What size is it?

saltwaterfalcon1960

Well-known member
I am sure this question has been asked before,but couldn`t find exactly what I need,so here goes.I was told you guys would know the answer ,if there is one.
I bought a 6cyl today.It was in 1967 mustang.Man said he did not know if it was original engine.
Had 240 cubic inches sticker on air cleaner.He said he did not think that was original air cleaner.
I need to know what size it is.
Here are the casting numbers,Block is C6DE-6015-A, Head is C6DE-6090-B, Distributor is C5UF-12127-J, Exhaust,C5UE.It has 3 bolts in water pump and 3 freeze plugs on exhaust side of block.
Could this engine be a 170?
Any way to tell exactly what size it is? Thanks
 
If you are counting only the freeze plugs that you see. Then there are two more towards the rear of the engine. You can't see those two because of the exhaust pipe and starter. 5 freeze plugs means it a 200 ci six. 3 freeze plugs means it's a 170 ci six.
 
Howdy Saltwater Falcon:

"Here are the casting numbers,"
Block is C6DE-6015-A,"

A- the C6DE casting code was used on both 170s and 200s in 1966 & '67.

"Head is C6DE-6090-B,"

Answer- The same is true for this head. Also check to see if this is a Calif. smog head. It will have taps into the exhaust port for the thermactor air injections system. Not a good head for performance.

"Distributor is C5UF-12127-J,"

Answer- This should be a "Load-a-matic" distributor used from 1965 to the change over to sometime in 1967. It should not be on a '66 Calif Smog engine. Most likely someone has mixed and matched parts in putting this engine together. But it is not entirely out of the realm of possibility that FoMoCo did this to empty a bin.

"Exhaust,C5UE."

Answer- This is a '65 casting used until some where in '68 when more attachments and bungs were needed for other stuff. If it is not cracked or badly warpped this is a good casting.


"It has 3 bolts in water pump and 3 freeze plugs on exhaust side of block.
Could this engine be a 170?"

Answer- Yes, if it only has three freeze plugs it is a 170. Look closely for the front and rear plugs. They are sometimes hard to see.

"Any way to tell exactly what size it is?"

Answer- the final test is to remove the number one sprk plug and rotate the engine so that the #1 piston is at the top. Look into the hole, if you see a dished piston it is a 200. If you see a flat-topped piston it is a 170.

I hope that helps to solve this puzzle.

Adios, David
 
HI, I have the engine in my shop and I checked the pistons thru spark plug hole.They appear to be dished,it has a raised ring around outside top of piston.Is this a dished piston?
It also has just 3 freeze plugs,I removed starter and exhaust to have a good look.
I noticed a code stamped into block on flat spot just above where the crankcase vent tube came out on the earlier models.It is 5H17B or 5H17R,
The last letter of code wasn`t stamped to clear.Can`t tell if it is B or R.
Does this info give any more clues to engine size?
Could it be something other than a 170 or 200?
thanks
 
a simple yet oft over looked item is that 170's came with red/orangish paint and 200's came in traditional ford blue. Of course it's pretty easy to paint a red valve cover or oil pan blue--but not often done well enough to convince anyone really looking.
 
The 170 that came in the 1970 Maverick was blue with 5 frost plugs.
 
According to a recent Mustangs Monthly magazine article, '65 Mustangs with a 200 are also supposed to have Red (not blue) air cleaner and valve cover. Blue started in '66 for the 200. Color doesn't *appear* to be much help. I'm in the process of putting my stuff back to the original colors because I assumed "Ford Blue" when I put the car together the first time 20+ years ago. Now I've got 2 coats of paint to remove. :)

I don't believe a 170 was available in a Mustang after the original 64 1/2 model "year".
 
well since the engine is out -how about simply taking off the oil pan and measureing the stroke. http://falconperformance.sundog.net/facts.asp here's all the specs. In the early 70's where i was living you could go to a junk yard and buy a good running small6 with under 40K on it for $50 top --pull it and go. Thus a lot of mixing and matching was done. We seldom rebuilt engines back then--it was easier and cheaper to find a low mileage wreck or rust bucket and swap.
 
danwagon":h7lu26hz said:
well since the engine is out -how about simply taking off the oil pan and measureing the stroke. http://falconperformance.sundog.net/facts.asp here's all the specs. In the early 70's where i was living you could go to a junk yard and buy a good running small6 with under 40K on it for $50 top --pull it and go. Thus a lot of mixing and matching was done. We seldom rebuilt engines back then--it was easier and cheaper to find a low mileage wreck or rust bucket and swap.


It's the same today. Some 11 second turbo 79-86 Falcons in Aussie are using ex Taxi engines with a re-ring, blister pack bearings and huge turbo boost.
 
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