Help lol

xrwagon

xrwagon

Well-known member
ok so i have my motor out, its on my crane, i replaced the neoprene seal, i have done the main cap half, i loosened off all the mains and the crank came down about 4 ml to chase this seal in with crank still in, i have managed to get the seal in, i was going to retorque the mains before i trim the seal as it may pull another couple of ml out, i thought the seal was easy to cut, has a metal band inside, i only have the flange width to work in to cut it off, anyone help or how did they do this before, i need a nice effective cut. next time i’ll do this on a stand, but i don’t have a stand yet, i thought this was going to be easier
 
:unsure: The neoprene seals don't get cut they are made to fit right in a clean main seal grove and off set one of the ends about 1/8 to a quarter past the block parting line. Now on the other hand a rope seal would get cut with a razor blade even with the block parting line. So which seal are you using? Good luck :nod:
 
mine is a 2 piece neoprene, it overlaps both ends as its a Windsor one, thats why it needs cutting, was same part number where i live for 200 six as Windsor, not a chance of offsetting it, i think i am setting myself up to fail miserably on this one
 
Like bubba said, the neoprene seal doesn't need trimming. The Felpro part# for the 200 is BS30135 afaik it has no other applications than for the small six. Corteco # 17042, National # 5116

For the 250 it' Felpro #BS30136 which is interchangable with other engines. Sounds like you may have gotten the 250 seal.
 
i am running out of time to finish this motor off, pulling it down won’t work, if i have anything else that needs doing i don’t have the cash to do it, sounds like my parts guy has mucked it up
 
i just checked, yep wrong seal i have been sold, twice now, cause i stuffed up the first one.
 
If you can locate the right number seal in your area it will side right in without disassembling the short block any more then you have already done. If you want to chance cutting down that seal, put it in the rear main cap and carefully use a hack saw to cut even with parting line then touch it up with a fine tooth file and put a small dab of sealer on each end. No telling if its actually going to work or not until you try it and personally i think it would be quite risky if it's made for a larger main Dia. crankshaft. Otherwise If you can't get the right seal and you need it back together quickly then you should probably go back to a rope seal they will last for quite awhile. Good luck :nod:
 
yeah thanks Bubba, i am going down to a parts store now, i’ll take the main cap with me, i’ll repeat the process i did, i have chonic illness so i spent most of the day stuffed after torquing up 52 times early this morning, Chronic Fatigue Syndrome, beats the crap out of me everyday. i’ll get there just very disappointed, i tried cutting the seal i stuffed up in 3 different methods, none of them give a nice cut apart from a 4” cut off wheel, my flywheels still attached, so that won’t be happening
 
:banghead: Sorry to hear that xrwagon, hope that you find the right seal and you are able to get it back together without any more trouble. Best of luck :nod:
 
Our only parts supplier in Australia for these seals is Precision International, the seal they list is wrong, so my engine guy went off there wrong listing, so all the parts guys order from this manufacturer.
 
Econoline gave some seal part numbers in his above post. And here is another listing (from Rock Auto see below link) showing a Victor Reniz seal for a 1980 Ford Fairmont 3.3L (200) it also shows the original Ford part number (from 1969) C9AE6701B in the interchange info it maybe of some help to cross reference it to other brands. Good luck :nod:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1127629
 
Summit have them and ship to Australia, only problem is they won’t process the order on Friday as its international, and its a public holiday in the USA on Monday, so it won’t leave Summit until Tuesday which is Wednesday here, i won’t be racing the car now, it won’t be here in time for the six banger hats. could anyone help me out today by sending one to me, i can pay you through pay pal etc
 
There is quite a time difference between us but, I can try and get you one sent out today if you want PM me with your shipping info and your choice on the shipping. In this area there is UPS, Fedx, and USPS (U.S. Mail). :nod:
 
xrwagon":23wm7uc9 said:
Our only parts supplier in Australia for these seals is Precision International, the seal they list is wrong, so my engine guy went off there wrong listing, so all the parts guys order from this manufacturer.
Click to expand...

That's becasue in viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72342&p=555758#p555758 we told ya the Aussie 200 one was different.

xctasy":23wm7uc9 said:
No engine removal required. You've got the old rope seal, so its tough to get em out. Replace it with a neoprene Felpro or similar. Sizes vary, there are a different lenghts and sections, and some are cut to fit, which can be a pain. A note only for us AuNZies...the little 200 used a 2.75" pitch six bolt center flange with a 3.625" crank out diameter flange before the big tall deck change to the 250 based block in 1971 Aussie FoulCans. Don't let some counter wally give you the later XY/XA/XB non cross flow 200/250 item.
Click to expand...


Azza, you'll get there bro. The team here will see you right. CF is not nice, I have realtives with it.
 
:unsure: Xctasy, so dose the Aus. 200 (XR) log head motors use a different seal number then the US 200 block?
 
bubba22349":2kfz8wwk said:
:unsure: Xctasy, so dose the Aus. 200 (XR) log head motors use a different seal number then the US 200 block?
Click to expand...


No diiference at all, its exactly the same as the US one. Any 1960 to 1970 144/170/188/200/221 Aussie item will be the same as the 1960 to 1983 US 144/170/200.

The 250 and our 1971 to 1992 200 engines generally ran the variants of the US 250 seal.

Just don't let some nong try and sell you a Windsor or tall deck XY to early XF item, they aren't gonna a work on an early 200, and I doubt you can trim them back.
 
Ok that's what I though for the old log head motors they shared the sizes of the US blocks.
 
Looks like it was up to me to find the parts catalogues stuff ups, the major distributor of parts over here to Engine shops and auto parts stores has the wrong product code for a 200 pre, when you order they send a 250 pre, obvious difference of about 15-20mm, i juts thought my engine guy had stuffed up until i got on the computer and found out myself, so down here we have BS30136’s and no BS30135’s because the BS30136’s are being sold to 200 owners. I would never had thought i would have been ordering from the states for a seal. I got one from 123Auto parts, i rather Summit as i have friends that get stuff in 4 days, but they would not send till Tuesday which is Wednesday here. I have a tracking number for my seal. Its been dispatched as of yesterday so its in transit. If it gets here in time i will have a mad thrash to get my car to The Six Banger Nats, where i am the reigning class winner from last year. Giddy up
 
can’t be trimmed Xtasy, it will leave the high tensile ring exposed, and yes some hong sold me a Windsor 250 one as its listed here to suit 200, that was the major issue i have found and one large company supplies all the stores Prescion International
 
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