What's next?

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Well my car is still a mess but my dad and I just installed our newly rebuilt 170...it isn't as strong as I hoped for. The carb looks akward (sits sideways and the opening on the intake is larger then that of the carb itself. He was wondering if a 2 barrell could be adapted to it to open up the top end a little. Also the C4 auto is getting crappier by the day. Should I pay the money to have it freshened up or do a T5 install. The thing is I don't have much money to speak for. I will be getting a job soon making minimum wage which is $5.15 or possibly $7 if they pass the new legislature. but i need the following done....

Paint job
New carpet and interior paint (audio can be put aside for now)
New dash pad
Power steering swap
power brake booster
I would like to go five lug to add some Torque Thrust II wheels...
New exhaust
either a 2 barrell or bigger 1 barrell

So what should come first and what should I do about the carbeurator and tranny. Any input would be helpful
Keep in mind I only have a few hundred saved up and this is not a daily driver, it's my ONLY driver.
 
If the C4 is failing, that should be the highest priority. You should be able to get it rebuilt or replaced for a couple hundred (or buy a rebuild kit and do it yourself).

I've been looking into T5 swaps, and it looks like even using a used T5, the project will cost almost a thousand dollars. Remember, going from a C4 to a T5, besides the regular T5 kit, you will need the entire clutch assembly including the peddle, plus the bellhousing, and probably the driveshaft cut.

If cost is the major factor and this is your only vehicle I'd just get the C4 fixed and see what's left.


Kris
 
Hi,

I'll take a shot at this for ya 65ss. Yes you can get an adaptor to mount a two barrel carb. Check out Clifford performance. Two barrel Holley Weber available from Stovebolt engines.

You also need to look at your ignition set-up too. The older sixs with the load-a-matic diistributor (dizzy) work hand in hand with the carbs spark control module. If you have the older dizzy you would have issues with the change. I would suggest you get a good one barrel designed to work with your engine, make sure it is in good shape and "tuned" properly.

On a tight budget:

Autolite 1100 carb, rebuilt and properly tuned
Dizzy with both vacuum and mechanical advance
Pertronix electronic module to replace points
2.25" single out exhaust with turbo style muffler
Do a fresh tune-up and set timing 10 degrees BTDC
K & N filter to fit your stock air cleaner

However it sounds as you might need to start with getting a good working tranny first. A T-5 install can be done on a car with a 3 spd manual tranny to begin with for about 800 to 1000 bucks. I don't know how much more would be involved going from auto to manual. I'm not sure how much it would cost to "freshen" yours up but that might be your best option.

Why do you want to swap to P/S? I would stick with manual steering. I have power now but I may switch. Less to break, less power being sucked from the engine, IMHO less in this case is better. But that is up to you and your preferences.

The swap to five lug wheels is very involved and can't be done right on the cheap. There are some nice wheels available for the 4 lug cars though. Check out Summitt and on E-Bay search for Datsun wheels. Our wheel pattern is 4 x 4.5". Backspacing from 3" to 4.5 or so, according to tire size, if you drive a Stang.

I'm sure more experienced members will be along shortly with better more detailed info but you can chew on this while you daydream the build of your desires.

Bob
 
The carb for the 170 might not be giving you enough air. You could probably salvage an 1100 or a YF or get one on E-bay. They are not too expensive and I find my 1100 is real peppy. If salvage, get rebuild kit and do it yourself. It's not very hard.
It's possible to rebuild a tranny yourself but you have the fluid disposal issues and it is fairly complex. You might be able to find a rebuilt with your old tranny as a core. I was reading somewhere, Hot Rod I think, that some guy was running nitrous with a six and a C4, so don't under-rate them.
Think about it this way: 1) get your car running, 2) get it running well.
You've done #1 so work your way up the dollar ladder on number two. The T5 needs a good plant ahead of it so start at the engine and work your way back. Course the old tranny might jump to the head of the line if it shells out so be ready to sink some bigger dough.
Keep reading. You'll get a lot of good tips here. It's like sitting on a porch with 2000 old-timers.
 
So what would a rebuilt carb, single out exhaust, and a rebild for the tranny cost me realitically. I will be getting the electronic ignition soon. Anyone had trouble with them failing or do they still crank smoothly?Thanks for all the replies.

Josh
 
Howdy Josh:

You've already gotten some good advice here, But let me add my two cents. Since you're working on a very limited budget and may have somewhat limited skills as well, I'd suggest that you start by doing alot of reading here and then investing in a shop manual at about $50.00 and read it through too.

Next assess what you have. You said that the carb hole was larger then the carbs throttle bore. What are the casting # on the Head. They are located on the top of the intake log, behind the carb pad. You may have the wrong carb adaptor. Do you still have the stock, mechanical throttle linkage?

Who did the rebuild? Do you have a spec sheet on what machining was done?

Stock initial advance setting for a '65 200 with a C4 is 12 degrees. Try 15 for a noticiable increase in Power and economy.

Are you going to an electronic ignition by adding a PetroniX to your stock '65 distributor? Know that your Stock '65 carb and distributor are designed to work together. It is called the "Load-A-Matic" distributor and it receives a modified, vacuum signal from the Spark Control Valve in the carb that is load sensitive. When working as designed it is fairly effective.

Stepping up to an Autolite 1100 from a '65 200 will give you an increase of 35 cfm over your stock 170 carb. The 170s are rated at 150 cfm, while the 200s are rated at 185 cfm. Externally they look identical. The difference is in the diameter of the venturi inside the carb throat.

A rebuilt carb will range in price depending on the retailer. Call several for the most accurate pricing in your area. Same is true for an exhaust upgrade and a tranny rebuild. At a minimum, you will want a 2" system with a Turbo type muffler. Quality costs. "The bitterness of low quality will last long after the sweetness of low price has gone." It does pay to shop around though.

What are the symptoms of the C4?

Finally, the best single upgrade you can do is to install a 200. If that is a long term goal, plan all of your upgrades now so that they will be in place when you can upgrade to the larger block.

Enjoy the journey.

Adios, David
 
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