XP Falcon 221 2V

[Anonymous]

This is my first post so forgive me if this has been covered before. I have an XP Falcon with a 221 in that has been bored 40 tho over (according to the stamp on the pistons) and thats all the mods so far. I have a 2V head sitting at home and I would like to fit this to my bottom end. Can I simply fit the new head in place of the standard or do internal engine things have to be changed like the pushrods? What would be the best carby to use on this engine (I will also be changing the cam soon as well)? I have the standard 2brl already (needs to be rebuilt) and I was wondering if a 2brl webber from an XF would give an improvement when the new head is fitted (anyone know what size the XF webber is)? Also can I use regular pre-crossflow extractors (for an XP) on the 2V head or will I need custom ones? Is there an electronic ignition kit available? I was told an XE or XF distributor and parts can be used but I don't know if this is true. Sorry for all the questions but you guys seem to know everything about these engines.

 

[addo]

First up, the ignition:
•You are best off with an XE distributor and new Bosch coil to suit.
•The distributor should be rebuilt with the marginally (0.4mm) larger shaft to suit the 221 block. I have just slotted them in no worries, but refuse to recommend a casual approach.
•If you are changing the cam for new (billet grind), you MUST fit an aftermarket dizzy gear. Failing to do so will destroy the existing gear. the new, genuine, Ford ones will not live either.
•The dizzy should be recurved for (a.) the fuel, (b.) the cam, and (c.) the gearing.

Exhaust:
•The exhaust face of the head is often badly eroded due to gasket leaks. Make sure it is flat and clean before installation. It'll cost $40-$70 to have it milled dead smooth.
•Also required is the specific 2V exhaust gasket set. Centre ports are not as tall, and will leak with a regular gasket. Look for the ACL gasket set for a 2V.
•You need headers (extractors) that fit in an early Falcon (XK-XP). Later like XY-XB will not work due to hitting the sides of the bay. You must fit them with the head removed or they won't go in.
•Fit some in good nick. No point going to all that effort to fit rusty leaky ones.
•Obtain either the Factory style locking washers with fold up tabs or "stage 8" locking bolts for the attachment. Torque to spec, drive ½H, retorque while warm (not hot, just warm). This applies to either system.

As to bolting the head on, yes it will fit but you need to really work out your effective static compression. This will also influence your later choice of cam. You need to know the deck height, piston dish, chamber volume and gasket thickness once squashed down (measure old one). With these figures, you can calculate the static compression and plan properly. Re-use your rocker gear or the ones off the 2V head. Assemble it with assembly lube on the tops of the valves and both ends of the pushrods, to allow wearing in of any slight mismatches. The existing pushrods should be fine if unbent.

For carbs you need a synchronous carb - one where both throats open at once. The WW isn't as bad as folks think, and a 350 Holley is a waste of time. A 500 Holley or the Barry Grant version might be in your sights if you cam up. Another option is the Stromberg (I think) 2 hole carb off a late '60s Val 225. It's simpler than the WW, so easier to rebuild. Cruise the Mopar Market to find one cheap. It's a bolt-on while Holleys require a $32 adaptor and have clearance issues.

Got you started?

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for that info. If I go to the wreakers and get an XE distributor will I have to get any other parts to go with it (not including the new coil you mentioned) and is it difficult to wire up? With regards to the larger shaft can the one from the 221 distributor be used or will the XE one need to be modified (sorry if that sounds like a silly question)? You mentioned aftermarket dizzy gear is this readily available, and if so from where? I'm not exactly sure how to measure the static compression ratio so once again sorry if this is a silly question, but can this be measured once the head is of the engine or will the engine need to be completly stripped down? Either way I assume an engine reconditioner would be able to check this and what sort of ratio should I be looking for?

 

[addo]

For the combustion chamber issues, try cutting and pasting this link (won't work directly). Ideally, 9.3:1 compression is good; not much more though.

http://www.inlinepages.com/~inlinefever ... tions.html

Quite easy to do it yourself. You can get good big syringes from vets or boatbuilding supplies (used for epoxy resins) if the vets won't sell 'em. For a small bit of perspex, maybe try a picture framers?

The distributor gear comes from Crow. It's retail is about $75, but you'll be unlucky to pay that. There are 2 sizes, one each for the large and small shafts.

The distributor itself needs professional attention for the shaft swap. They can use the 221 unit as a "donor" for the shaft. At the same time, they rebush it and overhaul the unit. I'll send you some details of where to get it done. You need to supply 12V, not six for the new rig. This is easy enough if you use a 6V switched relay to power a nice new 10A wire to the ignition. Current draw is higher than original, but spark is way ahead. Plug gaps of 50 thou are good!

If you buy one from the wreckers, make sure they guarantee it works. The control modules fail now and then. New genuine is $75 for this part, the copy one is junk. Every dumped '80s Magna or Corolla you see, steal the module. Keep a spare in the car. It's the size of a matchbox. Also you need the XE style cap spacer with correct length clips, cap and rotor. The wiring should be intact back to where it connects on the coil - check for cracking where the lead exits the distributor body. The lead set will be assorted lengths off the shelf, not a ready made kit.

Main reason you need a new coil is the Bosch ones that came with the XE are oil filled, and the wreckers fail to store them upright. The oil leaks out and the unit may overheat in use. Bosch sell the HEC-716 at about $55, which is a pretty sexy looking electronic coil.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks heaps for those links I will have a go at measuring it in the next few days (after my escort gets registered). Is the electronic ignition a cost effective mod for increased power or would I be better spending money on other parts first (intalling the 2V head, extractors and exhaust, carby, etc)? What is the best 4 speed manual gearbox to use (preferably something that will bolt straight in and easily available) I assume that I can't simply use one from an XF or XE?

 

[addo]

The gearbox you want is a BW single rail. Different cars had different ratios in them. Bellhousings are common enough; one off a later Falcon will work, with a hydraulic clutch conversion (the XP is set up for it on the firewall but there is a little fooling about). Make sure you get the inspection cover and sandwich plate if you don't have one already. If you can get the full Toyota 5 speed swap used it is good value. The kit new is about $2000 - that's $1500 too much!

I like the electronic ignition because it can be felt straight away under your foot. Theoretically it saves fuel, if you don't use the extra "zip" for hooning. Extractors basically add next to nothing on their own, but you can't run a cast manifold on the 2V.

Leave the carby until later. You'll find enough supply of WW units from tragics who pulled them from 253s and the like because they think the carb is inferior. A really good running one might cost $50. And there's the option of the slant six carb, too.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[aussie7mains]

The 2v head has a very similar combustion chamber to the 188/221 head so I wouldnt go worrying about the CR too much.
The centre exhaust port on the 2v head is different to the 1v, its lower as stated, but its easy enough to make a gasket that right for it, and I will help if you divide the port with a shaped piece of 12mm MS plate welded in, then you can make a gasket to divide the exhaust into two groups of 3, which works best with sixes.
A word of warning, the standard intake manifold will almost certenly clash with the RHS suspension tower, you may need to cut the manifold a lttle for clearance and perhaps slot the engine mountings to lean the engine over a tiny bit to get room. From my experience with 250-2v in XPs they clear but only just, and the 221 block beaing lower might be worse, so look out for it.
The best BW single rail is the earlier V8 with the 3.06 first gear there are lower sets in later cars but they dont work as well.
A7M

 

[Anonymous]

Will a single rail from any model fit up to the 221 block or will I need to get one with a bell housing (i think thats what its called) to suit? Would the single rail from a 2ltr escort fit (i assume not) as someone said they are the same or similar to those fitted to a falcon? Will the auto tailshaft be the right length or will I need a manual one?

 

[aussie7mains]

The single rail tranny behind escorts and four cylinder cortinas is NOT for you.
You want the larger and heavier BW single rail used in falcons and six cylinder cortinas from 72 thru to 88.
The bellhousing is easy all the sixes are the same, except when it comes to clutch actuation, later units are cable, so you will need the earlier one with hydraulic, XA-XC.
Do you have a manual flywheel, as its different to the later 200-250 six?
A cable clutch could be adapted up but will require some fabrication skills.
A7M

 

[Anonymous]

I don't have the fly wheel will it be hard to get or can another one be modified to suit?

 

[addo]

I've maybe got an excess one, or Danny Z will be able to post one from Melbourne. Typical cost (what I have paid) is $90 for one with good ring gear and never skimmed. They are heavy - postage will bite!